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Transfer case nearly unusable

OldNavy

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We recently purchased a 2019 Wrangler Unlimited Sport (JL) as a lease-back vehicle. This Jeep is gorgeous and appeared basically new. After driving it on the main roads for a couple of weeks, we attempted to move the transfer case from 2H to N so that we could flat-tow it behind our RV. Yes, we followed all instructions regarding moving the auto transmission to neutral and the. Engine OFF before attempting to move the transfer case lever. It was nearly impossible for me to move the transfer case stick shift at all. After applying a full-strength effort, I was finally able to move the transfer case to neutral (N). However, it was even more difficult to move the transfer case back into 2H. The Dealer stated that it was probably never moved by the original owner and therefore is a “little stiff”. He also stated that we should keep shifting it and driving it in 4H and 4L to loosen the transfer case mechanism. I am thinking of having the dealer do this in case the transfer case is out of fluid or mechanically damaged. Any thoughts or experience of a similar nature would be greatly appreciated.

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Roll at 2-3mph and shift the transfer case. It doesn’t like to be moved when stationary. Usually manifests when changing between low and high gear, but it will likely solve your issue. I believe it’s even in the owners manual if I recall correctly.

Edit: also, check around the forum and in your owners manual, I think it might be more complicated to flat tow than just setting the t-case into neutral on the JLs. Anyone with experience mind chiming in? I want to say I’ve come across posts of issues when flat towing.
 

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Typically to put it into "N" you can leave your engine on, throw the transmission into neutral and crawl about 1-2 mph. This will allow for an easier transition
 

rohdawg

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“The Dealer stated that it was probably never moved by the original owner and therefore is a “little stiff”.”

Can’t believe I’m saying this, but your dealer is most likely correct.
Rolling like @Jeepeto and @j2.pictures stated will help. The more you use it, the easier it gets.
 

bjm00se

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“The Dealer stated that it was probably never moved by the original owner and therefore is a “little stiff”.”

Can’t believe I’m saying this, but your dealer is most likely correct.
Rolling like @Jeepeto and @j2.pictures stated will help. The more you use it, the easier it gets.
^ also clunking is typically normal as you shift, and as you get the hang of shifting it, it'll reduce.
 

Heimkehr

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The Dealer stated that it was probably never moved by the original owner and therefore is a “little stiff”.

He also stated that we should keep shifting it and driving it in 4H and 4L to loosen the transfer case mechanism. I am thinking of having the dealer do this in case the transfer case is out of fluid or mechanically damaged.
Given the age of your JLU and the possibility that the prior owner didn't in fact use 4WD very much, if at all, you might consider replacing the transfer case fluid (~2 qts. of ATF +4) as a prophylactic measure.

Doing so will provide dual peace of mind here: you learn how to do the work, and you also establish a maintenance baseline in terms of a fresh fluid fill. Alternately, the dealer could do the work, with you still having a mileage reference point for the new fluid in the case. ?
 

NWJeepr

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Remember to read the owner's manual instructions on "recreational towing" and "flat towing".
Typically they specify the transfer case to be in Neutral, and the automatic transmission shifted into park, Or in 1st gear, for manual transmissions. You do not want the transmission gears or output shaft spinning while the vehicle is being towed on all 4 wheels.
 

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I don't know about other ppls Wranglers, but with mine, you have to really slam that stick around if you want it to stick! If you just pull it, it doesn't want to stay or wont move very far. You need to yank it like you mean it!

I've only been in 4low a handful of times, honestly, I've always popped it into neutral at a stand still, and allowed about 5 seconds in each spot (4hi, neutral, 4low) before I attempt the next switch.

It's not one of those graceful things, you definitely need to pull it like you mean it.
 

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JJMalone

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Gears are really hard to shift when torque is applied through them, even a small amount. After coming out of the present gear engaged, the dogs may need to turn slightly to let them engage. 2H to 4H is most easily done when rolling as no disengaging is taking place, only the dogs in the xfer case are moved to engage the front drive shaft. 4H to neutral on to 4L can be done best if trans in neutral and jeep rolling very slowly. That way no torque is being applied through the drive train. Keep constant pressure on the xfer case lever to disengage 4H dogs and then patience to allow 4L dogs to line up to slide in. Don't slam or strong arm the lever. The shift linkage is not designed for gorilla drivers.


Late edit: The transfer case has synchros to allow 2H to 4H shifts on the fly. This lets you shift to 4H while traveling when you hit packed snow or icy spots. I believe they recommend not doing this over 60 mph as the faster you are going the harder the synchros have to work to spin up the front drive shaft to let the dogs in the xfr case engage.
 
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Valpo Jeep

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Our 2018 Sport S is extremely stiff as well. I don't think the previous owner used the 4WD system. It is stiff to the point that my wife takes the quattro Audi in the winter as she almost can't shift the Jeep. I need to exercise it more and get it broke in better. Gonna change the fluid as well as its got 70K miles on it.

We flat tow ours as well. Transfer case in neutral, trans in park, ignition off. The steering does not lock so it will just follow where its drug to.

I put an e-trailer base plate on it and have our old Blue Ox aluminum tow bar for dragging it. Right now I am just using a 4 wire umbilical cord to power it but next step will be to convert to a 6 wire umbilical so I can trickle charge the battery off the motorhome. I ran the charge wire into the 6 way on the Jeep side when I installed it as I did not want to take all that apart again. We have the flat 4 wire running through the frame rail back to the back end for lights and connected through diodes. I am running our old inertia based Brake Buddy for toed brakes with it as well.
 

longfiredragon

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I flat tow my jeep about every other week or so, as we are currently traveling all over right now.

Per the manual: engine running, put the auto trans in neutral. Shut engine off. Shift the transfer case in neutral. (I leave the ignition in the run position so I can see the neutral light on the dash) start engine put auto trans in reverse, leave for 5 seconds to insure no movement. I usually wiggle transfer case lever a little to make sure it is in neutral and is not going to slip. Shut engine off. Put auto trans in park, push ignition button to off.

Putting it back into 2H. Start engine, shift auto trans into neutral. Shut engine off. Shift transfer case into 2H. Shift auto trans into park.

The more you do this the easier it gets.

My understanding of the four wheel drive system is this. 4H is shift on the fly as long as your below a certain speed (in the manual) I don't think I have ever been over 10 or 15 miles an hour. Keep doing this for a while and it is still a little stiff but you will get used to it and it's not that bad.

4L is not shift on the fly. You need to shift into 4L with the auto trans in neutral below about 5 miles per hour.

Won't speak on the manual trans cause I have an auto, except to say all info. Is in the manual.
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