Might as well, it’s so easy to do and will make it easier to tuck cleanly around the bottom corners that can be hard to reach. Just a torx bit (comes in the stock tool kit) in four places, all easy to reach
Note that to fold the windshield all the way flat, you need to remove the wiper arms...
One small factor, the RKs have hex heads on both sides (bolt and nut) so for the uppers it's possible to put a torque wrench on the outside (bolt head) and wrench on the inside to hold the nut. MCs have flats instead of a hex head on the outside, and there isn't room to get a torque wrench and...
Sorry, let me clarify. My note has nothing to do with the length adjustment - the double jam nuts work fine for that. It’s getting torque on the rod end shanks to secure them to the axle and swaybar ends. Spanner wrench on the nut, and Allen key in the internal hex (there’s no space for a...
Just FYI, don’t get the Claytons. The only way to keep the shank from spinning is with a rather small Allen hex in the end of the shank. It’s very hard to get proper torque on them in the first place, which means they will loosen up in the field, then get reamed out every time you need to...
I got an iDash to replace my ScanGauge II and man, kicking myself I didn’t do that years earlier. Feels like it’s from the present instead of the 1980s. Nice to set up multiple pages with infrequently-needed things on the alt pages. Up to 8 items per page. I set up my main page with all the...
The Jeep guys in front of me spotted me up, expertly. I’m not sure I would have found this exact line on my own. But on this line, with lockers and more than stock articulation, it was a pretty easy slow crawl. I loved this trail, had a ball the entire day.
@Bucfantitan My winch cutoff switch looks like this:
Basically a small piece of leftover aluminum sheet, probably about 0.100” thick. The mount holes are drilled a bit oversize, with a larger washer to cover them. This is a diesel so your battery will be in a slightly different place, but the...
Boots don’t live forever, true. Neither do ungreaseable u-joints though. On IFS they have to handle both articulation and steering at the same time, which is much harder service than only having to handle steering. All else being equal we should expect longer life from these than standard IFS...
I assume we're only talking about proper aftermarket replacements with no plastic here, no OEM. Synergy, Apex, Teraflex for instance are all $300. (No idea what OEM costs)
Teraflex have positive retention rings (I think more of a circlip than a collar), if that's the main issue
I'll probably...
(The Metalcloak labor day sale excluded Baller Joints, didn't it?)
For what it's worth... when proper non-rebuildable joints are $300 and rebuildable ones are $700 + $157 per rebuild kit, it takes three rebuilds before you come out ahead. (sale pricing might change that a bit). As with many...
I just made a bracket for this exact kind of switch yesterday. Hole saw as noted. Then line up the switch, and ideally use a transfer punch (I think 3/16" was about right) through the mount holes down to the bracket. Then drill carefully.
If you don't have a transfer punch set, a drill bit...
Following. On my previous vehicle (Tacoma), the horns were mounted to just a thin tab of bent-over sheet metal in front of the radiators. On a long section of high speed washboard in Death Valley, one of those bent tab broke off, the horn fell against the A/C condenser and punctured it. Major...
Good thread, thanks. No problems with any of mine yet, but I also lubed with clean motor oil as instructed when new. So it’s just a matter of time, and a pack of 100 will keep me in spares for a long time
I have a pair of black acrylic covers actually - they were less than that, but not that much less. And I wish I had aluminum - the seating surface isn’t flat, and it’s a bit of a guessing game how much to tighten each screw. Acrylic is very brittle and easy to crack around fasteners. I...