TrailRecon- Engine Failure

[Jeep Junkie]

It´s weird, I know. I put a 5 quart jug in my Gladiator last weekend and had to drive it around for awhile before it would show correctly on the dipstick.

These things have never-ending draining and are strange on fill-up, too. Quirky engine that way. Maybe that is why some of the dealerships are filling them inadvertently to 6 quarts. Maybe they aren´t mistaking it for the gen 1, like we all think? Lol.

The main thing is that with an oil change, I know exactly how much I put in there, as long as I don´t see a puddle on the driveway. LOL.

I took those pictures for a fellow Jeep owner who is a friend. Waited 30 minutes for the oil(5 quarts) to drain, poured a fresh quart of oil and waited for 15 minutes for that to drain. Put all the drained oil in the Jug and it was exactly 6 quarts. Does that mean I got every drop of oil out of the engine or the engine really holds more than 5 quarts?

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[DanW]

I took those pictures for a fellow Jeep owner who is a friend. Waited 30 minutes for the oil(5 quarts) to drain, poured a fresh quart of oil and waited for 15 minutes for that to drain. Put all the drained oil in the Jug and it was exactly 6 quarts. Does that mean I got every drop of oil out of the engine or the engine really holds more than 5 quarts?

I dunno. THe rated capacity for the PUG is 5.0 quarts. That´s what I fill with. I usually drain for 30-40 minutes but sometimes over an hour. But it always seems to eventually settle correctly on the dipstick with one jug, either way. I´ve been known to add 1/2 quart for long trips....like the big 22 hour each way trip to Moab with lots of crawling in the middle. But I haven´t always done that. Either way, my JL´s 3.6 has never used any oil. So far, my Gladiator´s 3.6 behaves exactly the same. I´ve put 20k on that engine since I bought it with 35k on it.

I did this last weekend. Checked today....spot on with the dipstick. 1 jug only.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

I dunno. THe rated capacity for the PUG is 5.0 quarts. That´s what I fill with. I usually drain for 30-40 minutes but sometimes over an hour. But it always seems to eventually settle correctly on the dipstick with one jug, either way. I´ve been known to add 1/2 quart for long trips....like the big 22 hour each way trip to Moab with lots of crawling in the middle. But I haven´t always done that. Either way, my JL´s 3.6 has never used any oil. So far, my Gladiator´s 3.6 behaves exactly the same. I´ve put 20k on that engine since I bought it with 35k on it.

I did this last weekend. Checked today....spot on with the dipstick. 1 jug only.

That's your favorite oil?

 

[Jeep Junkie]

I dunno. THe rated capacity for the PUG is 5.0 quarts. That´s what I fill with. I usually drain for 30-40 minutes but sometimes over an hour. But it always seems to eventually settle correctly on the dipstick with one jug, either way. I´ve been known to add 1/2 quart for long trips....like the big 22 hour each way trip to Moab with lots of crawling in the middle. But I haven´t always done that. Either way, my JL´s 3.6 has never used any oil. So far, my Gladiator´s 3.6 behaves exactly the same. I´ve put 20k on that engine since I bought it with 35k on it.

I did this last weekend. Checked today....spot on with the dipstick. 1 jug only.

Hey, real quick, using that mobil 1 extended performance which is a long drain oil, for only 3,000 miles bad for the engine?

 

[svtrit]

Hey, real quick, using that mobil 1 extended performance which is a long drain oil, for only 3,000 miles bad for the engine?

No. It’s hard on your wallet though. Less than 5000miles is unnecessary.

The previous 2 owners of my 2014 minivan went by the OLM, which was around 10,000 miles according to CAFAX. I bought it with 74000 miles on it and do around 5000 mile oil changes, some longer if I am driving on the highway, some shorter because winter is coming and I don’t want to do a change in January. I have 131,000 miles on it now on the original cams. I am about to start using the OLM because we are going to trade in a year or so and I don’t see a need to do an extra oil change for the next guy. My current fill is a Valvoline synthetic, though I have mostly used the Havoline semi-synthetic 6 quart box.

My Jeep might get 5000 miles a year, as I have a work truck supplied by my company and only drive the JLU on the weekends. It will always get changed right before winter, when I park it for a long winters nap.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

No. It’s hard on your wallet though. Less than 5000miles is unnecessary.

The previous 2 owners of my 2014 minivan went by the OLM, which was around 10,000 miles according to CAFAX. I bought it with 74000 miles on it and do around 5000 mile oil changes, some longer if I am driving on the highway, some shorter because winter is coming and I don’t want to do a change in January. I have 131,000 miles on it now on the original cams. I am about to start using the OLM because we are going to trade in a year or so and I don’t see a need to do an extra oil change for the next guy. My current fill is a Valvoline synthetic, though I have mostly used the Havoline semi-synthetic 6 quart box.

My Jeep might get 5000 miles a year, as I have a work truck supplied by my company and only drive the JLU on the weekends. It will always get changed right before winter, when I park it for a long winters nap.

Walmart is giving a case of 3 jugs for $80

 

[DanW]

That's your favorite oil?

Yep. The nectar of the engine gods!

 

[DanW]

Hey, real quick, using that mobil 1 extended performance which is a long drain oil, for only 3,000 miles bad for the engine?

Nope. If anything it is overkill. I run it 5k. It gives me peace of mind that I could go much longer.

What I like about it is that the base oil contains up to 20-30% esters/PAO. It used to be even higher than that. It gives excellent performance at extreme temps, both cold and hot. Plus, it keeps the engine nice and clean and free of any sludge or deposits.

I personally believe it and maybe Mobil 1 ESP X2 are the top two oils from Mobil 1 in 0w20. I think Truck & SUV is pretty good, too, but it appears to not have any esters/PAO and is just a group III base, which is still fine.

 

[DanW]

No. It’s hard on your wallet though. Less than 5000miles is unnecessary.

The previous 2 owners of my 2014 minivan went by the OLM, which was around 10,000 miles according to CAFAX. I bought it with 74000 miles on it and do around 5000 mile oil changes, some longer if I am driving on the highway, some shorter because winter is coming and I don’t want to do a change in January. I have 131,000 miles on it now on the original cams. I am about to start using the OLM because we are going to trade in a year or so and I don’t see a need to do an extra oil change for the next guy. My current fill is a Valvoline synthetic, though I have mostly used the Havoline semi-synthetic 6 quart box.

My Jeep might get 5000 miles a year, as I have a work truck supplied by my company and only drive the JLU on the weekends. It will always get changed right before winter, when I park it for a long winters nap.

Not really. It´s been about $29 for a jug and now has the rebate. But I don´t drink or smoke, so two oil changes a year per Jeep with this stuff is nothin. I know guys that will blow many times more than that on a bunch of booze throughout the year. And I do it myself. The waste of money is someone spending $100 to have oil changed at a quickie place or dealership with bulk oil and a crappy filter.

 

[Jeep Junkie]

Nope. If anything it is overkill. I run it 5k. It gives me peace of mind that I could go much longer.

What I like about it is that the base oil contains up to 20-30% esters/PAO. It used to be even higher than that. It gives excellent performance at extreme temps, both cold and hot. Plus, it keeps the engine nice and clean and free of any sludge or deposits.

I personally believe it and maybe Mobil 1 ESP X2 are the top two oils from Mobil 1 in 0w20. I think Truck & SUV is pretty good, too, but it appears to not have any esters/PAO and is just a group III base, which is still fine.

What I like about the EP is that it is a very thick 0W20, 8.8 at 100 degrees The other Mobil 0W20s are only 8.2

 

[Ratbert]

What I like about the EP is that it is a very thick 0W20, 8.8 at 100 degrees The other Mobil 0W20s are only 8.2

You're thinking that a "very thick" oil is better?

 

[Jeep Junkie]

You're thinking that a "very thick" oil is better?

I think so. It will stay closer to virgin viscosity longer. No?

 

[DanW]

You're thinking that a "very thick" oil is better?

Truth is, most of this is about feeling. Nobody has the millions of dollars of equipment to test engines like Jeep/FCA when they developed this engine. There is a range for 20 weight oil and if it makes someone feel better to be on the thicker end of it, what´s wrong with that? If I were to run a 5w30 or 0w30, I would shoot for one on the thinner end of that spectrum.

At the end of the day, the most important thing is to put a good quality oil and good quality filter in it at the proper interval that is at least when the oil life monitor gets to zero.

I do 5k because it makes me feel good and because it gives me lots of safety margin in case I get busy and can´t get around to it. My job and life is busy. I rarely miss it, but if I do, I know I can go much further between the OLM and using Mobil 1 EP.

I´ve done many used oil analyses and the longest was around 8k miles (OLM was at about 1%). I did some at 7,000. The oil in those cases was in excellent shape, was in the proper viscosity range, and had no oxidation, which is the major sign of breakdown. It seems the wear metals tend to top out at 5k and not rise much, if at all, going to 7k or 8k. So really, the data says I am wasting money with earlier changes. But I don´t care. It gives me peace of mind and I enjoy taking care of the Jeep.

Anyone want to guess what oil showed the lowest wear numbers? I ran it twice, once to 5k and once to 7k. Both times, it clearly had the lowest wear.

You all might be surprised.

And another oil was the worst.... not horribly, but definitely an uptick in wear metals and it thickened to the low end of 30 weight, at 10.64 cSt @ 100 degrees C. I´ll take guesses for that, too. Other data looked fine on it. It was in there for 5k.

Both the best and worst were major brand full synthetics. All other data....additive levels like moly and phosphorus....and insolubles....all the other data was almost identical. Just the iron and viscosity were far apart.

Ask and I will tell! Lol. I think I did 10 or 12 UOA´s and these were the outliers.

 

[DanW]

And, btw, a 30 weight can go down to 9.3 cSt. The Mobil 1 EP 0w20 virgin sample rates at 8.8. You´d never know the difference pouring it or sloshing it around. That difference is so tiny that somewhere in the thread, there´s some passion in the debate between the two, which is really quite humorous, if you think about it. And I am as guilty as anyone, so not pointing fingers here. Just an observation of behavior that includes me.

 

[svtrit]

Truth is, most of this is about feeling. Nobody has the millions of dollars of equipment to test engines like Jeep/FCA when they developed this engine. There is a range for 20 weight oil and if it makes someone feel better to be on the thicker end of it, what´s wrong with that? If I were to run a 5w30 or 0w30, I would shoot for one on the thinner end of that spectrum.

At the end of the day, the most important thing is to put a good quality oil and good quality filter in it at the proper interval that is at least when the oil life monitor gets to zero.

I do 5k because it makes me feel good and because it gives me lots of safety margin in case I get busy and can´t get around to it. My job and life is busy. I rarely miss it, but if I do, I know I can go much further between the OLM and using Mobil 1 EP.

I´ve done many used oil analyses and the longest was around 8k miles (OLM was at about 1%). I did some at 7,000. The oil in those cases was in excellent shape, was in the proper viscosity range, and had no oxidation, which is the major sign of breakdown. It seems the wear metals tend to top out at 5k and not rise much, if at all, going to 7k or 8k. So really, the data says I am wasting money with earlier changes. But I don´t care. It gives me peace of mind and I enjoy taking care of the Jeep.

Anyone want to guess what oil showed the lowest wear numbers? I ran it twice, once to 5k and once to 7k. Both times, it clearly had the lowest wear.

You all might be surprised.

And another oil was the worst.... not horribly, but definitely an uptick in wear metals and it thickened to the low end of 30 weight, at 10.64 cSt @ 100 degrees C. I´ll take guesses for that, too. Other data looked fine on it. It was in there for 5k.

Both the best and worst were major brand full synthetics. All other data....additive levels like moly and phosphorus....and insolubles....all the other data was almost identical. Just the iron and viscosity were far apart.

Ask and I will tell! Lol. I think I did 10 or 12 UOA´s and these were the outliers.

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