'22 JLR 2.0T build progress/wheeling thread

[AdamG]

I went with the JKS, it was on sale plus the Northridge forum discount and their free shipping and it scored pretty high on the “yeah buy it” meter.

Next, rear trackbar bracket - how do I know if I need one? What do I need to look for and/or measure?

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[Remorseless]

I went with the JKS, it was on sale plus the Northridge forum discount and their free shipping and it scored pretty high on the “yeah buy it” meter.

Next, rear trackbar bracket - how do I know if I need one? What do I need to look for and/or measure?

If you're lifting higher than Rubicon height, I'd run a rear bracket. Almost every lift on the market comes with a rear bracket.

 

[Remorseless]

Well, Jeep update. Got this upcoming weekend set with my wrenching buddies to install the lift. Very much looking forward to that. Really hope I've got enough jacking options to thoroughly test bump configuration.

Also, got the @TeraFlex tire carrier installed. Went smooth, except the jam nuts that are used to crank the studs into the carrier are softer than butter that's been sitting in the sun all day. The principle is sound - crank two jam nuts against each other and use the outer one like a bolt head to tighten the stud down to spec. Cool, except on the first stud, at about 60 ft-lb out of the specified 150 ft-lb, this is what the insides of the back jam nut turned into:

Spun all the way down the stud without tightening. Did get it tightened back up and torqued down to ~120 ft-lbs after the above damage was done, but that was all she wrote for one of the jam nuts. In order to get the first stud torqued to 150, and the other studs even done, I ended up taking the other jam nut (which was also fucked up, just it goobered up inside in a way that made it super tight on the threads of the studs) and tightening it against my old OEM lug nuts. Destroyed 5 or 6 old lug nuts, but got all the studs tightened down. The metal was so soft on the jam nuts that by the start of the second stud the remaining good jam nut was almost completely rounded and I had to resort to channel locks to get it done. This is how it looked by the end of the install:

@TeraFlex really needs higher grade hardware for this stud install. Either that or a new stud design with wrench flats or something. Searching the forums and I'm seeing a number of threads about the same thing. The supplied jam nuts are way too soft to actually hold torque and torque down like their instructions and video show.

Anyway, all installed, rest of the fit and finish is perfect:

Spare's on the carrier, but no money shot for that after the 2 hour install with hand tools turned into a 6 hour ordeal fighting with those damn jam nuts. After that, and after hoisting that heavy ass tire into place, was not in a mood for taking pictures lol

 

[Remorseless]

Alright, big update time, probably break it up into multiple posts - the @JKS Manufacturing lift is on, and it drives great. Waiting for a time when my buddy and I can get her out for a shakedown wheeling trip. Pretty simple suspension install, but some install notes and such below. Installed in a driveway with jack stands, floor jacks, and a little air compressor to run some air tools.

Started off the install last Thursday with the steering stabilizer I picked up to pair with the lift - Fox ATS 2.0, installed in stock location (I know, I know - but I'm not settled on which tie rod/drag link I want to run, so I'll save the flip for when I do settle on something). No real pictures here, but did want to mention that the bottom bolt for the stabilizer bracket wouldn't line up between the bracket hole and the threaded hole in the FAD casting. Took a little creative bending in the vise with a pry bar to get the bracket aligned, but went on fine and helped tighten up the steering. I like to run around 15-18 clicks in out of 25 on the street. I lose return to center, but I don't really care about that. I like the adjustability and the firmness I can get when on the road. Definitely hangs low, but my stock stabilizer was flattened so I needed the replacement.

Following this, on Friday I worked on removing the stock shocks and LCAs. Shocks come out easy, front LCAs require removing the brake line from the control arm bracket. IMO, the best way to do this is to keep the bracket bolted to the LCA, worm your way in there and score a groove down the center of the bracket with a cutoff wheel like the below:

I'm not even 1/3 of the way into the bracket and it peeled open easy peasy with a set of channel locks. Don't waste your time trying to force it open without doing this, IMO. Once that was done, replaced the arms one at a time:

Take out the axle side track bar bolt and sway bar end link bolts at this point and you can easily drop the springs out. Quick tip at this point - the spring isolators will fall out, and since the JKS kit reuses the stock isolators, you have to get them back in and lined up when putting the new springs in. This can be a pain in the ass - but if you stick some double sided VHB tape or similar to them, you can just push them up in their holes and they'll stick there:

On Saturday we started on the rest of the lift beyond the control arms. The JKS rear track bar brace/bracket requires drilling 3 holes in the stock bracket in order to install:

Some step bits and a grinder bit for a dremel make good clean holes with less grabbing and pulling than a normal drill bit. JKS recommends using just the 2" bump (they provide 2" bases, with 2x0.5" spacers for each bump pad, for up to a total of 3" of bump). Testing with the 2" bump, in a full axle stuff situation (don't have the equipment to test articulation in the driveway, unfortunately, so full axle stuff is all I can do) and plenty of clearance and shock leftover:

Without the 2" bump, trackbar hits exhaust with 1-3/4" of space between jounce tube and axle landing pad. So, 2" it is, will update if I have to change anything after getting it articulated. Springs went in next, just disconnect lower shock bolt and drop the axle, nothing crazy. Leave all bolts that go through a rubber bushing finger loose, but make sure your track bar bracket is torqued on properly:

Set your sway bar links per the instructions (11-3/4" center of stud stud-to-center of stud) and that's it for the back. Everything will get torqued after Jeep is on its own weight front and rear.

 

[Krondor]

Looks fantastic. Great work!

I had issues with those spring purchase as well. Double sided tape is a great idea!

 

[Remorseless]

For the front, am doing some shenanigans with the trackbar setup. Will be testing out factory mounting location and a Teraflex raised axle bracket mount up front with the JKS track bar. Installed that first once the springs were drooped out, but removed immediately after. Required a few holes be drilled, but nothing crazy:

From there, moved on to shock install. The front's only noteworthy item here is the reservoir brackets for the reservoirs. Getting that little aluminum clamp to stay in place was giving me an aneurysm, used some duct tape to hold them in place for mounting:

Here's the only redneck jank I let slip into my install - I've been considering replacing the stock inner fender liners with the Paramount plastic liners, and the stock flares with the Quadratec Baja flares to give more room to play with in the future and so I hacked up the fender liner to give easier access to mount the shocks without removing the fender or inner liner:

Was an executive decision in the name of expediency and solidified why I'd like an inner liner that drops out much easier. Wife was thrilled to hear I added a different part to my window shopping list ?

Full axle stuff with the same 2" of bump, ignore the precarious wood block:

Got the springs in after this, not much to that, droop the axle as far as you can without stretching anything (or disconnect all the lines/breathers) and stuff the springs in, aligning on the spring pads. Used the VHB tape again for the front isolators and it worked well again. This wrapped up our Saturday.

Sunday was mostly just me sitting in the garage looking at the rain and a partially finished Jeep:

Snuck out in between rain bands and got a few little things done, like securing the reservoir hoses a little more securely to some holes in the frame with some Christmas tree zip ties using existing frame holes on both sides:

Next was the fog light wire harness plug that sits right on top of the passenger reservoir:

After popping it out of the frame, you can take the large oval Christmas tree off and relocate it slightly forward with the same zip ties I used for the reservoirs:

Clears up just enough room to avoid interference. Once the rain cleared up, got her under her own weight:

 

[Remorseless]

Was too late in the day on Sunday after waiting out the rain to torque all of the remaining bolts down, so Sunday was just the control arms and shocks - again, after the rain subsided. Trick here that I got from @blnewt worked amazing for the 207 ft-lb JKS asks for on the front LCAs - use a jack to support the wrench (or breaker bar in my case) holding the nut so you only gotta worry about the torque wrench:

Also, recommend keeping a list of torques separate from the instructions so you can cross them off and keep track of where you are:

JKS front and rear trackbars used to center everything up:

Rear is set the same length as stock given the bracket, but is beefier than the stock bar. Front is using stock bracket for now. Will get some time with it before testing the Teraflex bracket.

Final product looks good I think, I'm very happy with the way it drives. I've got the LSC adjusted on the shocks to 5, HSC to 5 up front, and 6 in the rear. I prefer it a bit stiffer, but not harsh and this gives that to me. Anyway, final product:

And next project lined up on the bench, thankfully taking up much less space than the suspension did. Waiting on a few more parts and completion of a shakedown wheeling trip or two:

 

[Remorseless]

Looks fantastic. Great work!

I had issues with those spring purchase as well. Double sided tape is a great idea!

Thanks! I got the idea after reading your account of the spring install actually. Remembered I had VHB tape sitting around after an old project and decided that would help lol. Worked surprisingly well.

 

[yokramer]

Looks amazing man. Hella jealous for sure and solidified 37s for me.

 

[blnewt]

Great job!, Glad that "trick" worked well
Nice job on that torque checklist, something I need to adopt for my DIY stuff, especially since I'm old and can't remember where I put my glasses (when I'm already wearing them, lol)

 

[Remorseless]

Looks amazing man. Hella jealous for sure and solidified 37s for me.

Thanks - and yeah, I think 37s hit the sweet spot on the JL Rubis. Enough tire you get good diff clearance, but not so much that you're pushing it to the very limit on stock axle tubes. Especially with the 2.0 you don't lose too much in terms of drivability. My 3.6 JK wasn't bad on smallish 37s after a regear, but the 2.0 handles it noticeably better IMO.

 

[Remorseless]

Great job!, Glad that "trick" worked well
Nice job on that torque checklist, something I need to adopt for my DIY stuff, especially since I'm old and can't remember where I put my glasses (when I'm already wearing them, lol)

Worked a charm! Let me tell you though, it was not a small number of times that I couldn't find the damned tool I needed when it's sitting by itself in the middle of the work bench after getting tired...

 

[Roky]

Was too late in the day on Sunday after waiting out the rain to torque anything down, so that happened on Sunday for the control arms and shocks - again, after the rain subsided. Trick here that I got from @blnewt worked amazing for the 207 ft-lb JKS asks for on the front LCAs - use a jack to support the wrench (or breaker bar in my case) holding the nut so you only gotta worry about the torque wrench:

Also, recommend keeping a list of torques separate from the instructions so you can cross them off and keep track of where you are:

JKS front and rear trackbars used to center everything up:

Rear is set the same length as stock given the bracket, but is beefier than the stock bar.

Final product looks good I think, I'm very happy with the way it drives. I've got the LSC adjusted on the shocks to 5, HSC to 5 up front, and 6 in the rear. I prefer it a bit stiffer, but not harsh and this gives that to me. Anyway, final product:

And next project lined up on the bench, thankfully taking up much less space than the suspension did. Waiting on a few more parts and completion of a shakedown wheeling trip or two:

Nice work man…….

 

[Remorseless]

Nice work man…….

Thanks man!

 

[Krondor]

Thanks! I got the idea after reading your account of the spring install actually. Remembered I had VHB tape sitting around after an old project and decided that would help lol. Worked surprisingly well.

Yeah, that was a serious pain in the ass for me. Finally got everything to settle with the nipple in place, but damn! Then you pull this "No way" idea. Noted for next time if I must do it again. ??

So get some miles in. I want to swap notes. I still haven't any real trails under the belt, but Spring is coming.. maybe.

Love your build. ?

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