Snapped Shock Bolt, Help!

[GavinH]

When installing new shocks the passenger upper bolt snapped when putting it back in. At first thought I stripped it but the bolt head spins infinitely while the threads out the backside of the welded nut stay in place. I can back the head of the bolt out with a pry bar but how am I going to get the second half of the bolt that’s already threaded in? If I buy a new bolt will it back out the remainder of the snapped one just with friction or is it looking like a job for a mechanic shop?

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[garyji]

Pretty sure you are not going to be able to back that out with just friction. Is the shock in place with pressure on it??

Was this during torquing to specs, or just a weird deal??

G.

 

[GavinH]

Pretty sure you are not going to be able to back that out with just friction. Is the shock in place with pressure on it??

Was this during torquing to specs, or just a weird deal??

G.

At the moment the shock is in place bottom bolt to spec top bolt snapped when getting to spec. It’s difficult to pull the head of the bolt out with the pressure on it so it’s left in place to drive on for the moment but is possible to pull out however I haven’t because I didn’t think it’d go back in. Not sure how far in it snapped it could have happened cleanly on the bracket which then I could remove the shock but I doubt I got that lucky

 

[garyji]

Looks like if you could get pressure off the shock you could remove both halves of the bolt . Seems like it snapped in the middle.
I just did all 4 of mine a few weeks ago with the Fox's.

G.

 

[m3reno]

Get some vise grips and grab the snapped end and continue to follow through until it comes out.

 

[nsfw_andy]

Remove lower shock bolt so there's no more tension applied to on the snapped upper bolt.

Then see if you can just can either twist the snapped bolt that's sticking out with either your hand or vice grips to remove it completely.

 

[deserteagle56]

Had kind of the same situation happen to me...shop welded another bolt to the broken one and then just used a wrench to remove the broken piece along with the piece they'd welded on.

 

[GavinH]

Looks like if you could get pressure off the shock you could remove both halves of the bolt . Seems like it snapped in the middle.
I just did all 4 of mine a few weeks ago with the Fox's.

G.

Once I pull the head of the bolt out how do I remove the threaded part? Just like any typical snapped bolt use an easy out type kit?

Edit: just saw new replies I will attempt it when I get a new bolt tomorrow I’m assuming the stealership should have some handy for sale?

 

[m3reno]

It shouldn't' have snapped, I hope you didn't cross thread it!

 

[GavinH]

It shouldn't' have snapped, I hope you didn't cross thread it!

I really hope not I guess if I did I’ll have to hit or cut off the welded nut and buy a lower one to replace it. Just have to hold it by hand unfortunately

 

[grimmjeeper]

Dealership bolts are pricey. And they don't always keep them in stock.

The bolt is metric so finding a replacement at the local big box store is hit or miss. Hardware stores like Ace or Tru-Value usually have a better selection. You want a grade 10.9 (similar to grade 8 SAE). I don't remember the size off hand but can look it up.

When I can't find it locally, I will order from boltdepot.com. The shipping for a small order is prohibitive but it can still be cheaper than the dealership.

 

[Tncdrew]

Another source...

Mcmaster-Carr
mcmaster.com

 

[GearWhore]

Was the bolt hard to turn the whole time? Was the bolt almost all the way in and you were just torquing when it snapped? The threads on the back side of the nut don't look damaged from your video, but you may be able to see wonkiness better in person. Hopefully they are in good shape and you didn't cross-thread the bolt. You'd likely know if you were cross-threading it when installing, as it would be hard to turn the bolt after only a few threads have made contact, and it looks like you got it pretty far in.

You should be able to push your fender liner up high enough to get a straight shot at the bolt. If not, you may have to remove it. Removing it will certainly make the process easier for you (or a shop).

As others have said, remove the bottom bolt and let the shock hang from the upper (broken) bolt. This will remove the shock pressure on the upper bolt and you should be able to work it out without too much drama. You may have to support and wiggle the shock a little while pulling out the bolt.

Hopefully the bolt snapped near the nut, so when you pull out the bolt head the shock will drop free. From the images I can see of the bolt online, there appears to be a tapered/reduced cross-section in the bolt between the threaded end and the smooth shaft which would be a likely failure point.

From there you can use a drill and bolt extractor/easy-out kit as you mention. Even if the shock doesn't drop out, you can still do this. Spray the nut and remaining bolt with PB Blaster or a similar penetrating catalyst/lubricant.

Alternatively, you can try cleaning up/filing/sanding the broken side of the bolt bottom and try to continue threading it into the back side using a vice grip (if there's enough room) or grind a slit in the broken end and use a large flat-blade screwdriver. Continuing to thread it through the nut, if it isn't seized, will require much less rotation than backing it all the way out.

Almost 300 Ace Hardwares in Florida, so hopefully you're close to one. I've had really good luck finding random fasteners at two locally.

The OEM bolt is Mopar part # 6512467AA - Hex Flange Head Bolt and Washer. $4.20 MSRP.

 

[GavinH]

Was the bolt hard to turn the whole time? Was the bolt almost all the way in and you were just torquing when it snapped? The threads on the back side of the nut don't look damaged from your video, but you may be able to see wonkiness better in person. Hopefully they are in good shape and you didn't cross-thread the bolt. You'd likely know if you were cross-threading it when installing, as it would be hard to turn the bolt after only a few threads have made contact, and it looks like you got it pretty far in.

You should be able to push your fender liner up high enough to get a straight shot at the bolt. If not, you may have to remove it. Removing it will certainly make the process easier for you (or a shop).

As others have said, remove the bottom bolt and let the shock hang from the upper (broken) bolt. This will remove the shock pressure on the upper bolt and you should be able to work it out without too much drama. You may have to support and wiggle the shock a little while pulling out the bolt.

Hopefully the bolt snapped near the nut, so when you pull out the bolt head the shock will drop free. From the images I can see of the bolt online, there appears to be a tapered/reduced cross-section in the bolt between the threaded end and the smooth shaft which would be a likely failure point.

From there you can use a drill and bolt extractor/easy-out kit as you mention. Even if the shock doesn't drop out, you can still do this. Spray the nut and remaining bolt with PB Blaster or a similar penetrating catalyst/lubricant.

Alternatively, you can try cleaning up/filing/sanding the broken side of the bolt bottom and try to continue threading it into the back side using a vice grip (if there's enough room) or grind a slit in the broken end and use a large flat-blade screwdriver. Continuing to thread it through the nut, if it isn't seized, will require much less rotation than backing it all the way out.

Almost 300 Ace Hardwares in Florida, so hopefully you're close to one. I've had really good luck finding random fasteners at two locally.

The OEM bolt is Mopar part # 6512467AA - Hex Flange Head Bolt and Washer. $4.20 MSRP.

Thank you for all this helpful info the bolt was easily going in the entire time, wasn’t until I torqued it down when this happened. I can easily get the non threaded part of the bolt out it’s just the part threaded into the nut that’s questionable. I decided to leave the whole bolt in currently under the shock pressure to give it more support while driving i don’t want to pull it out until I have the replacement in hand. I have 2 aces in my town I’ll go to tomorrow I’m really hoping the threads aren’t seized up so I can use vice grips to back the rest out, the tip for a flat head will be my next step. When going back over it in my head I had the top torqued, couldn’t get the bottom in the bracket so I loosened the top for more adjustment(barely backed out just to undo torque), torqued the bottom and then when trying to torque the top after the bottom was torqued it snapped. If I had to guess the added pressure upwards from the bottom shock being seated and my not perfectly angled torque wrench caused the snap.
I have a trail ride planned for Saturday so Im really not trying to ship the bolt here but it is what it is if it comes to it, paying dealership prices may be worth it just so I can make it out.

Also believe this is the bolt size if anyone can certify: m12x1.50×120

 

[GearWhore]

I decided to leave the whole bolt in currently under the shock pressure to give it more support while driving i don’t want to pull it out until I have the replacement in hand.

Also believe this is the bolt size if anyone can certify: m12x1.50×120

I'd avoid driving with the bolt snapped. You could likely damage/wallow out the outer bolt hole and then you'll never get a tight, unsloppy connection without welding new material in the hole.

And yes, can confirm you have the correct bolt size.

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