When wiring of the factory lockers is it simply positive and negative and either on or off?Yeah that’s a SOLID pass just for two connectors lol here’s the part numbers for everything you’ll need.
Yes. It’s that simple.
Thanks
I recommend if you are wiring lockers you run the switch to through a relay to prevent frying it.
I run mine with the low amp Auxiliary switches, 3 and 4 without issues.
They are on relays, I don’t think it’s that big a deal as the amp draw for that actuator is not very high. Any good quality switch would have no problem carrying the load.
I'm having trouble finding a circuit diagram, but it looks like the lockers are on a 15 amp fuse...so a standalone switch would need to carry that current.
15 amps is the max current before the fuse blows, the actual running amps is much less. The wire to the locker is a 0.75 mm or a little less than 18 gauge (0.83 mm) which when used in a continuous duty is rated at about 3 amps. The size of the wire says to me the load on it is pretty small.
This is good info. I don't want to drag out the thread, but I'm seeing 18 gauge rated as high as 15 amps. Not saying that's what the actuator needs, but I would choose carefully if wiring up my own switch.
Thanks for the info. I have the Voswitch 6 switch panel with built in relays and fuses I will use.
Gregj is correct.. I measured the continuous current consumption of the lockers and is around 3 amps.. so a switch could easily handle that load.. no need for a relay.. however !!!! do not forget to add a fuse to the circuit ( 15 amps should be ok )
Awesome. I use the VO Switch also for mine! Plug and play for any future upgrades.
I could be wrong, but what I am getting is that the OP abandoned wiring to an OEM switch as it would be more costly. I have been researching the opposite and trying to get my lockers off the OEM switch onto separate switches. I like controlling the lockers as needed, not just all or rear only. (I have a hard time with getting it in rear only anyways)
