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Top Off w/ 5W-30?

brynamic

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On a road trip, in a very small town, did an oil check and appear about a quart low. The local hardware shop has Mobil1 5W-30 but no 0W-20. I have about 4k miles on the Castrol 0W-20 in the engine now, will put about 1,200 miles on the 5W-30/0W-20 mix to get home.

My thought was better to have 5 quarts of two different oils than 4 quarts - but then I started over thinking mixing the different viscosity oils together and don't want to end up with sludge. I already bought the oil since the shop was closing, but hesitated pouring it in. Any issues with this setup for 1200 miles or so?
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Tr4ckD4ys

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I did not expect to read these answers. I always read and heard that mixing oils of different viscosity and weight is a big no-no-no-no.

it’s not like he’s trying an oil change for 5 quarts of 5w-30. He’s asking to mix 0w-20 with 5w-30 which are completely different specs.

personally, I would not risk it and instead, drive a little further on 4 quarts until the next place that as 0w-20. I’m sure there’s one before the 1200 miles run out. Or do a full oil change and put 5 quarts of 5w-30

EDIT: My above “line of thinking” is not correct. This thread will teach you that it’s better to top of with any engine oil than to drive a quart low.
 
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travis304

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Fill it up with vegetable oil and enjoy the sweet smells of french fries.
 

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azwjowner

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I did not expect to read these answers. I always read and heard that mixing oils of different viscosity and weight is a big no-no-no-no.

it’s not like he’s trying an oil change for 5 quarts of 5w-30. He’s asking to mix 0w-20 with 5w-30 which are completely different specs.

personally, I would not risk it and instead, drive a little further on 4 quarts until the next place that as 0w-20. I’m sure there’s one before the 1200 miles run out. Or do a full oil change and put 5 quarts of 5w-30
Part of the API spec requires mixing compatibility. What do you think happens when you do a normal oil change and switch brands or weight? There’s a good quart of the old oil left in the engine after draining.
 

azjl#3

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Amsoil?

Seriously, yes add. I'd use 10 w 40 if that's all they had.
 

jadmt

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I did not expect to read these answers. I always read and heard that mixing oils of different viscosity and weight is a big no-no-no-no.

it’s not like he’s trying an oil change for 5 quarts of 5w-30. He’s asking to mix 0w-20 with 5w-30 which are completely different specs.

personally, I would not risk it and instead, drive a little further on 4 quarts until the next place that as 0w-20. I’m sure there’s one before the 1200 miles run out. Or do a full oil change and put 5 quarts of 5w-30
sorry but that is wrong..as was stated all API oils are mixable....does not matter weight or brand.
 

TPadden

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I did not expect to read these answers. I always read and heard that mixing oils of different viscosity and weight is a big no-no-no-no.
Not as big of a no-no-no-no-no-no as running low oil. Add a quart of 5W-30 and forget about it. ;)
 

Tr4ckD4ys

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Part of the API spec requires mixing compatibility. What do you think happens when you do a normal oil change and switch brands or weight? There’s a good quart of the old oil left in the engine after draining.
I never do that lol. Never switched grades. But I believe you.
 

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Old Dogger

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Non-issue..:like:
But I would question as to why it was down a quart of oil. These engines as of today, normally don't show any usage. Do you have a engine oil leak?
 
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brynamic

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Thank you everyone! I went ahead and added the quart and the level on the stick is where it needs to be now.
 
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brynamic

brynamic

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Non-issue..:like:
But I would question as to why it was down a quart of oil. These engines as of today, normally don't show any usage. Do you have a engine oil leak?
When I noticed it was low I checked around the engine. Hard to see anything up top but I do see some oil down below where the two rubber grommets at the front of the transmission - hoping not a rear main seal. I'm 4k miles into a new rebuild of the upper portion of the engine due to coolant in cylinder 1. My goal here is to get it home and back to my preferred shop of analysis as I've never had an issue with low oil previously.
 

AFD

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Non-issue..:like:
But I would question as to why it was down a quart of oil. These engines as of today, normally don't show any usage. Do you have a engine oil leak?
Checking on a slight incline or checking cold can cause it to read low. Checking it warm and then waiting 5 minutes, per the manual should be more accurate.

Was wondering this myself, though. Checked my level at cold today and it was dead nuts. Got it warm and waited 5 minutes and it was still the same. Drained out what I measured to be 4.25 quarts and filled up with a full 5 quart jug, did a cold check then a hot check, was still exactly at the top of the hash marks on the goofy little pill thing and not a bit over.

Parked in the exact same spot, and the in-dash tilt sensor was reading +1°/+1° both times (same spot and reading I checked the factory fill). Was the same thing last time I changed my oil. ~3/4 quart low versus what I added. Only thing I can think of is that's the amount I splashed on my hand taking the plug out and the small amount coating the inside of my funnel and drain pan. Doesn't seem like it would be that much, but I honestly can't figure it out.
 

Heimkehr

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On a road trip, in a very small town, did an oil check and appear about a quart low.

I have about 4k miles on the Castrol 0W-20 in the engine now
I'm 4k miles into a new rebuild of the upper portion of the engine due to coolant in cylinder 1.
As typed, the quoted posts suggest that the 0W-20 in the engine now was added by the person/shop who performed the rebuild work. Is it possible that they underfilled the engine, and/or you didn't check the level before just now doing so during your current road trip?

I honestly don't intend to sound accusatory here. Just trying to fill in a few blank spaces. 👍
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