Teraflex ball joint question

[DEdney1775]

So I'm replacing mine today. The old ones came out and definitely needed replacing.
I put in the bottom bj & then the top. After I got the top in, I noticed the grease zerk orientation was backwards and it doesn't look like the joint is seated properly..
Can I remove the brand new top joint to reposition the bottom joint?

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[Moto_21]

is the bottom one flush with the bottom of the knuckle all the way around? thats whats important.

 

[Tech Tim]

So I'm replacing mine today. The old ones came out and definitely needed replacing.
I put in the bottom bj & then the top. After I got the top in, I noticed the grease zerk orientation was backwards and it doesn't look like the joint is seated properly..
Can I remove the brand new top joint to reposition the bottom joint?

Yes, you can pull them and reposition them.

 

[Mx5red]

Do you mean you removed the housing? I thought the point of those was that you didn't have to do that, only replace the internals.

 

[XX4XEXX]

This is typical and they do seat like this but you can set them without the pitch. A few YTs on this.

 

[Remorseless]

Do you mean you removed the housing? I thought the point of those was that you didn't have to do that, only replace the internals.

That's the Dynatrac ball joints. Not aware of the Teraflex joints being rebuildable while in the end forging.

 

[Tech Tim]

......and it doesn't look like the joint is seated properly..

When you say it doesn't look like its seated properly, do you mean that groove on top looks to be at an angle?

is the bottom one flush with the bottom of the knuckle all the way around? thats whats important.

This right here^^^^

It's that bottom flange that needs to sit flush against the bottom of the C.

 

[DEdney1775]

I meant to get back on here a few days ago & offer thanks to all those that commented & helped. Yes, the bottoms are flush against the knuckles.

Not gonna lie, pulling those old ones out kicked my butt!! Definitely turned out to be an all day job in my garage. But, I saved hundreds doing it myself and learned more about my rig.

When I was putting it all back together, I installed 1" wheel spacers as well. I had to trim the original lug studs down about 1/2". I torqued the nuts down to 110fp and used blue thread locker.

Now, while driving, I'm noticing a little wobble around 30mph... I didn't have any wobble before the ball joint install. Everything was torqued to spec while putting it back together. I may get rid of the spacers & see if it smooths out the ride.

 

[Headbarcode]

I meant to get back on here a few days ago & offer thanks to all those that commented & helped. Yes, the bottoms are flush against the knuckles.

Not gonna lie, pulling those old ones out kicked my butt!! Definitely turned out to be an all day job in my garage. But, I saved hundreds doing it myself and learned more about my rig.

When I was putting it all back together, I installed 1" wheel spacers as well. I had to trim the original lug studs down about 1/2". I torqued the nuts down to 110fp and used blue thread locker.

Now, while driving, I'm noticing a little wobble around 30mph... I didn't have any wobble before the ball joint install. Everything was torqued to spec while putting it back together. I may get rid of the spacers & see if it smooths out the ride.

Are those spacers hubcentric, like those from Borah and Synergy? That's an important part when it comes to wheel spacers. Also, torque specs call for 130lb/ft on the lug studs.

 

[DEdney1775]

yes, they're hubcentric. I'll re-torque them tonight when I get home. Thought I read 110 somewhere.. Thanks!

 

[XtremeRetard]

Some wheels only state 100ftlb.. like my beadlocks.. So I have no doubt it varies.

 

[Headbarcode]

yes, they're hubcentric. I'll re-torque them tonight when I get home. Thought I read 110 somewhere.. Thanks!

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