NathanG
Well-Known Member
Check your oil level....Took a pic of my paperwork:
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Check your oil level....Took a pic of my paperwork:
Thanks for sending. I have the same part number, however, I'm going to have to check my date code. I hope this one works for you - please keep us all posted. Also: check your oil to ensure they didn't overfill it as many dealerships have been.Took a pic of my paperwork:
Check your oil level....
Thanks for the tip to check my oil level.Thanks for sending. I have the same part number, however, I'm going to have to check my date code. I hope this one works for you - please keep us all posted. Also: check your oil to ensure they didn't overfill it as many dealerships have been.
Good catch, you sir!Check your oil level....
I'm in the process of changing out all the front steering items (Drag Link, Tie Rod, & Track Bar) with Steersmarts parts. What I found when i was taking off the Factory Drag Link was the pivot joint at the spindle knuckled had at best 5 lbs of torque and the both Tie Rod ends the same. When i loosen the nuts on the ends the Tie rod ends the bar just drop down all on it own. The Tie rod bar should be lock into the spindle arm tapper to the point you need to use a puller or knocked loose with a hammer. The factory torque spec is 47lbs but these only had at best 5lbs which is about what the Nylock nut give you. So you should take a torque wrench with a 21mm socket and check yet another item the factory seem to have problem with. So on my jeep the ball joints were loose, and now all the rod ends on the drag link and tie rod were not torqued to spec.I highly recommend that everyone with steering wheel shimmy or death wobble have the torque for the steering components checked, starting with the ball joints. The ball joints on my JL were finger tight. The first dealership I brought it to said they checked the ball joints, they didn't even take it into the shop. Liars. Second dealership put it up on the rack, said they checked it, the cotter pins in the ball joints were still perfectly factory bent when I looked after getting it back, so they lied as well. I guess both of those dealerships thought they had x-ray vision and didn't need to use a torque wrench. I took it to a 3rd dealership, the tech invited me over to check it out to show me that he could move both the left and right ball joints with his fingers after removing the cotter pins. Several others on the JL forum have also reported loose ball joints.
The track bar bolts, lower control arm bolts, drag link and tie rod were not torqued the factory spec. They weren't finger loose, but he estimated they all averaged less than 50% of the factory spec. I watched him turn the drag link bolts at least 4 full turns before the torque wrench beeped. Note: I didn't have the shimmy/death wobble problem. I had these components tightened because I was trying to resolve the loose steering / wandering all over the road steering symptoms. It did partially help that problem. So this isn't proof it will fix the shimmy / death wobble problems, but it IS common sense that this should be checked. Here are the factory specs: https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...rangler-jl-steering-related-components.18510/
Did Steersmart parts fit he wobble? My stock JL Sahara had it at 65 mph at 5,000 miles. How much aftermarket do I need to pay to get a functioning car? How can Jeep be so POORLY ENGINEERED and still be popular?I'm in the process of changing out all the front steering items (Drag Link, Tie Rod, & Track Bar) with Steersmarts parts. What I found when i was taking off the Factory Drag Link was the pivot joint at the spindle knuckled had at best 5 lbs of torque and the both Tie Rod ends the same. When i loosen the nuts on the ends the Tie rod ends the bar just drop down all on it own. The Tie rod bar should be lock into the spindle arm tapper to the point you need to use a puller or knocked loose with a hammer. The factory torque spec is 47lbs but these only had at best 5lbs which is about what the Nylock nut give you. So you should take a torque wrench with a 21mm socket and check yet another item the factory seem to have problem with. So on my jeep the ball joints were loose, and now all the rod ends on the drag link and tie rod were not torqued to spec.
Same as others posted here. Part # 68251580AD.Good to hear. Can you please look on your paperwork and let us all know the actual part number of the stabilizer?
I will let you know if it fixes the wobble, i tried to use their upper mount drag link but it will not clear my wheel, so i'm changing back to the lower mount. Also I'm still in the process of changing out other parts that i think are weak points in the jeep.Did Steersmart parts fit he wobble? My stock JL Sahara had it at 65 mph at 5,000 miles. How much aftermarket do I need to pay to get a functioning car? How can Jeep be so POORLY ENGINEERED and still be popular?
That because the SS is just masking the real problem which Jeep does not want to disclose.Had my SS replaced on a November 20th with 16,000 miles on the Jeep. Shimmy was gone for about one month then slowly started coming back. I had full on death wobble twice this morning at 21,000 miles. Going back to the dealer tomorrow morning.
Is your wobble issue still gone or has it come back?Tired of Death Wobble? Try a new Stabilizer shock this falcon 2.2 Adjustable is amazing. Factory one failed me at 4K miles, I could feel the road it was getting annoying fast. Totally worth the money if you feel like your shock is worn out especially with larger tires