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Yet another axle strength question

CptFloridaMan

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I’ve been researching and kinda debating on what to do. I definitely want lockers; I’m not too comfortable with the stock lsd and how jerky BLD feels when trying climb over obstacles sometimes.

Im debating on building or swapping while currently running 35s but when it’s time for new tires monkey brain might tell me to get 37s.

Rubi axles from allmoparparts runs about $4,900 with freight shipping and then building my m186/m220 runs about the same($4,800-$5,000) depending on labor.

I’ve seen people destroy axles at the FAD but how are sport shafts and gears holding up to big tires? Is the spline count 32 vs 27 that drastic?
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Dyolfknip74

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I’ve been researching and kinda debating on what to do. I definitely want lockers; I’m not too comfortable with the stock lsd and how jerky BLD feels when trying climb over obstacles sometimes.

Im debating on building or swapping while currently running 35s but when it’s time for new tires monkey brain might tell me to get 37s.

Rubi axles from allmoparparts runs about $4,900 with freight shipping and then building my m186/m220 runs about the same($4,800-$5,000) depending on labor.

I’ve seen people destroy axles at the FAD but how are sport shafts and gears holding up to big tires? Is the spline count 32 vs 27 that drastic?
What kind of wheeling do you do? BLD is going to be on every OEM axle, it's part of the traction control system.
 

entropy

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$4900 for brand new axles shipped is the best deal I've seen in a while. Go for it.

Otherwise you can wing it and get a front torq locker $400 and either leave the LSD on the rear or get a selectable in there. You are looking at about $2000 or so including labor if you shop around. You can also consider throwing a re-gear and might find someone to do it all for 3k. I wouldn't throw more money at it than that.
 

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CptFloridaMan

CptFloridaMan

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Hell I would if he was local to me lol. I’m def leaning towards the rubi axles and just being done with it.

What kind of wheeling do you do? BLD is going to be on every OEM axle, it's part of the traction control system.
For now it’s very light rock crawling but I’m planning a trip with some buddies soon after a breakdown run we had.
 
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Hell I would if he was local to me lol. I’m def leaning towards the rubi axles and just being done with it.


For now it’s very light rock crawling but I’m planning a trip with some buddies soon after a breakdown run we had.
I've been in your shoes and that was the cleanest and easiest option. After that we only bought Rubis because of our wheeling style.
 

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Hell I would if he was local to me lol. I’m def leaning towards the rubi axles and just being done with it.


For now it’s very light rock crawling but I’m planning a trip with some buddies soon after a breakdown run we had.
.....it's enough to justify the cabbage and ass pain for new axles? This sounds like the perfect justification for some take offs. Might even be worth looking into shipping from that link in Cali although I'm sure there are some closer.

Have you used lockers before? I'm not being obtuse, legit question.
This forum will make you feel like if you do any wheeling it has to be fully locked front and rear at all times when in reality very few people "need" lockers for their DD.

A lot of times a winch/bumper is a much cheaper/easier option.

Food for thought.
 

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It’s a slippery slope. I’d stick with a FAD front axle and 37’s if this is your daily. Super super capable and avoids a lot of the headaches. So rubi axles, regeared, and see if you can truss them while they’re still in the crate to save some scratch. If you somehow twist an axle shaft or snap a u joint, upgrade to chromoly as they fail. There’s a good chance they won’t though.
Remember your tie rod won’t come over. If the crate axle has it, great. Otherwise, budget accordingly for a new one.
 
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CptFloridaMan

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.....it's enough to justify the cabbage and ass pain for new axles? This sounds like the perfect justification for some take offs. Might even be worth looking into shipping from that link in Cali although I'm sure there are some closer.

Have you used lockers before? I'm not being obtuse, legit question.
This forum will make you feel like if you do any wheeling it has to be fully locked front and rear at all times when in reality very few people "need" lockers for their DD.

A lot of times a winch/bumper is a much cheaper/easier option.

Food for thought.
Id rather spend on take offs if I find a set in Florida or someone willing to ship. Id settle worst case on dropping coin on a new set if I can’t find a set.

As for lockers, never used them before honestly. I honestly don’t “need” but it’s more a want to do and prepare for replacing the LSD that’s probably shot at 40k miles in my jeep. It’s sorta the idea to “future proof” it for what I’ll do. More importantly monkey brain also tells me hooning around is gonna be a fun time with a locked rear end.

It’s a slippery slope. I’d stick with a FAD front axle and 37’s if this is your daily. Super super capable and avoids a lot of the headaches. So rubi axles, regeared, and see if you can truss them while they’re still in the crate to save some scratch. If you somehow twist an axle shaft or snap a u joint, upgrade to chromoly as they fail. There’s a good chance they won’t though.
Remember your tie rod won’t come over. If the crate axle has it, great. Otherwise, budget accordingly for a new one.
It’s an extremely slippery slope. Shop I spoke to tried talking me into a dynatrac 44/60 combo but that’s more axle than I’ll ever need. Hell rubi axles are pretty much the most I’ll need or want. The plan would be to buy new steering and truss the axle before installing also.
 

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Id rather spend on take offs if I find a set in Florida or someone willing to ship. Id settle worst case on dropping coin on a new set if I can’t find a set.

As for lockers, never used them before honestly. I honestly don’t “need” but it’s more a want to do and prepare for replacing the LSD that’s probably shot at 40k miles in my jeep. It’s sorta the idea to “future proof” it for what I’ll do. More importantly monkey brain also tells me hooning around is gonna be a fun time with a locked rear end.


It’s an extremely slippery slope. Shop I spoke to tried talking me into a dynatrac 44/60 combo but that’s more axle than I’ll ever need. Hell rubi axles are pretty much the most I’ll need or want. The plan would be to buy new steering and truss the axle before installing also.
Be sure to compare brand-new MOPAR axles from the dealer, from allmoparparts.com (with custom shipping quote, not the auto generated one), and used ones. I'm in the Pacific Northwest, and every time the new axles have come in as a better deal than take-offs. People sell the take-offs for brand-new prices. I'd rather pay the tax or shipping and have a non-abused, brand-new axle.
 
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CptFloridaMan

CptFloridaMan

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Be sure to compare brand-new MOPAR axles from the dealer, from allmoparparts.com (with custom shipping quote, not the auto generated one), and used ones. I'm in the Pacific Northwest, and every time the new axles have come in as a better deal than take-offs. People sell the take-offs for brand-new prices. I'd rather pay the tax or shipping and have a non-abused, brand-new axle.
Of course, I’ve got a buddy whose uncle works for a mopar dealer, just waiting to hear back on how nice of a discount it is.

The used rubi axle market for the last two years has felt like the car market bubble.
 
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Assuming you have the M220 rear as you mentioned the LSD. Another option to consider if you are thinking of regearing your stock axles is a JT front m210.
 

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Have you used lockers before? I'm not being obtuse, legit question.
This forum will make you feel like if you do any wheeling it has to be fully locked front and rear at all times when in reality very few people "need" lockers for their DD.

A lot of times a winch/bumper is a much cheaper/easier option.
What? I mostly see use them only when required. I've never seen fully locked front and rear at all times can you cite a few threads?

A lot of times a winch/bumper is a much cheaper/easier option.
Sounds like you don't wheel much.

Get yourself a set of Rubi take off axles and be done with it.
Exactly.

It’s an extremely slippery slope. Shop I spoke to tried talking me into a dynatrac 44/60 combo but that’s more axle than I’ll ever need. Hell rubi axles are pretty much the most I’ll need or want. The plan would be to buy new steering and truss the axle before installing also.
I never understood the reasoning for such unbalanced axles. Yes, in some conditions going uphill you can put more stress on the rear, but Dynatrac 60/80 is too much. Much better to get stronger front axles and a matched set like Fusion of DSTRAC 70's.
 

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What? I mostly see use them only when required. I've never seen fully locked front and rear at all times can you cite a few threads?



Sounds like you don't wheel much.


Exactly.



I never understood the reasoning for such unbalanced axles. Yes, in some conditions going uphill you can put more stress on the rear, but Dynatrac 60/80 is too much. Much better to get stronger front axles and a matched set like Fusion of DSTRAC 70's.
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