I rub as well. For now, I just don't turn too tight.Anyone running spacers with their JL Borahs? If so what brand and what thickness? I just installed 37s and getting some major rubbing at lock on my lower control arms. I have a Clayton lift btw. Even my 35s rubbed slightly at lock and flexed.
I was hoping to keep the tires as tucked as possible by going with the JL Borahs but it looks like that's not going to happen with the new 37s. I don't feel like going through the hassle and expense of new wheels so spacers it is for now. I know I can remove a wheel and measure the stud and the relief pocket in the wheel but figure I'd ask here first.
You could try the JK spec since they are a bit pushed out more with their +4mm offsetAnyone running spacers with their JL Borahs? If so what brand and what thickness? I just installed 37s and getting some major rubbing at lock on my lower control arms. I have a Clayton lift btw. Even my 35s rubbed slightly at lock and flexed.
I was hoping to keep the tires as tucked as possible by going with the JL Borahs but it looks like that's not going to happen with the new 37s. I don't feel like going through the hassle and expense of new wheels so spacers it is for now. I know I can remove a wheel and measure the stud and the relief pocket in the wheel but figure I'd ask here first.
Yes I am I have the Accutune stage 4 and I had to use them I believe they are 1.5 SpyderAnyone running spacers with their JL Borahs? If so what brand and what thickness? I just installed 37s and getting some major rubbing at lock on my lower control arms. I have a Clayton lift btw. Even my 35s rubbed slightly at lock and flexed.
I was hoping to keep the tires as tucked as possible by going with the JL Borahs but it looks like that's not going to happen with the new 37s. I don't feel like going through the hassle and expense of new wheels so spacers it is for now. I know I can remove a wheel and measure the stud and the relief pocket in the wheel but figure I'd ask here first.
I hear ya. Unfortunately the Onyx colored wheels are the same price. The JK wheels will push it out .82" compared to the JL wheels. I blame the Clayton arms! Not that it's a bad thing. It's just that they are so damn beefy being made from 2" square tubing!You could try the JK spec since they are a bit pushed out more with their +4mm offset
I know you mentioned you are trying to avoid buying a new set but they are cheaper. You can probably break even or make a little bit of money selling your JL spec Borahs
JK or JL spec?I went with satin and I'm loving them. Just picked it up at AEV yesterday.
It's a JL370, so JL spec.JK or JL spec?
So those are the 37's?I went with satin and I'm loving them. Just picked it up at AEV yesterday.
Yep. The diesel, 37s, and 4.63 gears make a great combo. Light years ahead of my previous manual 3.6L JLUR with 4.10 gears.So those are the 37's?
I've got a 4xe coming. Can't exceed 4.5 on gear ratio. Wondering what the 4xe feels like with 37s and the 4.10.Yep. The diesel, 37s, and 4.63 gears make a great combo. Light years ahead of my previous manual 3.6L JLUR with 4.10 gears.
This is the best photo that shows what satin black actually looks like on a Jeep. I've searched everywhere.
Where did you find these black bolts?So I drilled out another one today, PITA. Had to tap the thread and replaced all bolts with grade 10.9 black bolts, now it is much less likely to broke, and I dig the black on onyx look.
You can see some of the AEV bolts I get out are already bent, that is how soft they are.