Yeah…I drilled my own hole. I really liked the location. With a good step bit it was easy.
I found it ???
Oh man . . . Been crazy busy (which is good, keeps me out of trouble) - so, lots and lots of research and vids and tutorials but still no luck on a solid, informative set of instructions or process on installing a Kicker 46HS10 hideaway into a Jeep JL . . . Some "okay" write ups and discussions but still very confusing and conflicting information! Really wish Kicker / Crutchfield or anyone, at this point, would produce a solid install vid!!!!! Ugh!!!!! Still confused on blue wire auto on/off (one discussion was attaching it to the 12V in the center dash and others don't connect it at all) placement of powered sub itself (under passenger seat ideally but finding that to be an issue and definitely not under rear seats, maybe make a behind the seat neoprene holder, using the sleeve storage of the seat and some carpet covered wood and straps, IDK?) and tapping into the B pillar (sound bar "rear" speakers) . . . Just . . . Ugh . . . And mother nature ain't helping!!
You don’t need the blue wire. The sub will turn on when it senses the signal from the wires in the pillar. I only connected power line to aux cable and then spliced into those speaker lines and then ran the gain control knob up front.
Yes…choose DC as opposed to 12v on the amp. Just put some electrical tape (Super 33+ is the good stuff) or adhesive lined heat shrink at the end of the blue wire and coil it up out of the way. Or cut it short and do the same as above.
Now the pos / neg tapping into B pillar . . . Do I splice the B pillar wire, expose the inner wiring (by removing outer tubing), twist appropriate exposed wires together and stick the twisted wires (2 wires twisted together - one being the B pillar wire, the other being a wire from the powered sub harness) into one end of a crimp connector and then the single exposed wire (the other end of the spliced B pillar wire)? Basically, it looks like an upsidedown Y (2 wires twisted together - B pillar wire, pos or neg, twisted together to power sub harness wire, pos or neg) leading up and through to the rest of the B pillar wire? I'm sure there are dozens of ways or get T taps and those flat connectors?
One thing that I recommend when attaching the HS10 is that you go to Home Depot, Lowes, etc and get a bit of 3/4 MDF to adhere to the floor board (under the carpet). I always use quality caulk and apply liberally (after cleaning the area well of dirt, grease, etc) and let set for a day. Reinstall the carpet. Then use a course thread screw to attach the unit to the MDF instead of into the floorboard.
Definitely don’t do any quick connector like a T-Tap, Posi-Tap, etc. Those are good for temporary usage.
I've been drawing up ideas in my head for weeks now on that very concept and have done a deep dive into "removing passenger seat Jeep JL" on YouTube and Google and have found absolutely fucking nothing!!! NOTHING!!! To help navigate or help brainstorming for ideas of seeing what the floor board and terrain looks like under the passenger seat but again, nothing!! Yes, some shitty vids of fuck-all jagoffs, with crappy presentation and hosting skills and some crap-tastic lighting and botched instructions and tutorials. But seriously!? And they are sponsored vids too . . . Disappointed and depressing . . . Why is this like trying to capture a unicorn impossible!? Probably cause all the unicorns were already slaughtered in my vehicle (still finding glitter and chocolate syrup on things)!?
Right on - so 2 wires into one end of the connector and then it continues up and through to a single wire on the other end (left pos to left pos twisted and left neg to left neg twisted...and so on)?Definitely don’t do any quick connector like a T-Tap, Posi-Tap, etc. Those are good for temporary usage.
A butt connector works well. Make sure it’s the correct size for two wires coming into it. If you look closely by my fingers you can see both wires coming into the connector. The other side I also have two wires of the same size (so you get a good crimp), but one of the wires I cut short (you can see the lump under the heat shrink)..
