Winch install: Project Overkill

[YBABRAT]

Nice job, I thought it was stock at first glance.

Thanks! Just the clear plastic plate that has some cloudy areas from crazy glue.

I really did not think of using the console but there is no area near the driver's seat that had clearance.

The interior aux wires can be ran up into the console bolt down area, but that is as far as they go. The only other wire I may use is ignition power non switched.

Now the trick is to find the Aux 3 wire going through fire wall. Once found disconnect and route the XY-CD63 output wire and connect to the Aux 3 external wire. My Solenoid is close enough for a connection without a splice.

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[YBABRAT]

They are schematic representations for shared or common ground. There is no isolation DC to DC power on the XY-CD63, so if you were to leave out the ground connection from the XY-CD63 output, it would be safe and not required. At least one ground can be used... either input or output, since the two are connected internally within the XY-CD63.

 

[YBABRAT]

I understand the ground symbols. I'm asking whether the arrow at Aux Switch represents a diode, because you should probably have one between the Aux Switch and the Optional Switch.

Oh, that... it's a schematic symbol for input. If you see a symbol pointing away from a connection it's an output. Double symbols like // are truncated lines of connection, usually from another diagram.

 

[Wabujitsu]

Mine came with a switch so I installed it. My previous winch (Badland) didn't come with one, never a problem but I've read in case the winch shorts out it's good to have so it doesn't drain the battery. Easy enough.

John, that’s exactly how I wired my current Badland Apex winch too (except I mounted my switch on the sidewall by the battery). Keep it simple! I don’t care that I have to open the hood to flip the switch; on really heavy pulls I leave the hood up anyway, as a further barrier for the windshield in the event of a catastrophic line failure (in spite or running synth line, I’m still paranoid). It also cools off the engine compartment while I’m idling during a pull.

 

[YBABRAT]

You should probably have a diode between either Aux Switch and Vin + or Optional Switch and Vout +.

The aux switch controlls the aux relay for power. All automotive relays have a diode. The XY-CD63 uses a 30A relay with isolation to the controller circuit.

The XY-CD63 is a dual function charge / discharge controller. Only one function can be utilized. The discharge function is monitoring operational voltage during winching.

The control circuit is simple being that the aux switch relay is providing power, not a direct connection to vehical ignition. Any flyback from solenoid will go through aux relay diode.

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[THAW]

The aux switch controlls the aux relay for power. All automotive relays have a diode. The XY-CD63 uses a 30A relay with isolation to the controller circuit.

The XY-CD63 is a dual function charge / discharge controller. Only one function can be utilized. The discharge function is monitoring operational voltage during winching.

The control circuit is simple being that the aux switch relay is providing power, not a direct connection to vehical ignition. Any flyback from solenoid will go through aux relay diode.

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Without a diode (or fuse), at a minimum you're creating a long length of small gauge wire that is effectively unfused between the battery and the PDC/factory relay. In general, it's not advisable to create a potential backfeed into the factory wiring.

 

[Flip]

John, that’s exactly how I wired my current Badland Apex winch too (except I mounted my switch on the sidewall by the battery). Keep it simple! I don’t care that I have to open the hood to flip the switch; on really heavy pulls I leave the hood up anyway, as a further barrier for the windshield in the event of a catastrophic line failure (in spite or running synth line, I’m still paranoid). It also cools off the engine compartment while I’m idling during a pull.

I originally had mine mounted on the side, I made a nice bracket for it and I definitely prefer that location but I added a low profile snorkel and had to move it. I'm a firm believer in keeping things simple, sometimes less is better.

I have been contemplating, on removing my snorkel, I installed it as a means of cooler air. I have no intentions of going anywhere near water that deep. The way I set it up, I can go right back to stock. I'm on the fence.

 

[YBABRAT]

Without a diode (or fuse), at a minimum you're creating a long length of small gauge wire that is effectively unfused between the battery and the PDC/factory relay. In general, it's not advisable to create a potential backfeed into the factory wiring.

A fuse will not do anything for the cicuit. A diode is covered by aux relay. There is no back feed other than flyback from solenoid.

The wire gauge is rated by factory at 15A, the total current of the circuit is 2.2A to 3A given at operating temprature.

I really don't understand where I am supplying voltage into the system. It's all on the aux circuit. The discharge monitor just disconnects the aux switch power when voltage drops below a user's set point. It is a passive system.

 

[YBABRAT]

I originally had mine mounted on the side, I made a nice bracket for it and I definitely prefer that location but I added a low profile snorkel and had to move it. I'm a firm believer in keeping things simple, sometimes less is better.

I have been contemplating, on removing my snorkel, I installed it as a means of cooler air. I have no intentions of going anywhere near water that deep. The way I set it up, I can go right back to stock. I'm on the fence.

That is as simple as you can get for switching a high current connection.

 

[Flip]

That is as simple as you can get for switching a high current connection.

On my TJ I didn't even have a switch or a fuse. Positive & negative to the battery, done. That was as simple as it could get.

 

[YBABRAT]

@YBABRAT

Question: If there was a problem with the winch overloading/drawing more amps than it should, will the solenoid act as a fuse to stop the draw between the winch and the battery?

The solenoid won't do so, unless you have a bad battery or charge system.... if running engine. The rapid click when have a battery that is drained. My circuit is to prevent overly high amperage from causing issues. There are 2 modes to winching. One with engine running and the other straight from battery only. The controller will monitor voltage during current draw. If an overload should happen... it will trigger the controller to disconnect the solenoid power. Once triggered.... you have 16 minutes to isolate the issue before the circuit enables after recharge or cooling to assist the next try at winching.

 

[Flip]

The solenoid won't do so, unless you have a bad battery or charge system.... if running engine. The rapid click when have a battery that is drained. My circuit is to prevent overly high amperage from causing issues. There are 2 modes to winching. One with engine running and the other straight from battery only. The controller will monitor voltage during current draw. If an overload should happen... it will trigger the controller to disconnect the solenoid power. Once triggered.... you have 16 minutes to isolate the issue before the circuit enables after recharge or cooling to assist the next try at winching.

I'm thinking a fuse at the battery to prevent melting the red cable might not be a bad idea. A very smart industrial electrician once told me the fuse protects the wire. Just a thought. You certainly seem to know what you're doing.

 

[YBABRAT]

On my TJ I didn't even have a switch or a fuse. Positive & negative to the battery, done. That was as simple as it could get.

But that is not what was given as example. It don't pertain to this thread.

 

[Deleted User 38384]

Now that's a kill switch for you!!!

 

[THAW]

A fuse will not do anything for the cicuit. A diode is covered by aux relay. There is no back feed other than flyback from solenoid.

The wire gauge is rated by factory at 15A, the total current of the circuit is 2.2A to 3A given at operating temprature.

I really don't understand where I am supplying voltage into the system. It's all on the aux circuit. The discharge monitor just disconnects the aux switch power when voltage drops below a user's set point. It is a passive system.

Your circuit diagram shows a battery connection to the Aux Switch positive wire, making that wire hot (and unfused) into the PDC when the Optional Switch and XY-CD63 are closed with the Aux Switch off.

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