Sway Bar end link lengths

[Jtphoto]

Well, I’m not surprised you didn’t get a straight answer because really there is no one answer. Every Jeep with mods is gonna sit a bit different so no one but you really know what the real height is.
Matching the angle of the stock swaybar and taking measurements after the lift is added is the best way overall.
Now the big issue with the e disco is when you add long travel shocks like 30” MC RockSports you may not be able to run links long enough and end up with a flip over.
In this case one wheel stuffed one fully drooped quick disconnects would have been safer.

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[Mx5red]

So if the angle is on the higher side what is the risk? Without going outside to look, I’m guessing sway bar could hit maybe wheel liner?

 

[Jtphoto]

So if the angle is on the higher side what is the risk? Without going outside to look, I’m guessing sway bar could hit maybe wheel liner?

That’s the thing with long travel shocks (13” travel). If you start with too much angle up on the swaybar, if you go full stuff you take out the inner fender well to possibly damaging the inner steel fender.

 

[sbrimer]

Clayton Off Road makes a set of sway bar links that are cut to length. They start off at 13" and can be adjusted from 8" to 16".

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/product/jeep-wrangler-adjustable-front-sway-bar-end-links-2018-jl-jt

 

[Camaroboi13]

Yeah, don’t go measuring things off the shock length or amount of full droop. A shock that is too long will invert the sway bar and then you’re in for a not so fun day after that. 10 times out of 10, you’re getting max droop and articulation WHEN DISCONNECTED, so it doesn’t make sense to measure your end links that way.

 

[RanchoShocks]

So we offer these (for info)
A 3.5"ISH JL system
RS62141 (front) 8.75" center to center
RS62142 (rear) 12.5" center to center

A 2" JL system
RS62139 (front) 7.4" center to center
RS62140 (rear) 10.8" center to center

 

[Odyssey USA]

You will want to consider the shock length up front, some lifts come with shocks that are very long, some not so much.

I recently added a 1-inch spacer to the front of my Rubicon XR and Falcon 2.1 2-3.5 inch shocks that are 27.5 inches long extended. Basically 3 inches longer than the factory XR shocks or 5 inches longer than standard Rubicon shocks. At ride height and street driving all is good, at full extension it is not so good! I realize the photo doesn't show the links but gives an idea of droop. I wasn't willing to push it any further to see if there was more flex left to be had.

I called @TeraFlex and asked if they had a recommended link length and the guy I spoke with might as have been my neighbours dog, had no useful info at all!

I am considering just adding the Mopar lifts links that are an inch longer than the XR links.

Another link that interests me is the ICON link, but I am not able to find any length information.

Would you know a part number and lengths for those?

 

[longfiredragon]

Would you know a part number and lengths for those?

Clayton also has list lengths for all their components at different lift heights. Of course they have to say it's like a starting point, but I believe it's closer than that. I set my lift up in accordance to their chart and everything works perfect and the jeep drives great.

Anyway, I picked a lift at random just as an example.

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/sites/default/files/product_instructions/3009035 Instructions_0.PDF

 

[Odyssey USA]

Clayton also has list lengths for all their components at different lift heights. Of course they have to say it's like a starting point, but I believe it's closer than that. I set my lift up in accordance to their chart and everything works perfect and the jeep drives great.

Anyway, I picked a lift at random just as an example.

https://www.claytonoffroad.com/sites/default/files/product_instructions/3009035 Instructions_0.PDF

I found those a few minutes ago. Then I got to wondering if that length to the right of stock is just the rod or with the ends on, eye to eye.

I have the factory electric disconnect so I’m trying to be careful. They show factory is 5.063. I might use my 3/4” spacers all around, that’s it. Even the Rancho seems a little too much at basically 2.4” longer end link and it’s meant for a 2” lift. I’m not sure what I want to try yet.

 

[fourfa]

Just FYI, don’t get the Claytons. The only way to keep the shank from spinning is with a rather small Allen hex in the end of the shank. It’s very hard to get proper torque on them in the first place, which means they will loosen up in the field, then get reamed out every time you need to tighten them up. Mine got to where I couldn’t tighten them up at all so I had to dump them

Look for ones with an external hex head, so you can get a proper torque wrench on them. Or at least a pair of flats on the shank so you can hold it with a wrench. No allen sockets. I got the Rock Krawler no limits set but there are plenty of options.

 

[longfiredragon]

I found those a few minutes ago. Then I got to wondering if that length to the right of stock is just the rod or with the ends on, eye to eye.

I have the factory electric disconnect so I’m trying to be careful. They show factory is 5.063. I might use my 3/4” spacers all around, that’s it. Even the Rancho seems a little too much at basically 2.4” longer end link and it’s meant for a 2” lift. I’m not sure what I want to try yet.

Confused a little. Clayton instructions seem to be perfectly clear. It's center to center of the eyelet.

Cutting the rod gives you the correct center to center length.

 

[longfiredragon]

Just FYI, don’t get the Claytons. The only way to keep the shank from spinning is with a rather small Allen hex in the end of the shank. It’s very hard to get proper torque on them in the first place, which means they will loosen up in the field, then get reamed out every time you need to tighten them up. Mine got to where I couldn’t tighten them up at all so I had to dump them

Look for ones with an external hex head, so you can get a proper torque wrench on them. Or at least a pair of flats on the shank so you can hold it with a wrench. No allen sockets. I got the Rock Krawler no limits set but there are plenty of options.

Not sure on this either. Maybe I am missing something. Please let me know.

There is no Allen hex bolts/screws used on Clayton sway bar rod links. Mine have jam nuts to secure the length.

I also wheeled 19 BOH trails and a boat load of other trails and roads and my Clayton sway bar rod links are still tight and have never once come loose.

Edit: I had to go look at them.

Your talking about the end of the link where it attaches and there is an internal hex/Allen slot.

My next question would be why would they come loose?

I will have to do more research. Thanks.

 

[Odyssey USA]

Confused a little. Clayton instructions seem to be perfectly clear. It's center to center of the eyelet.

Cutting the rod gives you the correct center to center length.

Only in the max and min length on the following page is eye to eye even represented. I’d rather not assume when they are discussing lengths removed from the 13” rod.

 

[longfiredragon]

Only in the max and min length on the following page is eye to eye even represented. I’d rather not assume when they are discussing lengths removed from the 13” rod.

Must be missing something. Maybe I'm looking at something different. They give exact cut lengths for each lift height. (Yes it's on the next page, not sure what that has to do with anything)Then you measure from center to center before tightening your jam nuts.

You can get really close (which is actually all that is needed) if not exact on the measurements before you tighten up everything. I used digital calipers and my measurements were exact.

I'm confused about why you would assume anything.

 

[fourfa]

Not sure on this either. Maybe I am missing something. Please let me know.

There is no Allen hex bolts/screws used on Clayton sway bar rod links. Mine have jam nuts to secure the length.

I also wheeled 19 BOH trails and a boat load of other trails and roads and my Clayton sway bar rod links are still tight and have never once come loose.

Edit: I had to go look at them.

Your talking about the end of the link where it attaches and there is an internal hex/Allen slot.

My next question would be why would they come loose?

I will have to do more research. Thanks.

Sorry, let me clarify. My note has nothing to do with the length adjustment - the double jam nuts work fine for that. It’s getting torque on the rod end shanks to secure them to the axle and swaybar ends. Spanner wrench on the nut, and Allen key in the internal hex (there’s no space for a ratchet or torque wrench between the upper sway bar end and the fender liner).

On mine, as you turn the spanner up to the proper torque, the hex socket started to stretch and expand and round out over time, to where the shank just slips around the hex key. Then it becomes impossible to get proper torque. The shank nut will slowly lose torque and back off. Twice I’ve found mine loose and loudly rattling, and once an upper nut just vanished on the trail. All three on the uppers. Nylocks or stovers might help temporarily but once the hex socket is wallowed out, basically you’re looking at replacing the rod end.

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