Reid Racing Steering knuckles

[oceanblue2019]

I would suggest RCV Axle tube seals. Long term, your front axle will thank you.

Some debate on this as not having outer seals means if the inners leak you will see oil and know something is wrong. With outer seals you will have no signs of inner leaks unless you routinely check fluid level or get low enough you hear it.

I trust your opinion so what's your thoughts on this?

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[oceanblue2019]

I saw synergy has the JL ball joints now. Roughly $300

Teraflex debuted their JL ball joints at SEMA but I don’t think they are released for sale yet. I believe they are around $300 also. Lower cost than dynatrac and way better than stock. I ran the teraflex in my jk and had zero issues. I know people who’ve ram the synergy and had zero issues.

I'd not trust Teraflex for something that is as much work as a balljoint to install and spend the extra for Dynatrac.

The cost of the parts is small versus the cost of install - even if you DIY.

 

[falcon241073]

I'd not trust Teraflex for something that is as much work as a balljoint to install and spend the extra for Dynatrac.

The cost of the parts is small versus the cost of install - even if you DIY.

I never had an issue with them in my JKU. And I won’t use the synergy ball joints based on my experience with their tie rod ends on the tie rod and drag link in my JKU. So either I trust teraflex ball joints or spend another $350 on dynatrac.

There’s two arguments there.
1. It’s only another $350 on top of axles, truss, probably knuckles.
2. Damn another $350 on top of the other components.

Lol.
My biggest decision is when am I doing all this? I’m leaning spring 2022

 

[oceanblue2019]

I never had an issue with them in my JKU. And I won’t use the synergy ball joints based on my experience with their tie rod ends on the tie rod and drag link in my JKU. So either I trust teraflex ball joints or spend another $350 on dynatrac.

There’s two arguments there.
1. It’s only another $350 on top of axles, truss, probably knuckles.
2. Damn another $350 on top of the other components.

Lol.
My biggest decision is when am I doing all this? I’m leaning spring 2022

Just one quick google search but many similar stories.... If they can't get a simple trackbar right I would doubt something with more precision required.

 

[word302]

Just one quick google search but many similar stories.... If they can't get a simple trackbar right I would doubt something with more precision required.

Yeah I won't give Terraflex or Synergy a dime. The fact that the Dynatracs are rebuildable in place is worth it's weight in gold. Everytime you press these things in/out you're wallering out there holes a little more. Buy once, cry once.

 

[falcon241073]

Just one quick google search but many similar stories.... If they can't get a simple trackbar right I would doubt something with more precision required.

Ok. I wasn’t defending them. I said I didn’t have any issues on my jk. And it wasn’t a parking lot princess. I also didn’t have issues with their trackbar on my JKU. Maybe I was lucky? Maybe their JL stuff isn’t as good? Maybe they have gone downhill since I put all that stuff on my JKU in 2014? I’m running metalcloak suspension on my JLU.
I just said there are other options for ball joints that are better than stock. But I get it. You, and a few other, hate teraflex. And that’s ok. I don’t work there nor have stock. So hate away.

 

[oceanblue2019]

Ok. I wasn’t defending them. I said I didn’t have any issues on my jk. And it wasn’t a parking lot princess. I also didn’t have issues with their trackbar on my JKU. Maybe I was lucky? Maybe their JL stuff isn’t as good? Maybe they have gone downhill since I put all that stuff on my JKU in 2014? I’m running metalcloak suspension on my JLU.
I just said there are other options for ball joints that are better than stock. But I get it. You, and a few other, hate teraflex. And that’s ok. I don’t work there nor have stock. So hate away.

I think quality has gone down hill since they were bought out.

I have a couple parts from them that nobody else makes similar and happy with it. But nothing that is under a lot of mechanical load where these sorts of issues would start to happen.

It's too bad as they do have some clever parts.

 

[chevymitchell]

Some debate on this as not having outer seals means if the inners leak you will see oil and know something is wrong. With outer seals you will have no signs of inner leaks unless you routinely check fluid level or get low enough you hear it.

I trust your opinion so what's your thoughts on this?

Leaking front diff seals are almost always caused by the debris that gets in the tubes. I wouldn’t hesitate to use tube seals to keep mud, sand, salty snow, and whatnot out of the tube.

Worrying about seals leaking behind a barrier like this isn’t something I would concern myself with. It won’t ever leak enough to cause issues unless you simply neglect regular maintenance. I’ve never had or heard of any issues. Sounds like people playing the “what if” game. I’d say you mitigate more risk by using the tube seals than not using them.

 

[oceanblue2019]

Leaking front diff seals are almost always caused by the debris that gets in the tubes. I wouldn’t hesitate to use tube seals to keep mud, sand, salty snow, and whatnot out of the tube.

Worrying about seals leaking behind a barrier like this isn’t something I would concern myself with. It won’t ever leak enough to cause issues unless you simply neglect regular maintenance. I’ve never had or heard of any issues. Sounds like people playing the “what if” game. I’d say you mitigate more risk by using the tube seals than not using them.

Thanks, RCV tube seals are on the Christmas list now

 

[roaniecowpony]

Just one quick google search but many similar stories.... If they can't get a simple trackbar right I would doubt something with more precision required.

Two of the most annoying people I've seen on YouTube.

 

[oceanblue2019]

Two of the most annoying people I've seen on YouTube.

Not disagreeing but still an accurate data point.

 

[Headbarcode]

Leaking front diff seals are almost always caused by the debris that gets in the tubes. I wouldn’t hesitate to use tube seals to keep mud, sand, salty snow, and whatnot out of the tube.

Worrying about seals leaking behind a barrier like this isn’t something I would concern myself with. It won’t ever leak enough to cause issues unless you simply neglect regular maintenance. I’ve never had or heard of any issues. Sounds like people playing the “what if” game. I’d say you mitigate more risk by using the tube seals than not using them.

I'm of a similar mindset, so I opted to install the outer seals.

 

[KNN]

#314/322 checking in. This thread was incredibly helpful and hilarious. Couldn’t have done install w/o it. Made a terrible mistake though and pressed in ball joints in the wrong order. Other than that instal went smoothly.

 

[roaniecowpony]

One thing about the Reid knuckles is that you need to grind the cast steering stop to facilitate full factory steering movement/turning radius.

I used my 4" DeWalt angle grinder with a composite abrasive hard disc (radiac wheel to you other old guys). It took about 3/16" of removal to get it to the OEM turn angle.

To measure the OEM turning angle, be sure to measure it with the OEM knuckle installed. I removed the brake caliper, disconnected the tierod from the OEM knuckle, rotated the knuckle against its stop, and used a straight edge (I used angle aluminum) to lay across the brake disc and mark the frame with chalk. This became the reference point for grinding the Reid knuckle. It was quite a lot of difference of turning angle to adjust (by grinding the stop). This picture shows when I was getting closer with the grinding. It started out about 3 or 4 inches away from my reference mark.

 

[Roky]

One thing about the Reid knuckles is that you need to grind the cast steering stop to facilitate full factory steering movement/turning radius.

I used my 4" DeWalt angle grinder with a composite abrasive hard disc (radiac wheel to you other old guys). It took about 3/16" of removal to get it to the OEM turn angle.

To measure the OEM turning angle, be sure to measure it with the OEM knuckle installed. I removed the brake caliper, disconnected the tierod from the OEM knuckle, rotated the knuckle against its stop, and used a straight edge (I used angle aluminum) to lay across the brake disc and mark the frame with chalk. This became the reference point for grinding the Reid knuckle. It was quite a lot of difference of turning angle to adjust (by grinding the stop). This picture shows when I was getting closer with the grinding. It started out about 3 or 4 inches away from my reference mark.

Just when I thought my ocd was the worst ever…….. …… my Reid stops were less than a 1/4” longer so I left them alone, shhhhhh…..

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