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2H drive

richk225

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You've got the same transfer case model as the 4xe. Difference is you're locked out of 2H by a lever and some programming and you don't get the 4:1 crawl ratio that the 4xe Rubicon has (I suspect the only reason we even get it is for electric only mode). I've yet to see ANY 4xe blow the transfer case in 2H (same torque figures as 392) from a stand still. Give the tazer a shot and see what you think. Might give you some more mileage before you need to replace the fluid. ?‍♂
Replace the fluid? Tires might needed before that
I will let you all know how it goes, tomorrow I will give it a shot, I`m still learning about the Tazer
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richk225

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Indeed, Jeep "hid" the 2hi function in the transfer case on the 392's, I believe their reasoning was probably something along the lines of "this engine has too damn much horsepower to be safe to drive in 2wd". The Tazer allows you to access the hidden 2Hi mode.

Also a 4xe owner here, and I agree with you that I also just leave mine in 2hi 95% of the time. No reason to waste gas spinning the front driveshaft for no reason when I'm just commuting on the highway to work. The torque/hp is the same as 4hi when you're at highway speeds, it only gets throttled in 2hi at lower speeds, say < 30mph or so.
I still miss locking hubs!
 
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There's a genuine 2LO function available? ? Color me interested. Is that a Tazer function for just the 392, or is it available/possible on other engines & transmissions?
To my admittedly limiited knowledge, it allows you to disable the FAD in 2WD position on any JL or JT, essentially making it so that when you go into 4-low only the rear wheels are driven.
 

richk225

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FAD nowhere to be found on a 392

Jeep Wrangler JL 2H drive 86FB65D7-11BD-44D7-A3CE-8DA39938E217


Jeep Wrangler JL 2H drive 64F24D67-1EF9-43FA-8FE7-0565D71C26B6
 

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DewHawk

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Replace the fluid? Tires might needed before that
I will let you all know how it goes, tomorrow I will give it a shot, I`m still learning about the Tazer
Maybe. Brad from Trail Recon had his T-Case go bad pretty fast. I guess this transfer case needs its fluid flushed a lot more often because of the internals. They’re not like your typical jeep. Something to do with clutches and belts rather than traditional cogs.
 

richk225

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Maybe. Brad from Trail Recon had his T-Case go bad pretty fast. I guess this transfer case needs its fluid flushed a lot more often because of the internals. They’re not like your typical jeep. Something to do with clutches and belts rather than traditional cogs.
Am I mistaken or did it say somewhere possibly that the transfer case is non serviceable?
I plan on changing mine but I have to read up on what fluid to get first
 

DewHawk

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Am I mistaken or did it say somewhere possibly that the transfer case is non serviceable?
I plan on changing mine but I have to read up on what fluid to get first
Nope it's definitely still serviceable. Uses standard ATF like regular gas and diesel Jeeps. 21ft lbs torque spec.
Jeep Wrangler JL 2H drive mp3022 transfer case diagram

Jeep Wrangler JL 2H drive mp3022 transfer case photo
 

richk225

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Nope it's definitely still serviceable. Uses standard ATF like regular gas and diesel Jeeps. 21ft lbs torque spec.
mp3022 transfer case diagram.PNG

mp3022 transfer case photo.png
Thanks for the heads up, I could swear that it was considered unserviceable, maybe my Raptor was or the wife's Grand Cherokee. Now I`m on a quest to see where I had read that
 

Beaching631

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How are your tires?
I *can* make the rear end slide out in rain, but other than that, if I’m driving sensibly, it’s fine in 2wd.
They are Nitto Ridge Grapplers with probably 80%of the tread left. I think it's plenty of tread depth to channel the water from the rain. I really drive somewhat carefully. I notice the sliding the most from the rear end coming downhill in the rain
 

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Beaching631

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I've done it a few times, during sustained heavy rainfall and when traveling on divided, 4-lane roadways that are local to me. While I didn't notice any axle binding or wheel hop (nor was I expecting any when traveling on reasonably straight asphalt), there was just enough of a hint of pulling, so to speak, from the front to be a bit off-putting. I'd then shift back to 2HI and lift my right foot a little more in recognizance of standing water here and there.
Thanks. I actually drive reasonably careful. I notice the rear end sliding out often in the rain, especially when going downhill. Was wondering if 4Hi is better but it seems to invite other issues. I'll just go a little slower from now on.
 

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I actually drive reasonably careful. I notice the rear end sliding out often in the rain, especially when going downhill.
I've noticed that too, and only in the past few months. My original tires are just about at 2/32nds now, though, meaning they require replacement and thus provide observably reduced traction during sustained inclement weather. More to the point, dialing back the response rate of my throttle controller has also reduced the tendency of the rear to step out.
 

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I've noticed that too, and only in the past few months. My original tires are just about at 2/32nds now, though, meaning they require replacement and thus provide observably reduced traction during sustained inclement weather. More to the point, dialing back the response rate of my throttle controller has also reduced the tendency of the rear to step out.
Isn't 1/16th" pretty well bald for a Wrangler tire?
 

Heimkehr

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Isn't 1/16th" pretty well bald for a Wrangler tire?
They're Michelin all-seasons that are hovering at 3/32nds or so. Yes, close to but not precisely at 1/16ths. Anyway, they're not as bad looking as a M/T tire, for example, would look with the same measurement.
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