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Torque Specs + Transfer Case DIY help please!

dopestoinfinity

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Hey folks, definitely tried the search function and the specs I came across can't be right (48 ft-lbs) for these on my JLUD? My digital torque wrench is showing about 20 ft-lbs on these currently and they are SNUG.

Also wondering, I'm going down this rabbit hole before changing the TC fluid, can I get away with leaving this skid plate on if I have my funnel / pan game in order? The drain & fill plugs both have a green line marker, should I try and re-align or try and get the torque wrench in there?

Thanks in advance!

Jeep Wrangler JL Torque Specs + Transfer Case DIY help please! Torque Specs
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BDinTX

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Apologies in advance - I probably won't be of much help beyond bumping the thread.

When I did my TC drain/refill I had already swapped to a belly pan so can't help with the torque specs.

I recall my TC also had the paint pen marks on the plugs but for some reason I wasn't able to get a torque wrench in there so all I could do was line them up. It should be fairly easy to get the skid out of the way, and I doubt the few minutes you save leaving it on would be worth it.
 

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you can drain and refill without removing the skid. use some kitchen AL foil to create a catch basin of sorts or use something like create-a-funnel.

About the T-Case skid bolts, mine looks a little diff than yours, at least in the service manual and those bolts that goes on the cross member have a spec of 15 ft-lbs. the other side that goes to frame is spec-ed to 55 ft-lbs


Drain/Fill plug should be torqued to -

Drain/Fill Plug28 N·m (21 Ft. Lbs.)

I recently removed the fill plug to top off the T-Case, I reached 21 ft-lb before the green mark would align, so I left it there.

this is based off the torque specs on 392 that I am looking at.
 

LARSONEM

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I did the same aluminum foil trick on top of the skid plate too. Just wrap it around a small block of wood on the front side of the skid plate so it creates a slope to the drain pan on the back side. So much easier than dropping the skid plate.
 

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dopestoinfinity

dopestoinfinity

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I did the same aluminum foil trick on top of the skid plate too. Just wrap it around a small block of wood on the front side of the skid plate so it creates a slope to the drain pan on the back side. So much easier than dropping the skid plate.
Thanks, I got one of those flexible funnels I'm hoping that'll do the trick!

Did you use a torque wrench for the drain/fill bolts and if so did you use an extension or were you able to fit it in there?
 

LARSONEM

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Thanks, I got one of those flexible funnels I'm hoping that'll do the trick!

Did you use a torque wrench for the drain/fill bolts and if so did you use an extension or were you able to fit it in there?
I did not use a torque wrench. Just snugged it up real good.
 

WannFly

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OP, get some thread sealant on the plugs and make a new mark with another color pen if you are not matching the factory mark, that way you can visually tell if its coming off.

If you have a small torque wrench, its easy to torque it as well, you will likely need a small extension
 
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dopestoinfinity

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OP, get some thread sealant on the plugs and make a new mark with another color pen if you are not matching the factory mark, that way you can visually tell if its coming off.

If you have a small torque wrench, its easy to torque it as well, you will likely need a small extension
Thanks! That was the plan, I really don't want to FW the skid plate so I'm hoping I can make it work with my larger digital torque wrench and an extension
 

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Thanks! That was the plan, I really don't want to FW the skid plate so I'm hoping I can make it work with my larger digital torque wrench and an extension
I have used a large torque wrench as well, its very minimal torque, should not be a problem.

If you want to buy something new, get this ;)

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