A basic wiring question...

[Opus]

I received some Nilight lights recently and I'm going to make my first foray into tying into the Aux switches. Each of the lights came with a 9 inch pigtail (not a euphemism) but no additional wiring. Am I correct that I need a spool of 14 gauge red/black wire rated for 12 volts? Anything else I should be looking for. Links appreciated or I'm fine doing my own legwork.

I've already got connectors, shrink wrap and a heat gun.

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[Vanburi]

https://badgeglow.com/product/simpleaux/

 

[Opus]

https://badgeglow.com/product/simpleaux/

Thanks for the link, but I've got the Aux switches and wiring for that already in the Jeep and the connectors to hook them up. All I'm needing is some additional wiring to mount the lights on the A-pillars and get them connected under the hood.

 

[Vanburi]

This goes under the hood to.make it easier to connect to the factory aux switches.

 

[Yawnie'sPapa]

Make your own terminal block for $10-$15. Get the terminal strip at Menards for about 7 bucks then make a mount for it.

I added a 12v outlet under the hood for a convenient place to plug in a Christmas wreath.

I always use marine type heat shrink. It has a glue in it that melts and seals the wires. Hey, Jeeps are for bad places and bad weather........
I use open barrel crimp connectors and the proper crimping tools for each.
When I join wires, I strip the ends, slide the heat shrink on, then joint the bare ends with a Western Union physical connection and then solder the joint, then heat shrink.

I made my terminal strip and bracket so I could very easily move things around, add or subtract things, whatever. I added the acrylic top to prevent anything from touching the terminals or screws. I can use a screwdriver to access the screws without removing the cover. You can lay things on it and nothing can touch the terminal strip or connections. Easy to disconnect something for troubleshooting if necessary. Have a problem? Loosen screw, remove that wire easily for testing. Can use a volt meter probe on the screws in case something isn't working and I want to check that it's got power.

The wire gauge you use for your lights will depend on the amps they will draw. I always use 14 volts as the voltage as when running things are never "just 12 volts".
If you know the wattage of the lights, divide that by 14 and you'll get the amperage. Then look up what gauge wire you need for xx amps.
You can ground them at any of the fender ground points - don't have to cross clear over to the battery for a ground. Use one of the ground studs located on either side of the engine bay at the fender.

Snow plow, bumper mounted backup lights for extra light when hooking up my trailer at night, winch solenoid, other electric stuff......... This is a Gladiator but the engine bay is the same, the electric accessories concepts, all the same.

 

[Opus]

Thank you for the info. It's helpful. Each light is 42 watts (3 amps), so I'm guessing 14 gauge (rated for 15 amps) will be more than enough.

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/TYUMEN-Elect...4d-b778b28f39b5&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m

 

[Dave928]

that'll work, or even the 16GA.

 

[Jeepeto]

Thank you for the info. It's helpful. Each light is 42 watts (3 amps), so I'm guessing 14 gauge (rated for 15 amps) will be more than enough.

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/TYUMEN-Elect...4d-b778b28f39b5&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m

14AWG is fine for this application. Be careful on long runs with 12v as voltage drop happens quick. Best practice is to check a voltage drop chart for 12v before running a new circuit.

Also of note, copper clad aluminum (the stuff in the Amazon link you posted) is prone to corrosion and can lead to electrical gremlins down the road. My local O’Riley’s stocks 100% copper stranded wire at a price point competitive to Amazon.

 

[Opus]

14AWG is fine for this application. Be careful on long runs with 12v as voltage drop happens quick. Best practice is to check a voltage drop chart for 12v before running a new circuit.

Also of note, copper clad aluminum (the stuff in the Amazon link you posted) is prone to corrosion and can lead to electrical gremlins down the road. My local O’Riley’s stocks 100% copper stranded wire at a price point competitive to Amazon.

Excellent info, thanks. The lights will be mounted one-each by the A-pillars, so the wiring run won't be too long. I'll look for some all-copper wire.

 

[Opus]

Did a little more reading and I see why CCA is not a good choice.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...black-14-gauge-copper-primary-wire/cti0/85718

This one lists copper, but I've also seen "tinned copper" listed for some wires. The tin is more for corrosion protection, right?

 

[GATORB8]

Excellent info, thanks. The lights will be mounted one-each by the A-pillars, so the wiring run won't be too long. I'll look for some all-copper wire.

FYI, I used the Amazon GS Power "pure copper" wires on the trailer. I think they offer CCA too, so just make sure you read the description.

 

[GATORB8]

Also, if the Nilights come with a Deutch connector on them, I'd look at getting an "extension" with that. It's nice to have some disconnection points.

 

[LostNotStuck-Yet]

​

This one lists copper, but I've also seen "tinned copper" listed for some wires. The tin is more for corrosion protection, right? You can trust these guys - they invest lots of time and effort into making sure that electrical connections are as reliable as possible-their illustrated workmanship guidelines for crimping wires can be found here: https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2 books/links/sections/201 General Requirements.html Some relevant language from that doc: Crimped Terminations Crimping is an efficient and highly reliable method to assemble and terminate conductors, and typically provides a stronger, more reliable termination method than that achieved by soldering SOLDER-TINNED STRANDED WIRE SOLID WIRE​ Crimping of solid wire, component leads, or stranded wire that has been solder-tinned, is prohibited. NASA-STD-8739.4 [4.3.4]

 

[Jeepeto]

Did a little more reading and I see why CCA is not a good choice.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...black-14-gauge-copper-primary-wire/cti0/85718

This one lists copper, but I've also seen "tinned copper" listed for some wires. The tin is more for corrosion protection, right?

Tinned copper sounds like it might be marketing speak for copper clad aluminum but I’m not entirely sure. I look for pure copper or OFC (oxygen free copper) if you can get your hands on the wire it’s usually pretty easy to tell. copper is usually heavier and if you can cut the end off the wire, if it's got silver in there I avoid it.

 

[CaJLMetalHead]

CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) is also problematic if you want to solder it.... stick to either Pure Copper... or Tinned Copper ....

Also.. the more strands (cores) the wire has.. the more flexible... but it also reduces the current capacity..

I also think 14 AWG is a bit overkill for your application.. you should be fine with 16 AWG... like this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BKGY9FLN/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A24LFDN3EFRMHH&th=1

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