35's with skids or 37's without

[Adv_aw8s]

Answering B4 reading so as not to sway my opinion. Since these are the only 2 options, 35's WITH skids.

I don't think I would wheel (at least how I do) without skids at ANY height/tire size.

I like to challenge myself and my vehicle. I also tend to wheel each JP at stock height B4 adding any height changing mods. I do this for a year or 2 typically.

On my most recent (JLURD), I added stronger diffs, better rock rails and after the first wheeling trip, I upgraded to a stronger rear bumper to help eliminate it flexing up into the tub.

After the Colorado and Moab trips, I added a secondary/stronger fuel filter skid, do to the weakness of the OEM skid.

This system has worked for me.


Curious which fuel filter skid you went with and how you like it? I'd like to upgrade mine. I've hit the factory skid several times and my buddy used his on the Rubicon and caused a leak in the housing.

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[Kbinspections]

As a daily driver is would say 35” & skids and call it a day.

37” will just wear out your OEM components quicker during your daily drive.

 

[jhackathorne]

As a daily driver is would say 35” & skids and call it a day.

37” will just wear out your OEM components quicker during your daily drive.

It may wear them out quicker, but then you get to upgrade more parts!

 

[ParadigmDawg]

My two cents

I ran a pretty standard 2” lift for 35s, and 3.5” lift for 37s. This puts my skids 2.5” higher than my rig with 35s. I’ve had no issues with factory skids ?‍ I’ve run what I feel the need to run in Moab, elephant hill, metal masher, hells revenge, poison spider, etc. I have zero desire to drag my rig through Pritchett Canyon, I would rather buy a cheap jeep and give it hell in something I could comfortably afford to roll. The factory skid rarely hits by comparison to my 35” rig, even though I’ve got a longer wheelbase, the bumpers rarely hit by comparison as well. The skids seem to do a good enough job for me. I’m far more concerned with rolling my rig, and I’m almost never concerned about turtling on an obstacle, and even then, the factory skid is there to save the day. The skids I could see being more useful to me would be diff skids and rear shock skids. Not to say that full belly skids have no place, they’re definitely better than nothing or factory skids, but, I don’t see them as a “must have”. I would go as far as to say I would probably pick 3.5” lift and 37s over 35s, skids, and steel bumpers. I find the enhanced break over, approach, and departure angles to be far more useful off road. 2.5” of extra clearance has done well for me. If you like the look 35s and 3.5” of lift would equate to just 1” less overall lift. In this case 35s would be similarly capable, and skids would play a bigger role in capability. I’m just comparing how rigs are generally built, and it’s usually not with the same suspension lift for both sizes.

FWIW, my little sport on 35s and 2” lift did all the same trails on factory skids as well. It was more abusive on factory skids but she did fine and survived 7-8 week long trips out to Moab before we “upgraded”

Last rig on 2” lift and 35s

35” tires on XR factory lift

35s on 3.5” lift

37s on 3.5” lift (a full 3” taller than 35” XR from factory)

Unless you are just flat out are out of money, there is no reason not to at least run an oil pan skid. Knock a hole in the pan and you may not know it until you throw out a rod.

 

[Jeepeto]

Unless you are just flat out are out of money, there is no reason not to at least run an oil pan skid. Knock a hole in the pan and you may not know it until you throw out a rod.

I’m not against them. Just haven’t bothered with them yet, it’s a gamble i suppose. Any recommendations? I’d probably just default to Metal Cloak but is there something else’s you’d recommend

 

[roaniecowpony]

No rocks? No skids are really needed. They get in the way of maintenance too.

Tires...well, that's a different story. Larger tires for sand, mud, etc, is good. You can get away with going to 35s with 4.10s and auto trans, but 37s makes your 8 speed auto into a 6 speed, if you don't regear. 37s are also a much more noticeable detriment to braking power.

 

[Zandcwhite]

I did not know the price difference between 35s and 37s was sufficient enough to buy skids & 35s for the cost of 37s.

Because it's not even close. I caught a set of kanati mud hog 37x12.50r17 from Walmart on sale for $94 each. You couldn't even buy skids alone for what my tires cost. $412 for all 4 shipped to my house (went on my Gladiator so no need for a matched spare).

 

[Zandcwhite]

No rocks? No skids are really needed. They get in the way of maintenance too.

Tires...well, that's a different story. Larger tires for sand, mud, etc, is good. You can get away with going to 35s with 4.10s and auto trans, but 37s makes your 8 speed auto into a 6 speed, if you don't regear. 37s are also a much more noticeable detriment to braking power.

My mojave still sees and holds 8th heading across the desert in factory 4.10s and 37s at 80+mph. Sure 4.56s would be optimal for my use, but not $3k better. The idea that you won't see 8th gear has got to be touted by the same people who say you can't drive a Jeep over 70mph because it's "unsafe". Conversely we regeared all the way down to 5.38s in our 2019 on 38s and it saw 8th all the time alright, like any speed over 40mph. Who wants am 8 speed that's in the top gear by half the legal speed limit? Felt far more wasteful than spending more time in 7th than 8th to me.

 

[BetOnBlack]

Don't crawl on Rick without his permission! You're asking for trouble!

But the rest of what he said I agree with. Just no Rick crawling.

Any spelling mistakes are purely because of doing this on my phone and not proof reading before I post.
But if OP is crawling on Rick, permission is required.

 

[Eyeball]

as the title says, for a daily driver that goes on a few trips a year

35's with skids or 37's without.

Whats everyones thoughts

My thoughts? I think this is the laziest question I have read all day. If you want insightful answers, you need to out more effort into your question…

 

[Camaroboi13]

Buy skids and 35s now, and wait for them to wear out and buy 37s. Honestly, if you’re even thinking about 37s, you’ll regret not going to them right away. Don’t forget that with a lot of skids out there you’ll lose some ground clearance, even more of a reason to buy 37s.

 

[Ratbert]

Don’t forget that with a lot of skids out there you’ll lose some ground clearance, even more of a reason to buy 37s.

Except, of course, the skids that gain you ground clearance. E.g. NVM's.

 

[yokramer]

Except, of course, the skids that gain you ground clearance. E.g. NVM's.

Artecs as well yea? Those things suck up hella tight

 

[Maverick909]

I’m not against them. Just haven’t bothered with them yet, it’s a gamble i suppose. Any recommendations? I’d probably just default to Metal Cloak but is there something else’s you’d recommend

ive had my EVO skids for about 4 years now. engine/transmission + the exhaust loop cover. ive gave them some love taps a few times and they have held up nicely.


as for the OP. I would say the SKID's and keep it stock until the tires wear out. Then upgrade to 35's. I have ran my jeep with every size from 31" to 37's I quite enjoy my 37's but skids are much higher on the priority than bigger tires. I would get full skids. eng/transmission, front and rear differential skids. all before tires and lifts

 

[Deleted User 38384]

as the title says, for a daily driver that goes on a few trips a year

35's with skids or 37's without.

Whats everyones thoughts

Depends what kind of trips you're going on.

If there's rocks, there's no amount of clearance I would feel comfortable running without skids.

If it's just muddy holes, maybe just skids for the important parts.

Realistically, you could run most things without skids, but why risk it?

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