Simple Subwoofer Upgrade!?

[Ghostwolf]

New Jeep JL owner here, excited and proud to be in the club . . .

Although, not to be a downer but the factory audio system in my 2018 JL Unlimited Sport is majorly lacking . . . Well . . . Lacking everything - crispness, punch, mid and definitely low end!!! Debating the OEM Audio Plus 25 hundred full system upgrade but would have to sell my body on the corner to pay for it and to be honest, I'm in a total mutant sludge beast phase at the moment and seriously doubt I'd get any takers . . .

I have already upgraded the dash and roll bar speakers and I can already "hear" a distinct difference (for the better) but definitely missing low end and bass . . .

Wondering your thoughts on installing a smaller "under seat" powered subwoofer (which are 50/50 reviewed with most of the negative reviews stating the same issue - they simply stop working) . . . I'm not the most Radio Shack savvy but know my way around and a little confused on "tapping" into the factory head unit vs attaching to an amp (separate from a powered sub and where and why do RCA cables get involved, ugh) - hell spells Loretta, I'm already taking the entire dash apart, might as well do it right and go for an amp separate from the subwoofer, at 10 or 12 inches (every man's dream) but again, confused on plugging into the factory HU!? Thoughts? Questions? Concerns?

I DO NOT want to go overboard and rattle the mirrors off the vehicle - just a little punch!

Side note: pre speaker upgrade volume was at 25ish to 30 just to hear it, now, post upgrade, I'm sitting at 15 to 18 and plenty loud . . . P.S. 7 inch Uconnect head unit, if that helps . . . Willing to upgrade knee speakers too . . . Help!?

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[JasonInDLH]

I’m in the process of adding the 10” JLAudio Driver Side Stealth Box to my factory 8.4” receiver. You’ll need a Line Output Converter (I opted for an Audio Control LC2i PRO to tap into my Alpine amplified speakers at the bottom of the passenger side b-pillar). From that I’ll run quality RCA to my mono amp and then speaker wire to the sub.

The hardest part of it all has been figuring out where to put everything (installing a Cap as well). At first, I was going to install the amp under the front passenger seat, but quickly noticed the heat vent that would blow hot air directly at the amp. No bueno.

I opted under the rear seat (I have a 4 door). A good factory ground is about 12” away from the amp, so it’s the perfect spot.

I’m going to remove these plastic Posi-Taps and connect the wires directly in the future and I suggest you do the same(just want to get this on and tested before stripping any wires). Also, I still need to tap two more wires. This is passenger side b-pillar…

Here’s the wire colors for the base audio (appears to be the same for the Alpine upgrade)…

I installed a grommet in the passenger side floor board for the power and I eventually tucked the wire under that black plastic piece. The smaller gauge wire is power for the Audio Control LOC mentioned previously (I need to refuse this with a 5 amp fuse).

Driver Side 10” 2ohm sub…

Still dialing in the location of everything. I added MDF board underneath the carpet and will use caulk to glue it to the floor. I’ll screw the amp into the MDF. There’s a great factory ground under the loose trim piece. There is a bass control knob run to the dash on the driver-side from the AudioControl…

Still debating if I want the cap here or not…

I also need to figure out a good way to stop the bottom of the seat from resting on the amp while folded. For now I’ll simply put a block of wood.

 

[Ghostwolf]

Well done . . . Thanks for sharing and best of luck - that's all a little too invasive for me (and expensive) but good on you - keep on keeping on . . . I am intrigued by the LC2i Pro and seems to help "tune" the system properly, especially with powered and amped signal - this is all over my head and more research is definitely needed - not finding much on YouTube for install or solid informative clips or information (a little all over the place and not the best presentation or presenters) - hence reaching out here! This tapping into the B pillar speaker wires is fascinating (do you still have to plug into the rear of the head unit)? Again, thanks for sharing and keep me posted on your success . . .

 

[JasonInDLH]

Well done . . . Thanks for sharing and best of luck - that's all a little too invasive for me (and expensive) but good on you - keep on keeping on . . . I am intrigued by the LC2i Pro and seems to help "tune" the system properly, especially with powered and amped signal - this is all over my head and more research is definitely needed - not finding much on YouTube for install or solid informative clips or information (a little all over the place and not the best presentation or presenters) - hence reaching out here! This tapping into the B pillar speaker wires is fascinating (do you still have to plug into the rear of the head unit)? Again, thanks for sharing and keep me posted on your success . . .

You won’t need to plug anything into the rear of the receiver by tapping into the speaker wire (but you will need a Line Output Converter). Your install will basically be like mine except a tad bit easier since your amp and sub is one unit.

 

[JasonInDLH]

I think a powered sub under the seat is a great option. Here’s some thoughts:

Make sure the amp ground is as short as possible (I aim for 12” or less) and it’s a good grounding point (Jeep does a good job of having factory ground bolts all over). I like to paint over the ground connection to ward off potential corrosion (I live in salty MN, so salt can get everywhere).

Never run RCA’s near the large gauge amp power wire (you won’t need to worry about this since the RCA will run from your LOC to your powered sub.

I recommend gluing a piece of MDF to the floor pan and screwing the amp to the MDF to reduce noise (the noise that comes through you speakers). Although, I’ve never done this with a powered sub, so maybe add a bunch of glue (or caulk like I’ll be doing). Or, if the MDF doesn’t work from too much vibration, then perhaps you could use rubber washers so that no metal contacts the amp/powered sub som

Make sure the inline fuse (the one you will install near the battery for the power wire) to the powered sub is rated for your particular amp (or powered sub). My amplifier recommends running a 30 amp fuse and that’s all it needs. If I were to run, say, a 100 amp fuse, well, that could lead to severe consequences if there were a short.

Use quality wires that are AWG rated. I’ve seen cheap “gauge” wire and quality AWG wire. From the outside, both will look the same size. It’s a whole different story on the inside.

Like I said, the hardest part of this is figuring out where to put everything. But in your case, that should be much easier. You got this!

 

[TheBirdie72]

I upgraded the dash and soundbar speakers too with kicker brand speakers - Definite improvement.

For added bass, I got a Kicker hideaway 46HS10 installed under the front passenger seat on my JL 2 door. Sounds awesome, solid punchy low end thump, and fits under there perfectly. Well worth it!

 

[dragoneggs]

I don't know what your stock system entails. I have a the OEM subwoofer and it is plenty dang good. If you don't have a subwoofer, don't try to get by with a 'smaller' sub. Waste of money. You need the diameter to push air at low frequencies. Do it right if a booming tight bass is important.

 

[Ghostwolf]

I don't know what your stock system entails. I have a the OEM subwoofer and it is plenty dang good. If you don't have a subwoofer, don't try to get by with a 'smaller' sub. Waste of money. You need the diameter to push air at low frequencies. Do it right if a booming tight bass is important.

Right on . . . That's my daily back and forth and dilemma - go big or not at all but then we get into price and additional wiring and amps and converters and space . . . Plus, I'm doing this on the streets of NYC - not in a garage or in the safety of a driveway . . . Out in the everyday streets . . . King of wishful thinking and I really want to do the install myself (just to learn) and I love problem solving and puzzles but this is turning into an expensive hobby and lots and lots of variables . . . The stock head unit is the Uconnect 4, 7 inch display . . . I am using Android Auto (amazing well, with an Ottocast AA Air, which is plugged into a USB A splitter in the center console and also attached to a wireless charger that I attached to the center console) - pleasantly surprised at how well it works . . . Anyways, still lots to research . . . But appreciate the support and ideas!!

 

[Ghostwolf]

I upgraded the dash and soundbar speakers too with kicker brand speakers - Definite improvement.

For added bass, I got a Kicker hideaway 46HS10 installed under the front passenger seat on my JL 2 door. Sounds awesome, solid punchy low end thump, and fits under there perfectly. Well worth it!

Did you tap into the B pillar speaker wires or to the rear of the head unit? Have you had any issues with the under seat sub overheating or poor performance?

 

[Ghostwolf]

I think a powered sub under the seat is a great option. Here’s some thoughts:

Make sure the amp ground is as short as possible (I aim for 12” or less) and it’s a good grounding point (Jeep does a good job of having factory ground bolts all over). I like to paint over the ground connection to ward off potential corrosion (I live in salty MN, so salt can get everywhere).

Never run RCA’s near the large gauge amp power wire (you won’t need to worry about this since the RCA will run from your LOC to your powered sub.

I recommend gluing a piece of MDF to the floor pan and screwing the amp to the MDF to reduce noise (the noise that comes through you speakers). Although, I’ve never done this with a powered sub, so maybe add a bunch of glue (or caulk like I’ll be doing). Or, if the MDF doesn’t work from too much vibration, then perhaps you could use rubber washers so that no metal contacts the amp/powered sub som

Make sure the inline fuse (the one you will install near the battery for the power wire) to the powered sub is rated for your particular amp (or powered sub). My amplifier recommends running a 30 amp fuse and that’s all it needs. If I were to run, say, a 100 amp fuse, well, that could lead to severe consequences if there were a short.

Use quality wires that are AWG rated. I’ve seen cheap “gauge” wire and quality AWG wire. From the outside, both will look the same size. It’s a whole different story on the inside.

Like I said, the hardest part of this is figuring out where to put everything. But in your case, that should be much easier. You got this!

You won’t need to plug anything into the rear of the receiver by tapping into the speaker wire (but you will need a Line Output Converter). Your install will basically be like mine except a tad bit easier since your amp and sub is one unit.

Line Out Converter? Is that like the LC2i Pro thingy or the pac something-or-another? Ultimately, the "power" runs to the battery under the hood (along with a fuse pending amperage) and there needs to be a ground wire attached to a factory bolt (somewhere on the vehicle, with no paint) and then I get confused with the rest of the wiring - powered sub or amp or line converter and where do I plug them in or cut it string together or metra purchase? We can put a man on the moon but Jeep can't make low end, low level frequency easy to obtain . . . Hell, we can basically completely modify the entire vehicle but to add bass is like herding cats . . . Ugh . . . Appreciate y'all taking the time and brainstorming with me! My ceiling at this point is 450 to 500 bucks - I just dropped everything I had to purchase the darn thing in the first place . . . Just wish I had known about the craptastic sound system! Cue trombone slide . . .

 

[JasonInDLH]

Line Out Converter? Is that like the LC2i Pro thingy or the pac something-or-another? Ultimately, the "power" runs to the battery under the hood (along with a fuse pending amperage) and there needs to be a ground wire attached to a factory bolt (somewhere on the vehicle, with no paint) and then I get confused with the rest of the wiring - powered sub or amp or line converter and where do I plug them in or cut it string together or metra purchase? We can put a man on the moon but Jeep can't make low end, low level frequency easy to obtain . . . Hell, we can basically completely modify the entire vehicle but to add bass is like herding cats . . . Ugh . . . Appreciate y'all taking the time and brainstorming with me! My ceiling at this point is 450 to 500 bucks - I just dropped everything I had to purchase the darn thing in the first place . . . Just wish I had known about the craptastic sound system! Cue trombone slide . . .

Honestly, I didn’t know about the Pac AmpPro when I ordered the Audio Control. But glad I got the Audio Control as the Pac involves getting to the rear of the receiver (which I don’t want to do) and the sub preamp output is only 5 volt RMS whereas the LC2i is 9.5 volts RMS (not to mention it’s less money).

For my setup above, I’ll have the following when I’m finished:
-two power wires (with in-line fuses) from battery…. 4 awg to amp and 16 or 18 (or is it 20, I can’t remember) awg to Lc2i. I’m installing a distribution block to split my 4awg to power my capacitor as well.
-Three separate ground wires (Lc2i, amp, and capacitor)
-10 awg wire from amp to sub (you definitely don’t need to worry about this!)
-18 awg (give or take as I can’t remember right now?) speaker wire tapped from factory speaker wire to Lc2i.

Easy peasy!

 

[JasonInDLH]

One of my first audio installs was on the street (granted it was a dead end in a much smaller city than NYC). I can’t imagine what it would be like to do it in NYC! ?‍?

 

[JasonInDLH]

I forgot to add the RCA connection from the Audio Control LC2i to the amp.

 

[TheBirdie72]

Did you tap into the B pillar speaker wires or to the rear of the head unit? Have you had any issues with the under seat sub overheating or poor performance?

Not sure, I had Best Buy do the install. No issues with under seat sub overheating or poor performance. It’s like this thing was made for the Jeep. I think a guy in an online YouTube review even said exactly that. Zero complaints whatsoever. I even mounted the separate bass control knob to the front of the center console (just above ebrake handle) - perfect spot.

 

[Bzinsky]

I was going to upgrade my stereo, but I realized I love having the ability to leave my top open in the rain, hose down the interior, and go through water so deep it comes in through the doors. The oem weather resistance is a nice feature, even if it’s just for piece of mind.

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