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TPMS Woes

BernJLUR

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I got mine from Discount Tire and three of the four are on the fritz and work intermittently. I didn’t realize they have some sort of guarantee. But I read that TPMS sensors are notoriously hit or miss with aftermarket wheels, and so I used my Tazer and just turned them off. If given the chance again, I won’t be adding them.
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WranglerMan

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I bought these:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VGY7XLB

...and they've been good for a month now.
If you want authentic real OE or aftermarket sensors at a great price go here. Put in "5%off" for a discount.
https://www.tpmsbargains.com/Jeep-Wrangler-JL-TPMS-Sensors-s/1961.htm
Thats the thing....I’m honestly not sure I want to spend more on sensors, I have been thru several sets and they all work for awhile then start to go out, not sure if it’s due to my wheels and lift but there is a issue.

All the sensors were supposed to be OEM compatible but still gave issues, currently they are all working but the spare is completely out and the driver side front and rear go out but after 30 mins or so of driving they come back.

I’m not opposed to running without them but I don’t want an annoying error message on the EVIC telling me there’s a problem so I’m guessing I could just try the ones from Discount Tire as the tech said they have a 6 year warranty and if they gave me trouble they would pull the sensors and give me my cash back or get a Tazer, Flashcal or Jscan and turn the system off.

My one last resort is to only do a 4 tire rotation since the ones rolling seem to work 99% of the time and don’t rotate the spare into the mix
 

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Goin2drt

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Thats the thing....I’m honestly not sure I want to spend more on sensors, I have been thru several sets and they all work for awhile then start to go out, not sure if it’s due to my wheels and lift but there is a issue.

All the sensors were supposed to be OEM compatible but still gave issues, currently they are all working but the spare is completely out and the driver side front and rear go out but after 30 mins or so of driving they come back.

I’m not opposed to running without them but I don’t want an annoying error message on the EVIC telling me there’s a problem so I’m guessing I could just try the ones from Discount Tire as the tech said they have a 6 year warranty and if they gave me trouble they would pull the sensors and give me my cash back or get a Tazer, Flashcal or Jscan and turn the system off.

My one last resort is to only do a 4 tire rotation since the ones rolling seem to work 99% of the time and don’t rotate the spare into the mix
First and foremost your spare will not show or read until it is put in rotation so that one is probably fine.

Not sure what year your Jeep is but the 18's and many 19's are having the issue once it is lifted and bigger tires. The problem is on the Jeep side with their transmitter not being strong enough to pick up the TPMS signal at every tire rotation. When this occurs your EVIC will show the correct PSI but the light will remain on because it isn't getting the signal every rotation so it thinks their is something wrong. We are seeing that the 20-21's are much better.

Now let's talk sensors. There is what we call DIRECT FIT TPMS - these are the OE sensor that can only work on certain vehicles makes and models. For example for the JEEP Wranglers they are either Schrader 20398, 29117 (discontinued by Schrader) and 29093 which replaced the 29117. These are direct fit OE sensors.

Next there is PROGRAMMABLE TPMS - these are sensors made by dozens of different companies that when you use a TPMS tool you can program them for your specific vehicle or "load the protocol" into the TPMS so that they will work in your vehicle. Schrader does make these (33500 or 33700). These and HUF (BHSens) are the best from a PROGRAMMABLE stand point as they are at least the best quality. These are the sensors you are getting from Discount Tire. DT rarely sells OE specific TPMS and usually only does if a PROGRAMMABLE TPMS won't work.

In my 2018 we have tried almost every sensor out there. The cheap chinese stuff is junk (the Amazon example above). It may or may not work. They may or may not last. The OE manufacturer PROGRAMMABLE sensors are good however we have found the strongest signal and best luck have been with the OE DIRECT FIT sensors. Still no guarantee as every lift/tire situation is different. For example on my 18 I get the correct PSI but the light is on and that is with 20398's. Others wouldn't even do that.

Hope all that helps.
 
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WranglerMan

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First and foremost your spare will not show or read until it is put in rotation so that one is probably fine.

Not sure what year your Jeep is but the 18's and many 19's are having the issue once it is lifted and bigger tires. The problem is on the Jeep side with their transmitter not being strong enough to pick up the TPMS signal at every tire rotation. When this occurs your EVIC will show the correct PSI but the light will remain on because it isn't getting the signal every rotation so it thinks their is something wrong. We are seeing that the 20-21's are much better.

Now let's talk sensors. There is what we call DIRECT FIT TPMS - these are the OE sensor that can only work on certain vehicles makes and models. For example for the JEEP Wranglers they are either Schrader 20398, 29117 (discontinued by Schrader) and 29093 which replaced the 29117. These are direct fit OE sensors.

Next there is PROGRAMMABLE TPMS - these are sensors made by dozens of different companies that when you use a TPMS tool you can program them for your specific vehicle or "load the protocol" into the TPMS so that they will work in your vehicle. Schrader does make these (33500 or 33700). These and HUF (BHSens) are the best from a PROGRAMMABLE stand point as they are at least the best quality. These are the sensors you are getting from Discount Tire. DT rarely sells OE specific TPMS and usually only does if a PROGRAMMABLE TPMS won't work.

In my 2018 we have tried almost every sensor out there. The cheap chinese stuff is junk (the Amazon example above). It may or may not work. They may or may not last. The OE manufacturer PROGRAMMABLE sensors are good however we have found the strongest signal and best luck have been with the OE DIRECT FIT sensors. Still no guarantee as every lift/tire situation is different. For example on my 18 I get the correct PSI but the light is on and that is with 20398's. Others wouldn't even do that.

Hope all that helps.
I went to the Discount Tire shop that I have been going to for several years and they scanned all my tires and the spare is dead and the driver side ones he had to scan a few times but they did come in and the tech there said that they possibly may be going out but not sure and he suggested to replace all (5) of them at ($60) each :CWL: and said they would work and have a guarantee but who knows because if you have tested as many as you have and still have issues I’m not sure I want to cough of that much $$$ to be running back and fourth to DT if if have issues.

My next thought was to buy another Tazer but get the lite version as I don’t need most of what the Tazer offers and just turn the TPMS system off but that to seems like a lot just to turn off one thing but if I turned it off I could do my five tire rotation and not worry what would or would not be picked up by the Jeep.

My JL is a 2018 and I have had issues since day one of doing my lift and tires with my new wheels
 

Goin2drt

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I went to the Discount Tire shop that I have been going to for several years and they scanned all my tires and the spare is dead and the driver side ones he had to scan a few times but they did come in and the tech there said that they possibly may be going out but not sure and he suggested to replace all (5) of them at ($60) each :CWL: and said they would work and have a guarantee but who knows because if you have tested as many as you have and still have issues I’m not sure I want to cough of that much $$$ to be running back and fourth to DT if if have issues.

My next thought was to buy another Tazer but get the lite version as I don’t need most of what the Tazer offers and just turn the TPMS system off but that to seems like a lot just to turn off one thing but if I turned it off I could do my five tire rotation and not worry what would or would not be picked up by the Jeep.

My JL is a 2018 and I have had issues since day one of doing my lift and tires with my new wheels
TPMSBargains.com has OE factory sensors for $30 each plus 5% off so paying $60 would be silly unless that is including the mounting and removal of old sensors.

Second NO WAY your sensors from the factory are DEAD. No way, no how. Factory good quality sensors will last 7-10 years. Unless you put in different sensors when you got your wheels and tires and they are not factory then maybe.

Tazer is definitely the best way to go to just be done with the issue and to stop fussing with it.
 

mgroeger

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Maybe @joe@zauto can chime in ( lol) and let us know what the purpose of the chime is when turning TPMS off, I found the chime very annoying I turned TPMS back on as that set of sensors worked but then they started going crazy so moved to another set and then another and by this time my Tazer was gone so I’m thinking I either need to drop the coin and get the ones from Discount Tire as they say the ones they use will work and are guaranteed for 6 years or go with Tazer, Flashcal, Jscan or similar and turn it off
Don't know what Discount Auto charges but I can tell you that Rock Auto carries the exact same ones the factory installs at a great price.

Jeep Wrangler JL TPMS Woes 1606923708119
 

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WranglerMan

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TPMSBargains.com has OE factory sensors for $30 each plus 5% off so paying $60 would be silly unless that is including the mounting and removal of old sensors.

Second NO WAY your sensors from the factory are DEAD. No way, no how. Factory good quality sensors will last 7-10 years. Unless you put in different sensors when you got your wheels and tires and they are not factory then maybe.

Tazer is definitely the best way to go to just be done with the issue and to stop fussing with it.
The ones that are in my wheels now are not factory they are aftermarket ones as the factory ones went with my original wheels and tires when I sold them and I have used several OEM styled ones since and they just don’t seem to work very well.

As far as the DT tire ones that does include putting them in and taking the old out, said they don’t have to rebalance as putting in new ones just require breaking the top bead, said it would only take an hour at most
 

mgroeger

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The ones that are in my wheels now are not factory they are aftermarket ones as the factory ones went with my original wheels and tires when I sold them and I have used several OEM styled ones since and they just don’t seem to work very well.

As far as the DT tire ones that does include putting them in and taking the old out, said they don’t have to rebalance as putting in new ones just require breaking the top bead, said it would only take an hour at most
I can tell you the ones I posted from Rock Auto are factory ones, do the research and you will see the Shcrader 20398 are the ones installed at factory. I happened to order them from a different place but since then have found Rock Auto to have the best price.
 
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WranglerMan

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I’m thinking a programmer is in my near future, went back to DT and talked with another tech and they contacted Method wheels and Method advised it’s likely due to the way the sensor sits in the wheel and with the higher negative offset and 2.5” lift does not help, they said new sensors may not help but advised that a different style valve stem that pushes the sensors more toward the center of the wheel may solve the issue but there is no guarantee.

The tech told me on the side I would be better off turning the system off with a programmer which really surprised me, currently all 4 rolling wheels read while driving but spare and drivers rear he could not get to read even though it’s registering in the Jeep, he asked me what sensors I had in there and I don’t even remember since I have gone thru so many sets.

I flat out asked him what he would do and he advised since the four rolling tires are working to do nothing but rotate and leave the spare sit and if I wanted to spend $$$ on something to spend it on a programmer and turn it off and then do a five tire rotation but could just stick with the four tire rotation and save the wear and tear on the spare and when the tires are gone I would only have to buy four and not five.

For now I will do just the four tire rotation and if I have trouble with the once’s rolling I will get a Tazer Lite or JScan, I could kick myself for selling my Tazer a year ago but all’s good, at least I don’t have to worry about ESS as I have it turned off with my Smart Stop/Start module
 

mgroeger

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I’m thinking a programmer is in my near future, went back to DT and talked with another tech and they contacted Method wheels and Method advised it’s likely due to the way the sensor sits in the wheel and with the higher negative offset and 2.5” lift does not help, they said new sensors may not help but advised that a different style valve stem that pushes the sensors more toward the center of the wheel may solve the issue but there is no guarantee.

The tech told me on the side I would be better off turning the system off with a programmer which really surprised me, currently all 4 rolling wheels read while driving but spare and drivers rear he could not get to read even though it’s registering in the Jeep, he asked me what sensors I had in there and I don’t even remember since I have gone thru so many sets.

I flat out asked him what he would do and he advised since the four rolling tires are working to do nothing but rotate and leave the spare sit and if I wanted to spend $$$ on something to spend it on a programmer and turn it off and then do a five tire rotation but could just stick with the four tire rotation and save the wear and tear on the spare and when the tires are gone I would only have to buy four and not five.

For now I will do just the four tire rotation and if I have trouble with the once’s rolling I will get a Tazer Lite or JScan, I could kick myself for selling my Tazer a year ago but all’s good, at least I don’t have to worry about ESS as I have it turned off with my Smart Stop/Start module
I think you are complicating this. First thing you need to do is decide do you want to have TPMS working.
If NO:
Buy a Tazer and turn it off - $220 (plus you get other features like ESS turn off)
If YES:
Buy the tpms sensors I put above from Rock Auto and be on your way - $125 plus shipping.

My wife is running KMC 233 beadlocks with 37" Cooper STT pros and has zero problems with the Schrader sensors. Those wheels have a 3.5 backspace AND a NEGATIVE 38mm offset... i.e. they really stick out and they read the sensors.
Your lift has nothing to do with your sensors not reading, that's a pretty ignorant statement made by a tech. You could have a 10" lift and stock wheels and you'd be fine. A wheel offset can impact TPMS reading but not a lift.

Going to a 4 tire rotation just because a sensor isn't working seems a bit foolish to me but hey it's your Jeep. In my Jeep I said screw it and turned the sensors off because they were aftermarket junk that were in the wheels when I bought it. How did I make it 48 years without tpms sensors, I'll never know... lol.
 

Yellow Cake Kid

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TPMS is one of the few new fangled features I enjoy.

Honest question; why would wheel offset impact the effective radio transmission? Is the antenna on the sensor's transmitter directional and narrow beam? That seems unlikely, but I guess it could be the case.

When you consider that the sensor is sitting inside a belted tire that is almost, but not quite, a Faraday cage, It is amazing that the transmitters work at all.
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