Rubicon sway bar questions

[redracer]

It would be nice to find out what kind of electrical signals are received trough the terminal attached to the bar when running sway kill . this would probably make it easier to rig it up onto a simple switch.

I believe that this is all done via the Can Bus signals. The sway bar itself is interacting on the Can Bus. The sway kill on the tazer operates via continuously issuing a tester present command on the bus then commanding the sway bar to operate as a "test".

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[fuelfox4949]

Affirm

Go_galt stated he wanted to blast around in 4h without the swaybar attached.
that's why i commented and said 4h can without swaybar also.
You never know but someone may have learned something new today.

 

[AZJeepGuy]

2019 JLUR owner. Can confirm. If you shift out of 4Low or go above 15mph (I believe) it auto reconnects the Swaybar. There's a little message on the dash that says so when it happens. I believe you can disconnect it w/ a programmer like Tazer or JScan, but I don't really care enough to bother with that.
After crawling around in the dirt/ snow to fight with a manual disconnect on my TJ's, I don't think I'll ever run one of those again unless it's a trail only rig. I like the push of a button.

You can use the sway bar disconnect in 4H and at 20 mph it reconnects. When you go back under 20 it disconnects.

 

[Petey]

I believe that this is all done via the Can Bus signals. The sway bar itself is interacting on the Can Bus. The sway kill on the tazer operates via continuously issuing a tester present command on the bus then commanding the sway bar to operate as a "test".

I haven't taken mine a part yet but maybe in the future I will .. is can bus a pulse width signal or maybe some resistance number? And would u know if the actuator needs the signal to lock it back into position or might this be done by some physical spring action so that no electrical input is needed to lock the bar as fail safe?

Thanks

 

[RubiSc0tt]

That, coupled with the RK No Limits swaybar links I dont have to physically fuss with links, and they offer so much misalignment that I don't feel they restrict flex like the other aftermarket links do.

I have those too. They're awesome. Like I said: I love not having to crawl around in the dirt and snow to mess with the swaybar after wheeling.

You can use the sway bar disconnect in 4H and at 20 mph it reconnects. When you go back under 20 it disconnects.

I stand corrected. Thank you!

 

[redracer]

I haven't taken mine a part yet but maybe in the future I will .. is can bus a pulse width signal or maybe some resistance number? And would u know if the actuator needs the signal to lock it back into position or might this be done by some physical spring action so that no electrical input is needed to lock the bar as fail safe?

Thanks

No, it's not a PWM, it's a digital network. There are addresses and data being sent from all of the devices in the jeep.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CAN_bus#Frames

From our canbus spreadsheet, I can tell you that it reports on the CAN-C network.

ID: 0x371 - SWAY BAR CONNECT STATUS
$xx00000000000000 -- plunger sensor
$0200000000000000 -- Unlock in progress
$0100000000000000 -- Unlocked
$0200000000000000 -- Lock in progress
$0000000000000000 -- Locked

 

[Roky]

I use swaykill every single time I'm on dirt and can't say enough good things about it as a feature. It's absolutely ridiculous that the factory swaybar disconnect can't just be permanently disconnected in 4H/4L. I cover a lot of miles on trail sometimes in 2H/4H and I want the swaybar to be disconnected the entire trip, all week/weekend until my tires hit pavement again. SwayKill is the only thing that does it for me.

That, coupled with the RK No Limits swaybar links I dont have to physically fuss with links, and they offer so much misalignment that I don't feel they restrict flex like the other aftermarket links do.

Definitely this…….. I’ve been known to take it one step further, and run disconnected on the pavement…. Some city streets are less than desirable to drive on, dire need for infrastructure TLC…..plus a lot of people I know have up to a half mile driveway through cow pastures….lol. Swaykill rocks…

 

[kah.mun.rah]

If the Rubicon sway bar disconnect system can be taken out, sold, and put into a Sport or Sahara, what is the re-sell value and anyone interested in buying one?

 

[jessedacri]

Definitely this…….. I’ve been known to take it one step further, and run disconnected on the pavement…. Some city streets are less than desirable to drive on, dire need for infrastructure TLC…..plus a lot of people I know have up to a half mile driveway through cow pastures….lol. Swaykill rocks…

Oh yeah, I absolutely disconnect it often on the road too. Los Angeles city driving is so much smoother with the disconnect lol. And being able to reconnect on my way down an onramp to a highway, it's great. So many bumps and hills and rooted up pavement out here on the hilly neighborhoods that I got sick of the Jeep's body getting tossed violently when I know how smooth things are with the disconnect active.

 

[Jtclayton612]

If the Rubicon sway bar disconnect system can be taken out, sold, and put into a Sport or Sahara, what is the re-sell value and anyone interested in buying one?

it can, a few have been sold in the market section if you want to take a look

 

[sstuner]

@UnBilleted , I haven't seen a front Rubicon type sway bar disconnect for the rear.

 

[Sean L]

I just bought a rubi sway bar for my Sahara and did some research on it, it seems like no one has successfully rigged aftermarket electronics to work on it without frying the motor. Since the motors are so delicate and failure prone anyway, I'm just going to run it with one of these:
https://evomfg.com/products/nolimits-manual-rubicon-swaybar-disconnect-jk-jl-jt

It'll still make it super easy so disconnect and reconnect, compared to pulling the links or using a disconnecting link kit.

This is seriously the best mod I've done on the Jeep! Only takes a few seconds to turn that knob to disconnect and reconnect.

 

[Slowregal]

While on the subject of swaybars... How reliable is the stock oem swaybar disconnect on a '22 jlur?My jeep has 1500 miles(2 weeks of ownership) and the swaybar disconnect system is already faulty. I get the "Service Swaybar system" icon when trying to activate it, I have to press it many times and eventually the sway bar icon will flash once or twice then nothing. It just does not work anymore. Have an appointment set up for Thursday, see what the dealership says. Already swapped fuse and checked connector, everything ok.

 

[Headbarcode]

Are there any disadvantages to the antirock off-road? In my head I feel that it would ultimately result in more resistance when flexing on obstacles but do you not notice this to be the case?

I've always been curious but kind of like the tech aspect of being able to hit a button and loosen up the rig for trail use. Until it breaks, at least.

Don't get me wrong, I really liked the Rubicon edisconnect and RK No Limits links combo. It worked great for me and many others here as well, I was just kinda playing up to my "enabler" label that a bunch of members made for me. ?

The only reasons I swapped out that setup were the front links were a tad too short when fully extended and the rear bar was hitting the bottoms of the frame a hair before full stuff. I really needed the longer pair of No Limits links, but that would've been another $300 on top of the first set. And had I known I was going to jump up from the 38's that allowed the rear bar to hit the frame to 40's that don't, I could've just got those front links and been done with it. Hope that makes any kind of sense.

The Antirocks flex a couple inches less when lifting one wheel with the Jeep on level ground, when compared to the factory front and rear setups. It's because they are designed to equally share the articulation, which helps to keep the body as level as possible for as long as possible. By the time it's starting to reach full rack, more of the vehicles weight is beginning to lean over instead of continuing to press down against the increasing resistance of the twisting bars, so a second wheel starts to lift before full stuff.

In a real world scenario, the ground isn't level. When a front wheel is climbing, along with an adjacent rear, the body will stay more level and keeping the weight over the axles will help those wheels to get fully stuffed.

An added plus to having 2 connected sway bars that are on the softer side vs a stiffer rear to offset a fully disconnected front, is more control over body weight transfer when cresting over an obstacle and a drooped wheel all of a sudden goes to full stuff. Although, that's more of a benefit to those like myself who are newer to offroading and not used to that feel. It triggers a knee-jerk reaction to hit the brakes instead of rolling through it.

And this isn't meant to be taken by anyone as my claiming that one setup is better than another. Just simply a hodge podge of some personal experience and a bunch of research on what one can get out of the Antirocks. I'll be putting it to the real test over the next couple of weeks.

 

[Petey]

Could you put a disco on the rear? ?

U can but have to make one urself I dont know anyone who makes something like that

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