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Noob wiring question.

WFRANCO

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Greetings guys. New Jeep owner here and wanted to add some lights to the rig. I recently bought some lights with separate leds and switch for the DRL. I’m using the factory aux switches that came stock with my Jeep. My question is can i combine the red(main light) and yellow wire (DRL) to one single power source? I only want to use one of my aux switches (15 AMP) to turn on/off both the main and DRL lights. I’m worried that if i combine both wires, i might burn out the DRL leds. Thanks in advance.

Jeep Wrangler JL Noob wiring question. IMG_6507
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You should be fine, but both will illuminate at the same time if you use just one switch.
 

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Greetings guys. New Jeep owner here and wanted to add some lights to the rig. I recently bought some lights with separate leds and switch for the DRL. I’m using the factory aux switches that came stock with my Jeep. My question is can i combine the red(main light) and yellow wire (DRL) to one single power source? I only want to use one of my aux switches (15 AMP) to turn on/off both the main and DRL lights. I’m worried that if i combine both wires, i might burn out the DRL leds. Thanks in advance.

IMG_6507.webp
Probably fine but do you know how many amps the main lights draw? Looks like a 12 ga wire?
 

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You could connect both to the Aux but it kinda defeats the purpose.

Just fuse tap the Backlights and run the main lights to Aux.

On my 2 Jeeps, I run the Backlight on an Aux and the main lights on a different Aux just in case I want to ever turn them off.
 

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Probably fine but do you know how many amps the main lights draw? Looks like a 12 ga wire?
I think I grabbed the right specs from the part of the box I saw. 168W is 14 AMPs at 12V, could be slightly less depending on the voltage they're rated at. I'd personally check out what fuse they came with, if it's 20 AMP, then OP should use Aux 1 or 2 which are 40 amp. If it's 15, probably safe with 3 or 4 which are 15 amp.



Specification:

Shape Size: 5 inch
Lamp Beads Model(Each): P8 5W/PCS*15+3030 SMD 9W
Power/Set: 84W * 2(Spotlights 75W+Amber DRL 9W)=168W
Total Lumens: 16440LM(15000LM+Amber DRL 1440LM)
Beam Pattern: Spot Light+Double-Side Shooter Light
Color Temperature: 6900K White/3000K Amber DRL
Light Distance: 1 LUX@598M
Light Color: White+Amber DRL
With EMC/EMI: Yes
Housing Material: Aluminum Alloy
Lens Material: PC
Life Time: 50000+ hours
Housing Color: Black
Waterproof Rate: IP68
Fit Model: Universal(M10 screw mounting)
Working Voltage: 12V-24V(Wiring harness Relay is 12V only, can be replaced with 24V)

https://auxbeam.com/products/2pcs-set-5-168w-side-shooter-led-pod-lights-with-amber-drl-combo-beam
 

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WFRANCO

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You should be fine, but both will illuminate at the same time if you use just one switch.
Thanks man. Yes i want to turn both on/off at the same time.
 
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WFRANCO

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I think I grabbed the right specs from the part of the box I saw. 168W is 14 AMPs at 12V, could be slightly less depending on the voltage they're rated at. I'd personally check out what fuse they came with, if it's 20 AMP, then OP should use Aux 1 or 2 which are 40 amp. If it's 15, probably safe with 3 or 4 which are 15 amp.



Specification:

Shape Size: 5 inch
Lamp Beads Model(Each): P8 5W/PCS*15+3030 SMD 9W
Power/Set: 84W * 2(Spotlights 75W+Amber DRL 9W)=168W
Total Lumens: 16440LM(15000LM+Amber DRL 1440LM)
Beam Pattern: Spot Light+Double-Side Shooter Light
Color Temperature: 6900K White/3000K Amber DRL
Light Distance: 1 LUX@598M
Light Color: White+Amber DRL
With EMC/EMI: Yes
Housing Material: Aluminum Alloy
Lens Material: PC
Life Time: 50000+ hours
Housing Color: Black
Waterproof Rate: IP68
Fit Model: Universal(M10 screw mounting)
Working Voltage: 12V-24V(Wiring harness Relay is 12V only, can be replaced with 24V)

https://auxbeam.com/products/2pcs-set-5-168w-side-shooter-led-pod-lights-with-amber-drl-combo-beam
Thanks dude. Yeah they came with a 20 amp fuse. Do you think i should connect them to aux 1 or 2? Right now it’s on aux 3. I’ll probably just fuse tap the DRLs as what @[B]ParadigmDawg[/B] suggested.
 
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WFRANCO

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You could connect both to the Aux but it kinda defeats the purpose.

Just fuse tap the Backlights and run the main lights to Aux.

On my 2 Jeeps, I run the Backlight on an Aux and the main lights on a different Aux just in case I want to ever turn them off.
Thanks man. Yes that’s what it’s set up right now. I just wanna know if i can connect both wires together and not fry the DRLs. Fuse tap will be best i guess if i really want to only use one aux switch.
 

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Thanks man. Yes that’s what it’s set up right now. I just wanna know if i can connect both wires together and not fry the DRLs. Fuse tap will be best i guess if i really want to only use one aux switch.
You won't fry your DRLs by connecting them in parallel with the main beams. The concern is whether the wiring is properly fused.

Since the original harness is fused at 20A, the only issue in using a 15A factory aux switch wire is the total current draw might blow the 15A factory fuse. There's usually a little overhead built in to a device fuse spec, so you may be able to run the lights without blowing the 15A fuse. If you connect the 15A aux switch wire to the fused harness positive wire and use the harness switch to turn on both DRLs and mains, you're running everything through the 15A fuse without blowing it.

If you move to a 40A aux switch, you need to use the 20A fuse on the harness to protect the harness wiring.

Another alternative to the 40A aux switch is to connect the harness fused power wire to the battery and use a 15A factory aux switch wire only on the harness switch wires, but properly wiring it requires an understanding of the harness schematic.
 
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GATORB8

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You won't fry your DRLs by connecting them in series with the main beams. The concern is whether the wiring is properly fused.
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WFRANCO

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You won't fry your DRLs by connecting them in parallel with the main beams. The concern is whether the wiring is properly fused.

Since the original harness is fused at 20A, the only issue in using a 15A factory aux switch wire is the total current draw might blow the 15A factory fuse. There's usually a little overhead built in to a device fuse spec, so you may be able to run the lights without blowing the 15A fuse. If you've got the 15A aux switch wire connected to the fused harness positive wire and you're using the harness switch to turn on both DRLs and mains, you're already running everything through the 15A fuse without blowing it.

If you switch to a 40A aux switch, you need to use the 20A fuse on the harness to protect the harness wiring.

Another alternative to the 40A aux switch is to connect the harness fused power wire to the battery and use a 15A factory aux switch wire only on the harness switch wires, but properly wiring it requires an understanding of the harness schematic.
Thanks! I appreciate it. I’ll keep it as it is for now (using 2 aux). I’ll reconsider once i put it a-pillar lights.
 

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Don't the lights completely drown out the amber drls when lit together? Seems to defeat the purpose of a low output DRL to have it on only with the lights themselves.
 
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WFRANCO

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Don't the lights completely drown out the amber drls when lit together? Seems to defeat the purpose of a low output DRL to have it on only with the lights themselves.
Not sure what you mean. But yes the main lights do drown out the amber DRLs when both turned on. Do you mean i should just disconnect the drl to free up the aux switch? If so yes, i thought of doing that as well if really needed in the future. Or i might just get a separate switching system.
 

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Not sure what you mean. But yes the main lights do drown out the amber DRLs when both turned on. Do you mean i should just disconnect the drl to free up the aux switch? If so yes, i thought of doing that as well if really needed in the future. Or i might just get a separate switching system.
The JL already has DRLs (at least I know the led package version does), I'd tap that wiring so the DRLs are all automatic and turn off when the headlights are on. Then use the aux switch to run the driving lights separately.
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