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A basic wiring question...

jaymz

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I've been using this stuff for a few years now. Zero issues.
14ga is fine for your application.
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I've been using this stuff for a few years now. Zero issues.
14ga is fine for your application.
Yeah, that's an example of wire that is "tinned" in order to help protect it better from the elements in a marine environment.
 

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Yeah, that's an example of wire that is "tinned" in order to help protect it better from the elements in a marine environment.
The student has become the teacher ? I’ve never paid attention to “tinned copper”, but now I know.

Good luck on your lights ? be sure to post an update when you get them installed, we’re invested now
 
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The student has become the teacher ? I’ve never paid attention to “tinned copper”, but now I know.

Good luck on your lights ? be sure to post an update when you get them installed, we’re invested now
Absolutely. Thanks for your help.
 
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CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) is also problematic if you want to solder it.... stick to either Pure Copper... or Tinned Copper ....

Also.. the more strands (cores) the wire has.. the more flexible... but it also reduces the current capacity..

1684168791651.png



I also think 14 AWG is a bit overkill for your application.. you should be fine with 16 AWG... like this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BKGY9FLN/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A24LFDN3EFRMHH&th=1

1684169710471.png
This looks like a winner and for 50 feet it's a reasonable price. Thanks for the recommendation and the link.
 

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jaymz

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This looks like a winner and for 50 feet it's a reasonable price. Thanks for the recommendation and the link.
I'd exercise a bit of caution with that stuff. The description is written in very poor English which makes me question if it's actually made in the US, and if the specs are actually what the description says they are.
 
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I'd exercise a bit of caution with that stuff. The description is written in very poor English which makes me question if it's actually made in the US, and if the specs are actually what the description says they are.
So the question is... are they lying about their product being manufactured in the USA... or are they Americans who are grammatically challenged??? :)

"[MADE IN USA] - Proudly made in New York, USA, our factory produce high quality wires and cables since 1972"
 

jaymz

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I'd exercise a bit of caution with that stuff. The description is written in very poor English which makes me question if it's actually made in the US, and if the specs are actually what the description says they are.
So the question is... are they lying about their product being manufactured in the USA... or are they Americans who are grammatically challenged??? :)

"[MADE IN USA] - Proudly made in New York, USA, our factory produce high quality wires and cables since 1972"
Could be either one, or both. I honestly don’t know.
 

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So the question is... are they lying about their product being manufactured in the USA... or are they Americans who are grammatically challenged??? :)

"[MADE IN USA] - Proudly made in New York, USA, our factory produce high quality wires and cables since 1972"
Interestingly there is a National Wire and Cable that produces US made wire, but they're in LA: https://www.nationalwire.com/index.php

Last year, looks like Remee Wire and Cable set up an LLC for National Wire and Cable in NY (same corporate address).
Jeep Wrangler JL A basic wiring question... 1684184477862


Per Remee's site, they've been manufacturing in NY since 1972, which matches the labeling.
https://remee.com/remee-wire-cable-profile/

They are in a city called "Florida, NY" which is why I assume they leave the city off.
 
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I saw the LA location online as well, but I didn't dig any further. Looks like it might be legit... which creates a whole other conundrum.
 

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Okay... I received the spool of wire, so I think I have everything I need to do the install. Now, before I go any further please remember that I am a newb in all things electrical, so if you have suggestions or advice please use small words and let's assume (for the purpose of this discussion) that I am a moron :)

Here is my plan. Let me know if I understand this correctly.

1.) Unwrap the 4 AUX wires under the hood. I'll be using either the orange or the purple wire since they are the 15amp wires for AUX 3 or 4.

2.) Spool out / cut lengths of wire to run from each of the lighting positions (on the DS and PS cowls) to the AUX wires near the battery. Leaving a little extra on each length just in case.

3.) Strip the black and red wires on each length of spool wires and use butt-end connectors to connect them to the black and red pig tails on each light. Heat shrink

4.) If I do it this way it will give me two separate sets of red/black wires (one to each light) terminating at the AUX wire. Here's my question: Can I just twist together black/black and red/red wires running to the lights and then use another butt-end connector to attach the two red wires to the AUX wire? I would then attach a terminal end to the black wires to ground them on one of the grounding bolts by the battery. Heat shrink.

5.) If I can't/shouldn't twist both red (light) wires together then Plan B would be to run one light to AUX 3 and the other to AUX 4 and then I could operate them independently.
 

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Okay... I received the spool of wire, so I think I have everything I need to do the install. Now, before I go any further please remember that I am a newb in all things electrical, so if you have suggestions or advice please use small words and let's assume (for the purpose of this discussion) that I am a moron :)

Here is my plan. Let me know if I understand this correctly.

1.) Unwrap the 4 AUX wires under the hood. I'll be using either the orange or the purple wire since they are the 15amp wires for AUX 3 or 4.

2.) Spool out / cut lengths of wire to run from each of the lighting positions (on the DS and PS cowls) to the AUX wires near the battery. Leaving a little extra on each length just in case.

3.) Strip the black and red wires on each length of spool wires and use butt-end connectors to connect them to the black and red pig tails on each light. Heat shrink

4.) If I do it this way it will give me two separate sets of red/black wires (one to each light) terminating at the AUX wire. Here's my question: Can I just twist together black/black and red/red wires running to the lights and then use another butt-end connector to attach the two red wires to the AUX wire? I would then attach a terminal end to the black wires to ground them on one of the grounding bolts by the battery. Heat shrink.

5.) If I can't/shouldn't twist both red (light) wires together then Plan B would be to run one light to AUX 3 and the other to AUX 4 and then I could operate them independently.
1-4 yup
5 not necessary
 

JJ_WA

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This is a very useful thread. Thanks for posting the question(s) and thanks for the excellent responses. I've bookmarked this one as I am sure I'll be referring to it in the future!
 

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I always run wires in heat resistant split loom, or wrap with Tesa tape, grouping them together and spitting out of the bundle where required, (OEM harness style).
That way it appears factory. ?
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