Another 3.6 thread… bulletproofing?

[ajbarbier]

I just bought a 2018 sport and I’m in love with it. Trying to take preventative measures to make sure I don’t develop lifter tick or anything involving coolant issues. I already know I have a small leak already- so that begs the question: what can be done preventatively to keep the engine healthy? I know the 3.6 can be very reliable. I also know it can be very unreliable.

So far what I have is-
Aluminum oil filter housing
Rpm fan controller
Baxter oil drain back.

Let me know what else?

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[bd100]

Mopar new version oil filter housing.
Change oil every 5K miles or so.
Keep up on the other fluid changes.
Enjoy!

 

[GabeBoyTheGreat]

Make sure to do WOT runs every once in a while.

 

[Richard_JL]

Mopar new version oil filter housing.
Change oil every 5K miles or so.
Keep up on the other fluid changes.
Enjoy!

I may be behind on this, but isn't the 'new' Mopar oil filter housing just as crap as the old one (made of plastic)?
The OP indicated he is using a new aluminum one (hopefully good brand).

 

[bd100]

I may be behind on this, but isn't the 'new' Mopar oil filter housing just as crap as the old one (made of plastic)?
The OP indicated he is using a new aluminum one (hopefully good brand).

Better seal design instead of the figure 8 seals.

 

[c20040215]

I may be behind on this, but isn't the 'new' Mopar oil filter housing just as crap as the old one (made of plastic)?
The OP indicated he is using a new aluminum one (hopefully good brand).

The oil leaking is caused by the poor o-ring design. The cracking is caused by over tighten the filter. None of those are caused by it being plastic. I would go with the updated Mopar version. In my opinion, Dorman is where I would go when I run out of all options.

 

[garyji]

97K on mine, and it's been perfect. Oil changes every 5. I did the plugs at 90k and had them (my shop, not a dealer) put in the new design OEM oil filter housing just as a preventative. I do my own oil changes, so no oil monkey over torqued the housing.

Also just switched to Valvoline Restore & Protect. I use 0W-20 like the book says. I also do not agree with the WOT runs. Just why do it??

My GF's JK has had the same treatment and it's around 90K. (she did need a thermostat a little while back).

G.

 

[salt_crawler]

For me I strictly use PUP, top tier fuel, stay on top of fluid changes and basic maintenance. I also throw some fuel system cleaner every 3k. Keep start/stop off always. Nothing really else except drive and cross your fingers lol.

 

[Stetson]

Perform regular maintenance and have fun with it. Should last you a long long time!

 

[Riptide_JLU]

You are doing all the right things to try and mitigate things. I would say use a quality synthetic oil. Change it up to 5-30w during non freezing conditions. Everyone has their favorite, mine is AMSOIL and am at 94k with no issues/leaks.

 

[OminousSkitter]

I just bought a 2018 sport and I’m in love with it. Trying to take preventative measures to make sure I don’t develop lifter tick or anything involving coolant issues. I already know I have a small leak already- so that begs the question: what can be done preventatively to keep the engine healthy? I know the 3.6 can be very reliable. I also know it can be very unreliable.

How many miles are already on it? Know its maintenance history?

The only thing I'd add is a theory behind the blown head gaskets is the bolts are under-torqued from the factory. You might want to check those.

 

[ajbarbier]

How many miles are already on it? Know its maintenance history?

The only thing I'd add is a theory behind the blown head gaskets is the bolts are under-torqued from the factory. You might want to check those.

How would you go about that? Remove the intake plenum?

33,000 miles. Carfax maintenance history showed oil changes every 3-6k. Looked pretty good. Suffered from the galvanizing bs on the doors.

 

[OminousSkitter]

How would you go about that? Remove the intake plenum?

Honestly, it's just something I've thought about but haven't looked into. Looking online, it doesn't look like it's a simple "check the torque values" because it's a torque + angle for the final step [Page 9]. There are some other guys here that are way more qualified to answer this than I, and it might not be a practical preventative thing to do.

Edit: I don't have any tech/service manuals, so I can't verify the procedure there—just that linked NHTSA bulletin.

 

[bmpcamry09]

-5W30 full syn oil changes every 5,000 miles max
-Spill and fill trans, t-case, and diffs every 30k
-Drive it hard, these engines gunk up if they don’t get run hard
-Run 89 octane minimum, these pull timing and ping and knock on 87 especially in hot weather
-Consider getting a tune to have VVL and cam timing manipulated, the high lift function of VVL is not used for power and it is a very harsh engagement on the cam shaft and I have reason to believe it contributes to cam lobe failure on these newer PUG units.

 

[James Westfall]

The only way to make it "bulletproof" is to redesign the valvetrain oiling system. That's the thing about the 3.6 - it has only one major, chronic issue...but it's not something that's preventable by using the "right" oil grade, or changing the oil sooner, or using premium fuel...etc. It's a design flaw and can't be easily fixed.

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