Pumpkin Jacking....?

[cv2065]

Hey guys. I'm putting a Dynatrac 2.5" lift on my 22' Wrangler Sahara tomorrow and I want to get the Jeep up all in the air at one time. I've read bunches of threads in regarding to jacking points. My first choice was the axle tube, where there is about a 4" section to the left of the pumpkin, but not sure about the stress there.

Second choice is the pumpkin. Issue I have is where do you all place the jack pad on the pumpkin? Careful to not hit the diff cover, there is about a 1" flat lip at the front of the diff, but that looks too small for the floor jack pad. The rest of the pumpkin is curved, so hard to get a flat spot until you get the back where it meets the driveshaft. Plenty of room there, but is that too far back against the driveshaft? Seems like I had more choices with my old JK.

3rd choice is under the LCA bracket and do one side at a time. I see the shock mount is welded there, so it causes some interference. Not sure if that mount would be damaged if the jack lifts from that point?

Once up, I have 6 ton jack stands that I'll put under the frame. I have a garden variety 3 ton garage floor jack. Thanks!

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[TX_Ovrlnd]

Any help on where to place the pad of the floor jack? Once up, I have 6 ton jack stands that I'll put under the frame. I have a garden variety 3 ton garage floor jack. Thanks!

Jack each side up and place the stands, don't be lazy!

 

[cv2065]

Jack each side up and place the stands, don't be lazy!

No rush here. I'll be taking my time. Under the LCA brackets or frame?

 

[jbcrane]

Hey guys. I'm putting a Dynatrac 2.5" lift on my 22' Wrangler Sahara tomorrow and I want to get the Jeep up all in the air at one time. I've read bunches of threads in regarding to jacking points. My first choice was the axle tube, where there is about a 4" section to the left of the pumpkin, but not sure about the stress there.

Second choice is the pumpkin. Issue I have is where do you all place the jack pad on the pumpkin? Careful to not hit the diff cover, there is about a 1" flat lip at the front of the diff, but that looks too small for the floor jack pad. The rest of the pumpkin is curved, so hard to get a flat spot until you get the back where it meets the driveshaft. Plenty of room there, but is that too far back against the driveshaft? Seems like I had more choices with my old JK.

3rd choice is under the LCA bracket and do one side at a time. I see the shock mount is welded there, so it causes some interference. Not sure if that mount would be damaged if the jack lifts from that point?

Once up, I have 6 ton jack stands that I'll put under the frame. I have a garden variety 3 ton garage floor jack. Thanks!

I've seen and heard of others jack on the pumpkin but I won't do it... just seems like a bad idea. I'm in favor of using the jack points described in the user manual - under the axle tube - then placing the jack stands under the frame. Seems like the most trouble-free approach to me. I also have a thick, rubberized pad on the floor jack's contact disc so it's not steel on steel. There's a little give at contact. Good luck.

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[limeade]

If I'm jacking up the Jeep to raise both wheels off the ground (in situations such as installing a lift, etc.), I put the jack pad directly under the diff (front or rear). As I lift the axle off the ground and get close to max lift height for the jack, I support the axle with a jack stand towards the outer ends of the axle tube. I then place a stack of 2x6's between the jack pad and diff to lift axle even higher. Once I get enough height, I use my second set of jack stands to support the frame.

It is VERY important to support the frame when installing lifts since you need to manipulate the height and angle of the axle you are working on. It's helpful to have a second set of jack stands to use to support the axle. You'll use the floor jack to manipulate the axle. If you're replacing control arms, especially adjustable or longer than stock, then you will use the floor jack under the pinion to tilt the diff up/down in order to get the control arms installed. This technique is also used to adjust/set pinion angle.

When removing or installing the springs, I'll lower the axle as low as possible and then use a jack under the knuckle on the opposite side of the spring I'm working on. Jack the opposite side up, which will force the side you're working on down, allowing for maximum clearance to remove/install springs. This may not be necessary with shorter lifts, but works like a charm with 2.5" and up lift springs.

I've never had an issue using the bottom of the diff the LCA mounts as a jacking point. I have used the actual tube as a jacking point, but I don't make a habit out of it, especially in situations where I have the wheels off the ground for anything other than a short amount of time (such as the short amount of time it takes to put jack stands under the axle).

 

[TX_Ovrlnd]

No rush here. I'll be taking my time. Under the LCA brackets or frame?

I stick to the frame when I lift any vehicle. YMMV.

 

[cv2065]

I've seen and heard of others jack on the pumpkin but I won't do it... just seems like a bad idea. I'm in favor of using the jack points described in the user manual - under the axle tube - then placing the jack stands under the frame. Seems like the most trouble-free approach to me. I also have a thick, rubberized pad on the floor jack's contact disc so it's not steel on steel. There's a little give at contact. Good luck.

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Any issues with the shock mount getting in the way of your jack pad since its welded right there and not flush? Maybe I just need some rubberized pads to conform to it a bit. Or I could just use the provided scissor jack and hope it doesn't go flying across the room...:P

 

[cv2065]

If I'm jacking up the Jeep to raise both wheels off the ground (in situations such as installing a lift, etc.), I put the jack pad directly under the diff (front or rear).

Thanks for the tips. Where exactly do you place the jack pad on the diff? I don't think it has a smooth section on it anywhere?

 

[limeade]

Thanks for the tips. Where exactly do you place the jack pad on the diff? I don't think it has a smooth section on it anywhere?

Directly underneath. The front lower lip of diff sits in the cradle. Been doing it this way for years on numerous Jeeps and trucks.

 

[Rhinebeck01]

I am an older fruck (73 yo) .... For years and years, on various vehicles I used / would use the pumpkin.. Never an issue.. I have Jay Walked for years too, and so far have not been run over...

SURE, there are times, no foul if you use the pumpkin.... but to be honest when I teach/explain to young guys and gals these days, I tell them it is best to avoid the pumpkin as there are far better ways to do the deed..

See, problem is depending on the vehicle, you can get into real issues using the pumpkin, even if the vehicle has a pumpkin that is high enough up to get a floor jack under.. Also, there are lots of vehicles that you do not dare jack up using the pumpkin..

Anyway, I just tell guys/gals... in general.... that unless you really have a clue lets say .... just avoid using the pumpkin is best... .....There are better points use..

Last young guy I told this too, called me two weeks after I told him to avoid using the pumpkin... He decided to use the pumpkin and of course, somehow in the process really damaged the lip/bottom of the cover on the rear diff....

CAREFUL...... The friggin vehicle can and will fall on you, regardless how you jack it up. Always, always keep this in mind... Lots of guys get killed each year ... or lose a leg(s) doing tire rotations and lifts and such.

 

[John VonJeep]

Also, do not install a lift during an earthquake. I've always felt so awful for this poor bastard...

https://jalopnik.com/man-working-on-his-jeep-died-after-the-vehicle-apparent-1836258526

 

[jbcrane]

Any issues with the shock mount getting in the way of your jack pad since its welded right there and not flush? Maybe I just need some rubberized pads to conform to it a bit. Or I could just use the provided scissor jack and hope it doesn't go flying across the room...:P

That’s what I have, found it on Amazon and it sits on the round part of the Jack. Think it was about $10. Wondered too if something like a hockey puck would work… this is better because it fits completely over the steel cradle and won’t slide around under load.

 

[cv2065]

Thanks for all of the replies. I tried using a piece of wood under the end of the axles, but couldn't get it high enough. So I moved on to a 2x4 under the control arm brackets. Worked great.

Although Dynatech says you don't have to remove the front track bar, I did to get the passenger side to droop enough, and now its a bit misaligned by 1/2" or so. I'm assuming that I'll have to reconnect once on the ground and it will line up. Does that sound about right?

 

[limeade]

Thanks for all of the replies. I tried using a piece of wood under the end of the axles, but couldn't get it high enough. So I moved on to a 2x4 under the control arm brackets. Worked great.

Although Dynatech says you don't have to remove the front track bar, I did to get the passenger side to droop enough, and now its a bit misaligned by 1/2" or so. I'm assuming that I'll have to reconnect once on the ground and it will line up. Does that sound about right?

Secure the the track bar in the frame side mount. Then you'll need to use a ratchet strap to pull the axle the direction needed to get the track bar to line up with the axle mount. Secure one side of the strap to the frame and the other side to the axle. As you tighten the strap, it will pull the axle towards the side where you placed the strap on the frame. It's easier to have someone work the strap while you lineup the track bar in the axle mount.

An alternative method to is have some one turn the wheels or push the body side to side. This will also move the axle to get the TB mount lined up. I personally like the strap method as it's a little more exact. But either way works.

 

[cv2065]

Secure the the track bar in the frame side mount. Then you'll need to use a ratchet strap to pull the axle the direction needed to get the track bar to line up with the axle mount. Secure one side of the strap to the frame and the other side to the axle. As you tighten the strap, it will pull the axle towards the side where you placed the strap on the frame. It's easier to have someone work the strap while you lineup the track bar in the axle mount.

An alternative method to is have some one turn the wheels or push the body side to side. This will also move the axle to get the TB mount lined up. I personally like the strap method as it's a little more exact. But either way works.

Thanks for the tips! That’s while on the ground correct?

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