8 Adjustable Control Arms, what settings?

[Jmscrttndn]

Hello,

I recently got my set of Clayton adjustable control arms. I have all 8 to install. I wanted to reach out and see if anyone had some good tips on where to start when installing in terms of control arm length, (pinion / caster) angles. My initial thoughts were to try to set the lowers a little longer than stock to re-centre my wheels after a 3" lift, then dial in the upper for about 6 degrees of caster up front... and the rear for 0 or 1 degrees of pinion angle.

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

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[Jeep&dogs]

Hello,

I recently got my set of Clayton adjustable control arms. I have all 8 to install. I wanted to reach out and see if anyone had some good tips on where to start when installing in terms of control arm length, (pinion / caster) angles. My initial thoughts were to try to set the lowers a little longer than stock to re-centre my wheels after a 3" lift, then dial in the upper for about 6 degrees of caster up front... and the rear for 0 or 1 degrees of pinion angle.

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Clayton has recommended lengths on their site, they are pretty close to where they need to be.

 

[Jmscrttndn]

Clayton has recommended lengths on their site, they are pretty close to where they need to be.

All I see is min, max, and stock. Not a recommended.

• COR-1709100 - JL FRONT LOWERS
  • Center to Center STOCK = 24.000"
  • Center to Center MIN = 23.9375"
  • Center to Center MAX = 24.880"
• COR-1709101 - JL FRONT UPPERS
  • Center to Center STOCK = 21.100"
  • Center to Center MIN = 19.130"
  • Center to Center MAX = 22.283"
• COR-1709102 - JK/JL REAR LOWERS
  • Center to Center STOCK = 19.764"
  • Center to Center MIN = 19.686"
  • Center to Center MAX = 20.566"
• COR-1709103 - JK/JL REAR UPPERS
• • Center to Center STOCK = 17.425"
  • Center to Center MIN = 17.290"
  • Center to Center MAX = 18.665"

 

[Jeep&dogs]

All I see is min, max, and stock. Not a recommended.

• COR-1709100 - JL FRONT LOWERS
  • Center to Center STOCK = 24.000"
  • Center to Center MIN = 23.9375"
  • Center to Center MAX = 24.880"
• COR-1709101 - JL FRONT UPPERS
  • Center to Center STOCK = 21.100"
  • Center to Center MIN = 19.130"
  • Center to Center MAX = 22.283"
• COR-1709102 - JK/JL REAR LOWERS
  • Center to Center STOCK = 19.764"
  • Center to Center MIN = 19.686"
  • Center to Center MAX = 20.566"
• COR-1709103 - JK/JL REAR UPPERS
• • Center to Center STOCK = 17.425"
  • Center to Center MIN = 17.290"
  • Center to Center MAX = 18.665"

It’s in the instructions for the lifts.

 

[Roky]

Hello,

I recently got my set of Clayton adjustable control arms. I have all 8 to install. I wanted to reach out and see if anyone had some good tips on where to start when installing in terms of control arm length, (pinion / caster) angles. My initial thoughts were to try to set the lowers a little longer than stock to re-centre my wheels after a 3" lift, then dial in the upper for about 6 degrees of caster up front... and the rear for 0 or 1 degrees of pinion angle.

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Mine is setup with front uppers at 20”, front lowers at 24-5/8”. The rear uppers are 17-3/4” and rear lowers are at 20-1/4”. This is with 37s. For the rear, I chose to center my wheel in the well because I don’t like the look of the rear wheels on stock rigs, to far forward.

If you choose to do this you’ll have to get rid of plastic inner liner behind the wheel, or shape it with heat gun. Depending on how you set up your bump stops and the travel of your shocks, you may have to trim pinch seam, which is what I decided to do, because I’m after maximum articulation. These rear measurements has my pinion between 1-2 degrees , and there’s no bow in rear springs, perfectly straight. The front measurements are set up for between 6-6.5 degrees of caster, and a little longer wheel base. This is how it looks..... and again this is based on 37s, if you have 35s, you’ll have to make some minor adjustments. But this will get you close......

 

[Jmscrttndn]

It’s in the instructions for the lifts.

Mine is setup with front uppers at 20”, front lowers at 24-5/8”. The rear uppers are 17-3/4” and rear lowers are at 20-1/4”. This is with 37s. For the rear, I chose to center my wheel in the well because I don’t like the look of the rear wheels on stock rigs, to far forward.

If you choose to do this you’ll have to get rid of plastic inner liner behind the wheel, or shape it with heat gun. Depending on how you set up your bump stops and the travel of your shocks, you may have to trim pinch seam, which is what I decided to do, because I’m after maximum articulation. These rear measurements has my pinion between 1-2 degrees , and there’s no bow in rear springs, perfectly straight. The front measurements are set up for between 6-6.5 degrees of caster, and a little longer wheel base. This is how it looks..... and again this is based on 37s, if you have 35s, you’ll have to make some minor adjustments. But this will get you close......

Thanks very much to both of you. This is exactly what I was looking for. I’m on 37s. This will make everything quite a bit easier. Thanks!

 

[Jmscrttndn]

Mine is setup with front uppers at 20”, front lowers at 24-5/8”. The rear uppers are 17-3/4” and rear lowers are at 20-1/4”. This is with 37s. For the rear, I chose to center my wheel in the well because I don’t like the look of the rear wheels on stock rigs, to far forward.

If you choose to do this you’ll have to get rid of plastic inner liner behind the wheel, or shape it with heat gun. Depending on how you set up your bump stops and the travel of your shocks, you may have to trim pinch seam, which is what I decided to do, because I’m after maximum articulation. These rear measurements has my pinion between 1-2 degrees , and there’s no bow in rear springs, perfectly straight. The front measurements are set up for between 6-6.5 degrees of caster, and a little longer wheel base. This is how it looks..... and again this is based on 37s, if you have 35s, you’ll have to make some minor adjustments. But this will get you close......

I did your plan. Rear lower 20.25" but the rear uppers needed a bit more than 17.75" to get the driveshaft to around 0-1 degrees WRT axle housing. I trimmed a touch off the pinch seam behind the tires (the extra lower plastic piece was removed long ago). And it all worked. Thanks so much! Now for the front, another day. The rears didn't really give us any issues but it was a solid 4.5 hours including the install of the rear lower shock mount protective braces, and my OCD wanting to get the control arms torqued so that the frame side and axle side were perfectly in line with one another after torqueing. Thanks!

 

[Roky]

I did your plan. Rear lower 20.25" but the rear uppers needed a bit more than 17.75" to get the driveshaft to around 0-1 degrees WRT axle housing. I trimmed a touch off the pinch seam behind the tires (the extra lower plastic piece was removed long ago). And it all worked. Thanks so much! Now for the front, another day. The rears didn't really give us any issues but it was a solid 4.5 hours including the install of the rear lower shock mount protective braces, and my OCD wanting to get the control arms torqued so that the frame side and axle side were perfectly in line with one another after torqueing. Thanks!

No problem brother, glad I could help.

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