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Trickle Charging Procedure

OldGuyNewJeep

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OldGuyNewJeep

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Then you would have to pay more. How about anyone else in your household?
I’ve been down this road, before. The only way for me to get the stuff is to pay a significant premium and shipping.

Anyway, we’ve derailed this thread enough. Have a good one. :beer:
 

Gee-pah

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@Gee-pah i chose the exact same cable as the first link but for the BT OBD module I may go with OBD Link MX+ here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JFRFJG6/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_TK63Fb3KGGCCB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The reason I’m looking at that particular BT OBD module is it gets very good reviews, is made in the USA and comes highly recommended by the JSCAN ppl and there are lots of apps that are paired ro work with it.

As far as the extender I had looked at that but for me getting to the ports is pretty easy and I polished down the connectors a long time ago and they pop out very easy, taking them out I don’t even have to look under the dash as I know exactly where they are I just sit on the running board, plugging back in yes I have to look but they easily snap into place so I will likely pass on the extender for now and see how it goes
Sure Will...The ODB 2 connector I referenced, let alone the 12 + 8 cable, while Jscan compatible, are by no means the last word in use with Jscan. If Jscan blesses your hardware--you're no worse off than any of use using the app.


Will--talk to me about polishing down the connectors...I'd like to hear more about that....
 

2020Sport

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I’ve been down this road, before. The only way for me to get the stuff is to pay a significant premium and shipping.

Anyway, we’ve derailed this thread enough. Have a good one. :beer:
You can pay less than retail and free shipping is available this month with a $50 purchase. Thanks!
 

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WranglerMan

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Sure Will...The ODB 2 connector I referenced, let alone the 12 + 8 cable, while Jscan compatible, are by no means the last word in use with Jscan. If Jscan blesses your hardware--you're no worse off than any of use using the app.


Will--talk to me about polishing down the connectors...I'd like to hear more about that....
I am also considering this https://www.zautomotive.com/product/bypass-module/ even though it’s 3x the cost of the cable as there would be no extra to deal with tucked under the dash and I could plug the OBD BT module directly into the OBD port and I would just leave the SGW bypassed all the time.

As far as polishing the connectors what I did since mine were super tight was laid 1K grit polishing paper on a flat piece of small ceramic tile and laid the connectors on the side the has the ribs and very lightly rubbed in a back and fourth action in the same direction that they plug in and did 5-10 passes then tried the fit and kept doing this until they easily snapped in and out.
 

aeonixx1001

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Well. I charged both batteries to 100% and the ESS Battery Charging message persisted. So, I have no clue how the ESS thinks, which is why I don't own a cat. If I drive for about 30 min at 45+ mph I can clear the message but it is a mystery.
Do you have a TAZER installed? If the Aux battery goes bad, the events that the TAZER creates will remain, for example lane change blinker, TPMS, pretty my anything changes. So unmarry the TAZER with all settings put back to stock, then re-marry, fixed all my problems after putting in new Batteries.
 

aeonixx1001

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Let me make this real simple, it sounds like a lot of confusion. If you want to charge your main battery (the big one you see) Simply disconnect the negative terminal with the one main bolt that holds all the wires to the battery ( so nothing is connected to the negative terminal) Move it well out of the way and hook the charger to the positive post and the negative post. This will charge the main battery.

To charge the Aux Battery. Connect the negative lead of the charger to the cluster you removed from the negative post (do not connect the main battery) Leave the red charging wire on the red terminal of the main Battery. This will only charge the Aux battery by taking the Main battery out of the circuit.
 

PatrickM

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Let me make this real simple, it sounds like a lot of confusion. If you want to charge your main battery (the big one you see) Simply disconnect the negative terminal with the one main bolt that holds all the wires to the battery ( so nothing is connected to the negative terminal) Move it well out of the way and hook the charger to the positive post and the negative post. This will charge the main battery.

To charge the Aux Battery. Connect the negative lead of the charger to the cluster you removed from the negative post (do not connect the main battery) Leave the red charging wire on the red terminal of the main Battery. This will only charge the Aux battery by taking the Main battery out of the circuit.
Thanks for this, it’s really clear!
 

lovespicyfood

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My daughter is off at college and we aren’t using her 2020 JL 4 cylinder enough to get the main battery charged.

Reading through this thread, is it correct to conclude that if I bought a Noco Genius 5 and just connected it to the traditional battery under the hood it would charge both batteries and maintain them?
 

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MikelMD

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Thanks guys. It’s surprising how varied the answers are. On a JL Facebook group they say never use the power socket with a smart charger.
pits odd to me as the socket in the rear of my 2l JLUR is rated at least 10 amps...it has a 20 amp fuse.
Others say a genius10 putting in 10 amps will overload the Aux battery, while some say the Genius10 is perfect....which I say first and is why I bought it.
the knowledge base here is superb. I’m getting a so key wired up the genius and I’ll use the rear socket.
Patrick, with the genius trickle charging, was your Ed’s battery dead? Or both are healthy?
 

PatrickM

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It’s a 2019 JL all I can say is that there wasn’t enough power to start the engine. Now I’ve had the smart charger on for all this time I’ve had no worries at all
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