Who has the best front geometry correction brackets?

[Crowbar]

For a JLU who make the best front geometry correction brackets? Strongest? 1 piece? Best engineered?

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[Not2Late]

I've always been partial to AEV. Have used them on my JKs and JT. Used to be 2-piece, but they have had a one-piece design for a few years. They have several holes/settings to work with different size lifts.

 

[Zandcwhite]

The metalcloak ones are the most solid ones I've seen. No worries about dragging them in the rocks and they have multiple holes for the upper arms too.

 

[3TV]

Another vote for Metalcloak. They are super stout, and they move the lower control arm inboard a half inch or so, which improves tire clearance with oversized tires to maintain your turning radius without needing such wide offset wheels.

I just changed from a 2 1/2" Metalcloak lift to a 4 1/2" Metalcloak lift and added the geometry correction brackets at the same time. I moved up from 37" to 40" tires at the same time and installed the 40s on a set of 17x9 wheels with -12 offset a few days before installing the taller lift. The 40s rubbed hard on the lower control arms at full steering lock, and I thought that I would have to adjust the steering stops to be able to use wheels with such a low negative offset. Most people run -25 to -38 offset for 40s. With the lift installed and the geometry correction brackets in place there is no tire rub at full steering lock. I couldn't see how this was possible, then after looking I noticed the control arms were moved inboard. Bonus!

I also noticed that square edged bumps on road are absorbed much better, with harshness completely eliminated. That is partly due to the flatter control arm angle with my 4 1/2" lift than I had with my 2 1/2" lift. Another bonus! The other part is that I think the current King 2.5" adjustable shocks are tuned better than my prior Fox 2.5" DSC shocks were. Despite both sets being tuned by Accutune, the Kings are significantly better.

 

[Mx5red]

My AEV ones are a little squished from rocks on the flange, juuuust enough to make it hard to get a socket on. I'll have to bend/cut them back. I'd look at metalcloak if starting fresh. I haven't looked in years but I also think the Teraflex ones have a separate cover or skid you can buy.

 

[c20040215]

I opted for Teraflex and their reinforce blades, which add 2 more mounting points and overall material. The bracket by itself is very strong and adding those blades makes me feel better. If you are ok with additional cost.

Based on my experience, if you have after market lower control arms, the joints housing are most likely going to be the lowest points. If you hit anything, 90% of the time the contact point is on your lower arm since they are a lot bigger then stock.

I have no experience with Metalcloak brackets but I have no doubt they are as strong as brackets get.

 

[Dadgummit]

+1 for Teraflex. All of the different brackets from the different brands seem pretty much similar. Sheet metal brackets hanging down from the frame asking a rock to smack into them. Teraflex saw the weak point that the brackets can add so they created the reinforcement brackets to make them stronger.

 

[Zandcwhite]

+1 for Teraflex. All of the different brackets from the different brands seem pretty much similar. Sheet metal brackets hanging down from the frame asking a rock to smack into them. Teraflex saw the weak point that the brackets can add so they created the reinforcement brackets to make them stronger.

Most are sheetmetal, metalcloak are 3/16" steel fully welded with a built in gusset that bolts to the bottom of the frame (and they don't charge extra for it or sell it separately).

 

[Jeeps2Little]

Another vote for the MetalCloak. They are stout. Have the Mopar lift on a sport and it made a big difference in what we felt on the road and small square edges. Can only imagine that better tuned shocks would make it even better.

 

[c20040215]

Teraflex and metalcloak are 3/16 steel welded together. EVO and rancho look like 3/16 as well but I can't confirm. Only AEV is thin stamped steel sheet metal. But like I said earlier, if you have after market control arms, the control arm bushing housings are the lowest point (at least in my case.. teraflex brackets + Clayton arms).

When I was in the market for a set, I narrowed it down to Teraflex and metalcloak. Metalcloak has 3 upper arm hole locations for small adjustments, which is a plus. But personally the color is an eye sore that I couldn't get past.

As shown below, the damages on the brackets were done before I upgraded the control arms. The control are is about 1/4 lower.

 

[Roky]

For a JLU who make the best front geometry correction brackets? Strongest? 1 piece? Best engineered?

Metalcloak brackets are the best imo…..

 

[3TV]

The Metalcloak geometry correction brackets do an accurate job of maintaining alignment. As stated in my post above, I just changed from a Metalcloak 2 1/2" lift to a Metalcloak 4 1/2" lift on my JL, and added the geometry correction brackets at the same time. Alignment had been correct before, and all I changed was springs, shocks and the geometry correction brackets. I had already centered the axles and steering wheel prior to having a professional alignment done on my Jeep today. The owner of the shop called me after a few hours, sounding a little surprised. He said "we didn't have to change anything, it was all in spec". They had done the alignment two years ago after the 2 1/2" suspension was installed, and did this alignment as well. He printed out a report of both alignments so I could see the difference. On one side caster changed by 0.1 degrees and on the other side it didn't change at all. from the 2 1/2" lift to the 4 1/2" lift

 

[Eleven71Design]

RockJock brackets are thick and well reinforced. They make heavy duty items.

 

[UncleJimmy]

Another vote for Metalcloak. They are super stout, and they move the lower control arm inboard a half inch or so, which improves tire clearance with oversized tires to maintain your turning radius without needing such wide offset wheels.

I just changed from a 2 1/2" Metalcloak lift to a 4 1/2" Metalcloak lift and added the geometry correction brackets at the same time. I moved up from 37" to 40" tires at the same time and installed the 40s on a set of 17x9 wheels with -12 offset a few days before installing the taller lift. The 40s rubbed hard on the lower control arms at full steering lock, and I thought that I would have to adjust the steering stops to be able to use wheels with such a low negative offset. Most people run -25 to -38 offset for 40s. With the lift installed and the geometry correction brackets in place there is no tire rub at full steering lock. I couldn't see how this was possible, then after looking I noticed the control arms were moved inboard. Bonus!

I also noticed that square edged bumps on road are absorbed much better, with harshness completely eliminated. That is partly due to the flatter control arm angle with my 4 1/2" lift than I had with my 2 1/2" lift. Another bonus! The other part is that I think the current King 2.5" adjustable shocks are tuned better than my prior Fox 2.5" DSC shocks were. Despite both sets being tuned by Accutune, the Kings are significantly better.

Would love to see some video of those king RRs over some fast terrain..... Nice build.

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