what did you go with for front bump stopMy goal was to fix the limited factory bump travel so I did shocks with more travel and also had to replace the front jounce tube with air bump stops. Springs are still stock. Had to do a couple of minor things like space the rear sway bar down to stop it hitting the shock body at full droop.
Stock front shocks had a 7.33" stroke, replacement has 10.17". Rear 7.88", replacement 11.17". Stock front bump travel 2.875" metal to metal, now 6.0". Fairly big difference off road. Rear bump travel was not as bad; don't have the measurements here but I increased bump travel 1.75".
I wanted to keep the springs stock so that I would not have to play games with spacers to get the Jeep level again.
I think this is what I am leaning towards. What shocks did you go with?My goal was to fix the limited factory bump travel so I did shocks with more travel and also had to replace the front jounce tube with air bump stops. Springs are still stock. Had to do a couple of minor things like space the rear sway bar down to stop it hitting the shock body at full droop.
Stock front shocks had a 7.33" stroke, replacement has 10.17". Rear 7.88", replacement 11.17". Stock front bump travel 2.875" metal to metal, now 6.0". Fairly big difference off road. Rear bump travel was not as bad; don't have the measurements here but I increased bump travel 1.75".
I wanted to keep the springs stock so that I would not have to play games with spacers to get the Jeep level again.
Fox air bumps. I hear a clunk as the pad hits about 1.5" from bottoming out but it never actually bottoms out because the bumps are progressive. If anyone installs these the instructions are incorrect for the giant jounce tubes found on the XR/392/Diesel.what did you go with for front bump stop
Fox factory race 2-3". I'm not 100% happy with them because they are still too harsh for my liking. They work really well if you drive the vehicle hard and work the suspension fully; I suspect this is how they were developed. But if you are driving down a trail at normal speeds with 4-6" rocks then the dampening is far too harsh. For some reason when towing on pavement they are perfect. Anyhow.I think this is what I am leaning towards. What shocks did you go with?
I was going to throw on 1/2 spacers all around when I went to 37s just for a little more clearance, but that’s up in the air.
I did the same. Also, no regrets. The stock XR was always bottoming out.Ripped it all out and put in a Metal a cloak Gamechanger 3.5” kit.
No Ragrets.
Yeah already tracking the rear bump stops. I think cutting the bump tower down and new shocks for longer droop is what I want to do. I don’t hate the stock ride.Fox air bumps. I hear a clunk as the pad hits about 1.5" from bottoming out but it never actually bottoms out because the bumps are progressive. If anyone installs these the instructions are incorrect for the giant jounce tubes found on the XR/392/Diesel.
I also found my post from a year ago.
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/fo...our-jeep-jl-today.3033/page-3864#post-2563941
Turns out I added so much crap to my Jeep I spaced it around an inch to get the ride height back to normal.
Fox factory race 2-3". I'm not 100% happy with them because they are still too harsh for my liking. They work really well if you drive the vehicle hard and work the suspension fully; I suspect this is how they were developed. But if you are driving down a trail at normal speeds with 4-6" rocks then the dampening is far too harsh. For some reason when towing on pavement they are perfect. Anyhow.
With 37s you'll need to add bumpstop back in or attack the inner fender.
Oh, and back to the OP, it's probably easier just to do the whole package - springs, shocks, end links, caster correction.