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'22 JLR 2.0T build progress/wheeling thread

Krondor

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This right here!!! :)


All told, nice simple piece that positively locates the e-brake cables. Way better than just zip tying it after relocation like I did on my JK back in the day
After installing mine, I was thinking the same thing.
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I have the Rancho e brake relocation bracket in hand also, just haven't had a chance to install it yet. But I feel like I read in the instructions (or somewhere), that it is advised to put that center bolt facing downwards (threads below the bracket). Supposedly to improve the clearances from the evap lines above and reduce the likelihood of damage.

Did you have to adjust the length of the cables any under the console?
 
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I have the Rancho e brake relocation bracket in hand also, just haven't had a chance to install it yet. But I feel like I read in the instructions (or somewhere), that it is advised to put that center bolt facing downwards (threads below the bracket). Supposedly to improve the clearances from the evap lines above and reduce the likelihood of damage.

Did you have to adjust the length of the cables any under the console?
The rancho instructions have the bolt facing upwards, the way I've got it in my pics:

Jeep Wrangler JL '22 JLR 2.0T build progress/wheeling thread 1674047707261


I've got a finger's width between the top of the OE bolt and evap/fuel lines. I don't foresee either the bolt/bracket or the evap/fuel lines moving much even under heavy wheeling. As long as they're not touching I'd say either up or down is fine - just keep an eye on it. If it's facing down, an additional thing to keep an eye on is that the bolt will be situated right above your pinion. So, if you decide on down, fully cycle your rear axle to ensure it's not contacting at full stuff depending on how much bump you're running.
 

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The rancho instructions have the bolt facing upwards, the way I've got it in my pics:

1674047707261.png


I've got a finger's width between the top of the OE bolt and evap/fuel lines. I don't foresee either the bolt/bracket or the evap/fuel lines moving much even under heavy wheeling. As long as they're not touching I'd say either up or down is fine - just keep an eye on it. If it's facing down, an additional thing to keep an eye on is that the bolt will be situated right above your pinion. So, if you decide on down, fully cycle your rear axle to ensure it's not contacting at full stuff depending on how much bump you're running.
Roger that thanks. I am running the Mopar lift with the included mopar rear bump stops, so likely not enough flex to come into contact with the pinion. But a good point to check regardless
 

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2 questions for you…

1-Did you get the JKS lift on and if yes, how much lift did you get? Considering it to lift my SportS.

2-On page 3 of this thread where you were listing the suspension options, you had track bars and track bar brackets. Why would both be needed?

Trying to get my brain sorted on all this.
 

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2 questions for you…

1-Did you get the JKS lift on and if yes, how much lift did you get? Considering it to lift my SportS.

2-On page 3 of this thread where you were listing the suspension options, you had track bars and track bar brackets. Why would both be needed?

Trying to get my brain sorted on all this.
Lift's not on yet - wheels and tires gotta get ordered first and then I want to get the tire carrier swapped out. After that's done, it'll be time to schedule the lift with my buds who help me install. Probably be on late Feb/early March, weather depending (driveway install, workshop's not big enough for 3 or 4 dudes and an exploded suspension). I'll be sure to include heights and angles for a bunch of different components, and compare stock/lifted.

For the trackbar question - take a look at the below pic:

Jeep Wrangler JL '22 JLR 2.0T build progress/wheeling thread 1674480169687


This doesn't necessarily represent a JL, but it exemplifies the concept well. Your axle moves on an arc with your trackbar as your suspension cycles. The further your suspension drops, the more the trackbar wants to pull the axle towards the frame mount where it's statically mounted. By adding a trackbar bracket you change the position of the trackbar and axle within the arc of the trackbar's travel. This, in my opinion, causes a Jeep to handle bump steer better.

When you hit a bump, your suspension both compresses shorter than ride height and then extends beyond ride height during rebound. With a lifted Jeep, depending on the height gained from the springs, the trackbar may be in a position within the arc of travel that feels flighty because it's begun swinging more towards the frame mount for the trackbar than it is swinging down.

So, basically, the mount helps try and keep most of the trackbar's movement up and down and less towards the frame mount in its arc of travel. It can't completely make it move only vertically, but it can help reduce the pull to the frame mount side of the Jeep during suspension extension, which makes the Jeep feel more stable.
 
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What happens if you add a TB relo bracket without enough lift? Run the risk of the bracket contacting something above it?
 

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Clubs
 
What happens if you add a TB relo bracket without enough lift? Run the risk of the bracket contacting something above it?
I would think yes. Also, the goal of those brackets is to keep the track bar as level to the axle (or ground) as possible to give you the most control/best handling.

If you’re relocating the track bar without it being necessary, you’re likely putting it at an angle it would be handling worse at in an everyday situation. Similar to lifting it and not relocating it, except you’re not getting the benefit of the lift kit and only sacrificing the handling.

Now, if it’s a small lift, the difference will be minimal, but you will still notice it if you’re looking for it. I do not currently run a track bar relocation bracket on my 2.5ā€ lift, but it’s on my ever-growing list of future mods; although, lower priority because it handles fine as is.
 
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What happens if you add a TB relo bracket without enough lift? Run the risk of the bracket contacting something above it?
Yep, pretty much as @Philly_ said - not only could (not a guarantee, depending on how low profile a bracket you have vs the aggressive stock bumpstop) you ram it into things at full stuff of one or both axle ends, but it's potentially suboptimal in terms of where in its arc of travel the trackbar is when the suspension cycles, making it feel worse than stock.

IMO, with no lift, drive it as is - I'd correct caster on no lift via control arms before I'd worry about trackbar angles. But once lifted, it's a good idea, but not strictly necessary. I do always recommend it to people when I'm helping them build out a suspension on a JK and newer to get the (IMO) most optimal setup, but it's definitely not going to cause your Jeep to fall apart and die if you don't do it.
 

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Thanks guys. My plan is to get the new springs and shocks in and see how it does. I have a 1.5ā€ spacer in now and did not notice any change in how it drove.
 

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Just a note, rear TB brackets are fine, but you don't want a front one. In the front a TB bracket whithout a drop pitman arm will change the alignment of the drag link vs the track bar, and can induce bump steer.
 
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Just a note, rear TB brackets are fine, but you don't want a front one. In the front a TB bracket whithout a drop pitman arm will change the alignment of the drag link vs the track bar, and can induce bump steer.
I've always run front brackets, never had bump steer (on JKs anyway, across quite a few lift heights low to high) and I'm pretty sure the JL angles are close enough they'll behave similarly. By flattening the angle of the trackbar at ride height, it should be reducing bump steer since the axle isn't trying to shift towards driver side during extension, so it should be putting less strain on the drag link during the cycle. Bump steer typically comes in when the axle shifts side to side, pushing or pulling the drag link as it cycles up and down and left/right.

I suppose though it could cause issues if the trackbar was raised too high for the lift height - would cause the same issue that being too low (steep tb angle) for the lift height would cause - but a bracket from any of the reputable mfrs shouldn't be in that situation.
 

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I've always run front brackets, never had bump steer (on JKs anyway, across quite a few lift heights low to high) and I'm pretty sure the JL angles are close enough they'll behave similarly. By flattening the angle of the trackbar at ride height, it should be reducing bump steer since the axle isn't trying to shift towards driver side during extension, so it should be putting less strain on the drag link during the cycle. Bump steer typically comes in when the axle shifts side to side, pushing or pulling the drag link as it cycles up and down and left/right.

I suppose though it could cause issues if the trackbar was raised too high for the lift height - would cause the same issue that being too low (steep tb angle) for the lift height would cause - but a bracket from any of the reputable mfrs shouldn't be in that situation.
If you’re using adjustable track bar, then bracket not needed . I would only use front t.b. bracket with oem track bar on a 2-2.5ā€ lift. More lift it’s not as useful as an adjustable…..also if I’m flipping drag link, then bracket is used with adj tb….that’s just how I role… ymmv.
 
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If you’re using adjustable track bar, then bracket not needed . I would only use front t.b. bracket with oem track bar on a 2-2.5ā€ lift. More lift it’s not as useful as an adjustable…..also if I’m flipping drag link, then bracket is used with adj tb….that’s just how I role… ymmv.
I usually run adjustable + bracket, for anything over 2". Stock trackbars tends to flex more than I like with a 12.50 width tire, especially the heavy ones that get run these days.
 
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Thinking on it, I may modify my lift install plan to do back-to-back testing with and without the front bracket, just to see if JLs are any different in that regard than any of my past Jeeps. Wheels and tires are being delivered in the next week or two and so I may do comparisons stock everything, stock suspension & 37s with stock trackbar, lift & 37s with JKS trackbar, and lift & 37s with JKS trackbar and Teraflex front bracket. Run a small loop around town or something and see how the Jeep responds.
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