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Advice on lifting Jeep

GATORB8

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blnewt

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Just ask @cosine he knows!
LCAs, casters, Metalcloak, degrees, control arms...

Looks like I've got some homework to do :D
If you follow my install thread (assuming you're DIY inclined, which it sounds like you are) and include the longer LCAs your Jeep will track down the road better than it does now. Your caster will actually be a couple tenths of a degree higher than they would be prior to your lift.

My JL Sport S (2dr) which is 2" higher than stock and has the current cast iron steering box tracks down the road at 75 mph w/ just a finger on the wheel, I can no-hand it for the most part, but road ruts, crosswind etc, will require more attention.

If you can locate the heavier optioned Rubicon 4dr springs combined w/ 3/4" spacers all around and the longer Mopar LCAs you're talking about $300 give or take if you DIY the install. It takes about 2-3 hours w/ basic hand tools, no alignment would be needed since you won't be affecting the tie rod/drag link area.

Another plus to doing this and what @GeckoJosh correctly noted was a lift affecting potential future buyers. The beauty of going the Rubicon spring route is you're utilizing all factory parts. For the most part it won't really be noticeable to a potential buyer, even a service dept probably wouldn't even know you did a swap.

Also as far as screwing up steering geometry and overall driving performance, this setup doesn't involve any extra brackets, other steering components, etc. It's just a basic spring swap and LCA swap, just 6 parts total, easy-peasy!
 

Zandcwhite

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One thing I would be adamant about is to get it done professionally. Too many people think they are engineers and royally screw up the geometry on their Jeep leaving you with a rig that doesn't drive/ride right. Also if you plan on selling you will be knocked for mods made that compromised your Jeep and will have limited the amount of people who would possibly buy. I know this advice will probably piss off some of these guys but they all know.
Guess how many engineers are employed at your local dealer service department or off road shop? A mechanic is not an engineer or a wizard. Anybody who can bolt on parts can install a lift kit. The screwed up geometry comes from either an incomplete or improperly designed kit (often installed by “professionals”). Follow the directions, torque things to spec, if you bought a kit with adjustable arms be certain you set the lengths to the manufactureres recommendations. That is about the only place you could possibly mess up the geometry as the installer. If it’s mostly for looks I’d recommend LCA drop bracket up front as they ride better than longer arms (short of a full long arm kit). I’ve run a spacer lift and a spring lift, I’d go springs out the gate if I were you. Dynatracs lift kit gets great reviews on the budget friendly side of things and comes with longer LCA’s and fox shocks if you are looking for a 1 stop shop.
 

GATORB8

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You can worry yourself as long as you want reading posts about needing specific items to correct geometry and ride quality.

In reality the whole solid axle setup is basically modular. The hardest thing to install is the springs (and the bump stops that go inside the front ones). Everything else can be added from whatever company at a later date if you decide to.

Don't like how far your axle moved over, buy a track bar, 15 minute install on the ground.

Want more caster, front LCAs, maybe 30 minutes on the ground. (uppers or brackets would be a little more time consuming).

Decide to swap out the shocks, again 30 mins-an hour on the ground.

Nothing in the couple inch range from a decent company is going to make you drive off the road or completely ruin the ride.

Watch the Trail Recon lift kit comparison video on youtube. He puts 6 different kits on 6 stock Rubicons. You'll notice that some of the kits he likes best on road don't come with anything other than springs, shocks, and bumps.

Here's what I'd recommend:

1. Pick a tire size. Look at pictures of others rigs (tons of threads on here) or just look at Jeeps driving around and pick one. Identify here if you're going to do wheels and what offset/backspacing you like.
2. Pick a lift height that works with the tire size.

Then set a budget and go shopping.
 

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word302

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O.P. I like my Mopar engineered lift which has an excellent ride and works fine on trails less than extreme. It is not a complete kit and it does need front adj. LCA's for added castor, better steering. I also added a front Track bar and rear T.B. relocation bracket to get the body center over the chassis. But that is all you need with a Mopar lift to go and enjoy it to it's maximum. I run 37" tires without issue on trails rated up to extreme.
BTW, Some folks say the more expenseive , more flexy brands are complete. I 100% disagree. Add expensive driveshafts, fender liners and negative off set wheels.
Why stop there? They don’t include one-tons, winches, onboard air, or angry grilles either.
 

JeepJLU402

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Here are my 2 cents. I lifted my JLU Sport with the Dynatrac lift. I wanted to go with full 2.5” Metalcloak but it was going to add 4” to 4.5” where the Dynatrac only added 3.25”. I did add MC track bars and all the front control arms. The tire place screwed up and put 285/70 r17 tires on and while it would work they did look a little small. They fixed their mistake and put 285/75 r17 tires on and it looks great to me.

I guess what I’m saying is if you only want to go up to 33’s the go with Rubi takeoffs or something like the TeraFlex ST1 leveling spacers. If you go with 2” or 2.5” suspension lift you will need at least 34’s if not 35’s.
 
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jeepman1986

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Thanks again for all the advice. So from what I'm seeing, upgrading all 4 tires to 33"-35" is going to cost $1,000+, and then parts-wise, a minimal approach sounds like it might be <$500.

So does $1500 sound like a reasonable budget for something like this?
 
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jeepman1986

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I'm amazed at how many different opinions and approaches there are to this! I see soo many lifted Wranglers on the road. Ya'll must be a very mechanically inclined community :)
 

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Devil6Dog

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It is going to save you money to plan ahead and decide where you want to end up before you do anything. There are pros and cons to each modification:

Tire Size Increase:
Pros: Looks, Axle Clearance, Off Road Traction
Cons: More expensive, less effective power, reduction in mpg

Suspension Lift:
Pros: Looks, Frame clearance, fit bigger tires, likely increase in articulation depending on shocks.
Cons: Higher center of gravity, slight reduction in mpg, harder for short people to get in.

Body lift:
Pros: Fit bigger tires, normally cheaper than a suspension lift
Cons: Looks, you can accomplish the same thing with fenders, higher center of gravity, etc.

These are all incremental impacts, meaning the bigger you go, the more the pros and cons impact. Unfortunately, it tends to be like 2-foot-itis with boats, meaning if you get 33s, you'll want 35s, 35s you'll want 37s, and so on.

I'm currently looking at swapping out my 3k mile 35s for 37s and increasing lift from 2 to 3.5"
This is 100% accurate. I have 35's with 5k miles and already want 37's for some more clearance but waiting because worried I will want 39's but that creates a whole bunch of other upgrades.
 

c20040215

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This is 100% accurate. I have 35's with 5k miles and already want 37's for some more clearance but waiting because worried I will want 39's but that creates a whole bunch of other upgrades.
My 37s only looked big for about... 2 weeks. It never ends.
 

Roky

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I'm amazed at how many different opinions and approaches there are to this! I see soo many lifted Wranglers on the road. Ya'll must be a very mechanically inclined community :)
I can see it in your eyes, the Rubi takeoffs and spacers aren’t gonna cut it……..?
 

Devil6Dog

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My 37s only looked big for about... 2 weeks. It never ends.
I wheel with a group of about 15 jeeps once a month. Just when I think I move up from the smallest jeep in the pack everyone else gets bigger. It's almost like everyone is 2 steps ahead of me lol..
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