Trickle Charging Procedure

[Petey]

Press the start button twice without pressing on the brake. Switch to the voltage page on the driver's console. What does it read?

Now crank the engine. What does the voltage read now. The higher it reads now the more it concerns me. High readings are the alternator compensating for things.

I'd have the dealer check the IBS, load test the batteries (maybe individually and collectively,) and check the electrical system for stray current drops.

I noticed the same also.. as of late I installed one of those Chinese OBD connector gauges that they sell on the net. I noticed the thing gives a warning right after shut off by ESS and upon startup again showing the voltage in low 12s or upper 11s Also , that little red electrical charge warning light comes on more often then it used to do when I first drove off the lot. Mine used to show about 12.7 to 13 volts on the cars readout also , but now, I see numbers as high as in the 14s.

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[WranglerMan]

...and perhaps systematically switching off between these identical batteries which is the main, and which one is the ESS/Aux---to wear them evenly...

I actually considered doing this with my dual setup that uses identical batteries but after looking at the design I’m rethinking this and this is why:

On my system the batteries are connected and or isolated via a smart relay and upon startup once the relay sees the primary crank battery at 13.2 volts for several minutes it closes and connects the two batteries together so it’s basically one big 12 volt 128 ah battery, I don’t use ESS so there is no real drain on the batteries stopping, once stopped and shut down the Cole Hersee relay does pull what I consider a lot of power to stay closed connecting the two batteries but once the main drops down to 12.7 +/-.1 it disconnects and there is no additional parasitic draw from the main except what the JL would normally pull from thru the PDC by default and what my SSS module pulls which is minimal, my winch is connected to the aux battery on the +/- bus bars but I’m not sure if the wince solenoid stays energized and pulls a small amount OT not at rest.

I conducted daily voltage checks on my new setup for about 10 days under different conditions and my main crank never got lower than 12.55-12.60 after being parked for a few days and the aux never dropped below 12.7-12.8 and as I said once started and the main sees 13.2 for several minutes they are connected as one battery again so I currently see no benefit to rotating the batteries, I do think if I had a fridge or similar pulling the aux down lower or taxed the main more by using ESS I would consider this a good option though

here are my battery readings during my test

Day #1 = 12.8/12.7
Day #2 = 12.8/12.8
Day #3 =12.7/12.7
Day #4 = 12.6/12.6
Day #5 =12.6/12.7
Day #6 = 12.6/12.7 (0.7 isolator closed)
Day #7 = 12.59/12.64 (150 isolator open) *** Turned on acc’s to test disconnect ***

** The resistance on the isolator is pretty easy to determine if open or closed and the closed runs from 0-2 ohms and open runs over 100 ohms **

** Resting voltage 24 hrs after driving**

Day #8 = 12.6/12.6 (isolator closed)
Day #9 = 12.6/12.7 ( isolator open
Day #10 = 12.6/12.7 ( isolator open
Day #11 = 12.6/12.6 ( isolator closed
Day #12 =12.6/12.6 isolator open )

And here is the full unofficial review if you get bored and need something to read https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ll-by-tank-customs-and-charger-testing.61493/

I do think the biggest thing we all can do regardless of what setup we run is to practice good battery upkeep, this was preached to me by several battery makers and also the folks that design, build and test chargers and correct charging is paramount as under and over charging is just as bad as not doing anything so currently I do weekly weekly top offs with a NOCO 10 and once a month I do a recondition with a Odyssey 20 and the Odyssey does a deep cycle 6 stage charging process and holds the batteries at a set voltage and amp rating correct for my batteries ( Usually takes 8 hrs ) so I do this when it’s parked for several days.

Im not going to preach to everyone that they need to run out and get a dual setup as the cost is pretty high but in my case since I use my aux to power a winch and compressor and also like the idea of having a boost in the background if needed it gives me piece of mind

Another thing I was concerned over was cyclic discharges and it affect on battery life but that’s a whole other can of worms to open

 

[2020Sport]

. I also wouldn’t ever waste money on Amsoil, a catch can, or a CAI.

Why do you consider AMSOIL a waste of your money?

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Why do you consider AMSOIL a waste of your money?

Heh. Took longer than I expected for this reply.

 

[Gee-pah]

I actually considered doing this with my dual setup that uses identical batteries but after looking at the design I’m rethinking this and this is why:

On my system the batteries are connected and or isolated via a smart relay and upon startup once the relay sees the primary crank battery at 13.2 volts for several minutes it closes and connects the two batteries together so it’s basically one big 12 volt 128 ah battery, I don’t use ESS so there is no real drain on the batteries stopping, once stopped and shut down the Cole Hersee relay does pull what I consider a lot of power to stay closed connecting the two batteries but once the main drops down to 12.7 +/-.1 it disconnects and there is no additional parasitic draw from the main except what the JL would normally pull from thru the PDC by default and what my SSS module pulls which is minimal, my winch is connected to the aux battery on the +/- bus bars but I’m not sure if the wince solenoid stays energized and pulls a small amount OT not at rest.

I conducted daily voltage checks on my new setup for about 10 days under different conditions and my main crank never got lower than 12.55-12.60 after being parked for a few days and the aux never dropped below 12.7-12.8 and as I said once started and the main sees 13.2 for several minutes they are connected as one battery again so I currently see no benefit to rotating the batteries, I do think if I had a fridge or similar pulling the aux down lower or taxed the main more by using ESS I would consider this a good option though

here are my battery readings during my test

Day #1 = 12.8/12.7
Day #2 = 12.8/12.8
Day #3 =12.7/12.7
Day #4 = 12.6/12.6
Day #5 =12.6/12.7
Day #6 = 12.6/12.7 (0.7 isolator closed)
Day #7 = 12.59/12.64 (150 isolator open) *** Turned on acc’s to test disconnect ***

** The resistance on the isolator is pretty easy to determine if open or closed and the closed runs from 0-2 ohms and open runs over 100 ohms **

** Resting voltage 24 hrs after driving**

Day #8 = 12.6/12.6 (isolator closed)
Day #9 = 12.6/12.7 ( isolator open
Day #10 = 12.6/12.7 ( isolator open
Day #11 = 12.6/12.6 ( isolator closed
Day #12 =12.6/12.6 isolator open )

And here is the full unofficial review if you get bored and need something to read https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...ll-by-tank-customs-and-charger-testing.61493/

I do think the biggest thing we all can do regardless of what setup we run is to practice good battery upkeep, this was preached to me by several battery makers and also the folks that design, build and test chargers and correct charging is paramount as under and over charging is just as bad as not doing anything so currently I do weekly weekly top offs with a NOCO 10 and once a month I do a recondition with a Odyssey 20 and the Odyssey does a deep cycle 6 stage charging process and holds the batteries at a set voltage and amp rating correct for my batteries ( Usually takes 8 hrs ) so I do this when it’s parked for several days.

Im not going to preach to everyone that they need to run out and get a dual setup as the cost is pretty high but in my case since I use my aux to power a winch and compressor and also like the idea of having a boost in the background if needed it gives me piece of mind

I'd agree Will. In your case switching which is the main battery, given the time both batteries are spent in parallel and your absence of choosing an ESS scenario is probably much more battery science academic than beneficial.

 

[WranglerMan]

I'd agree Will. In your case switching which is the main battery, given the time both batteries are spent in parallel and your absence of choosing an ESS scenario is probably much more battery science academic than beneficial.

I would likely consider battery switching a viable option if say I was having battery issues but at present my JL charging system is perfect as the smart charging system works as it’s designed and regulates voltage from the alternator as needed but the max you get from the JL is 12.8-12.9 and then the smart alternator goes on vacation but this can be changed with the Jscan scan app that I’m looking to get up and running the first of the year, you can control what the voltage limits are and this intrigues me as it would allow the batteries to be charged at a higher rate by the alternator

 

[2020Sport]

Heh. Took longer than I expected for this reply.

Sorry I kept you waiting. So why do you think AMSOIL is a waste of money?

 

[Gee-pah]

I would likely consider battery switching a viable option if say I was having battery issues but at present my JL charging system is perfect as the smart charging system works as it’s designed and regulates voltage from the alternator as needed but the max you get from the JL is 12.8-12.9 and then the smart alternator goes on vacation but this can be changed with the Jscan scan app that I’m looking to get up and running the first of the year, you can control what the voltage limits are and this intrigues me as it would allow the batteries to be charged at a higher rate by the alternator

Will, if you go the Jscan route you'll obviously need, in addition to the app, parts like these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082PTBZ6K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGB4873/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1



I also highly recommend this: https://www.zautomotive.com/product/sgw-extension-cable/

The immediately prior link to the SGW extention cord makes getting the SGW gateway 12 + 8 cable in and out so much easier.

Good luck!

 

[johnnyj]

I charge all my stuff with a motorcycle battery tender. It only charges at 3amps, nice and slow. Takes a little longer, sure, but I connect it when I park every day and let it do it's thing overnight. It goes into float mode when the batteries are charged. Never had an issue with...jeez...5-6 jeeps and 4 different bikes I've been using it on now.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

Sorry I kept you waiting. So why do you think AMSOIL is a waste of money?

Because for the average driver, myself included, it’s overkill. I understand it’s great stuff, but it’s expensive and not easy to procure (I don’t want to buy in bulk or pay shipping). I have no desire to go more than 5,000 miles between oil changes. I can say with 100% certainly that my engine is not going to die or underperform because I use $23 5qt jugs of Mobile-1 from Walmart. (Usually cheaper than that, because it’s frequently on sale or has a rebate.)

If you tell me I can get Amsoil for a similar price to Mobile-1, I’m all ears. Otherwise, it’s just a waste of my money.

 

[2020Sport]

Because for the average driver, myself included, it’s overkill. I understand it’s great stuff, but it’s expensive and not easy to procure (I don’t want to buy in bulk or pay shipping). I have no desire to go more than 5,000 miles between oil changes. I can say with 100% certainly that my engine is not going to die or underperform because I use $23 5qt jugs of Mobile-1 from Walmart. (Usually cheaper than that, because it’s frequently on sale or has a rebate.)

If you tell me I can get Amsoil for a similar price to Mobile-1, I’m all ears. Otherwise, it’s just a waste of my money.

AMSOIL is available starting at under $5 a quart, easy to procure, and free 2 day shipping or warehouse pickup available. I think Mobil 1 had a recent price increase. The lowest I see at Walmart.com is $24.97 for a 5 quart jug which is more than AMSOIL starts at.

 

[OldGuyNewJeep]

AMSOIL is available starting at under $5 a quart, easy to procure, and free 2 day shipping available. I think Mobil 1 had a recent price increase. The lowest I see at Walmart.com is $24.97 which is more than AMSOIL starts at.

If you’re selling $5qt (local pickup or free shipping, I’ll buy it).

 

[WranglerMan]

I charge all my stuff with a motorcycle battery tender. It only charges at 3amps, nice and slow. Takes a little longer, sure, but I connect it when I park every day and let it do it's thing overnight. It goes into float mode when the batteries are charged. Never had an issue with...jeez...5-6 jeeps and 4 different bikes I've been using it on now.

Johnny,

As I said one can use anything from a Deltran Tender Plus to a Odyssey 20 or CTEK high end one but I let the maker of my Full River 750 batteries tell me what I needed as they compared the charging patterns of the chargers I was looking at and matched them to the batteries I was getting.....Now will that give me years more longevity than just grabbing one that says it charges AGM batteries, I have no idea but I want to squeeze the most life I can from them by using a matched charger

 

[2020Sport]

If you’re selling $5qt (local pickup or free shipping, I’ll buy it).

The above is AMSOIL's 25,000 mile oil (Mobil 1 nor anyone else has anything comparable) starts under $10 a quart. The AMSOIL OE is similar to the Mobil 1 your are buying and I can sell it to you for $5 a quart if you have a qualifying business. Do you have a business?

 

[WranglerMan]

@Gee-pah i chose the exact same cable as the first link but for the BT OBD module I may go with OBD Link MX+ here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_TK63Fb3KGGCCB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The reason I’m looking at that particular BT OBD module is it gets very good reviews, is made in the USA and comes highly recommended by the JSCAN ppl and there are lots of apps that are paired ro work with it.

As far as the extender I had looked at that but for me getting to the ports is pretty easy and I polished down the connectors a long time ago and they pop out very easy, taking them out I don’t even have to look under the dash as I know exactly where they are I just sit on the running board, plugging back in yes I have to look but they easily snap into place so I will likely pass on the extender for now and see how it goes

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