Radiator

[00 Trans Ram]

There's always option K (to be considered after options A-J).

When I was racing cars, there was a rumor floating around (no idea if true, probably not) that some guy had gotten rid of his radiator altogether. Instead of having that big frontal area up front that required air to be taken into the engine (creating drag), he plumbed the water into his roll cage. In one side, out the other. Took a while to get it leakproof, but there were no rules against it.

Of course, I highly doubt that story - but it's fun to think about. Imagine how hot the cage would get? And the interior of the car? But, no fans and no radiator.

Sponsored

 

[flyer92]

Even though I have the 3.6L gasser in my JL, I've been monitoring this thread because I swapped in a JT grille last year. Gotta say I haven't noticed much, if any, improvement in coolant or oil temps, but wondering if anyone here has had a similar experience. If nothing else, I guess it's nice to have a spare grille!

 

[Ratbert]

Unfortunately the incentives for aftermarket companies to invest in a potential remedy for these issues diminished significantly when the diesel was dropped.

 

[zouch]

i didn't see it mentioned yet, but it would appear that Mishimoto is now also coming out with an aluminum radiator for these things:
Mishi Rad
add them to the list with Cold Case. (there are other off-brands out there too, but i don't have the same faith in them.) both of them tout better tube technology, but i expect a good deal of the improvement comes from just getting rid of the plastic tanks on the ends of the rads.

i've had great results from replacing the stock rads that come stock in J**ps with an all-aluminum unit, and this will be the first step i take in cooling improvements if/when it becomes a priority.

 

[zouch]

when you are saying "normal range", are you referring to the bar-graph gauge? in my experience, that thing almost never moves after warm-up, even across a range of 60+ºF.

if you're talking about a range on the numeric gauges, could you share some specifics regarding what you consider "normal" ?

After reading my post over again, I realized that the temps I’m talking about are the oil temps. My coolant temps has never left the normal range.

 

[Plongson]

Dang! I was the thread starter and I'd still LOVE to have better cooling. Just got back from 10 days pulling a travel trailer and every grade, I have to really watch the throttle position, start the manual fan and gear down...even still, it bumps up against the de-rate temps.

I'm VERY interested in this radiator. It would sure be nice to have some real world feedback before dropping coin...

Thanks for the link!

 

[BAKNBLK]

Thermostat change would be the first step 195* open if one is available anywhere.
2nd is look at what the cfm is on the fan at 1" static pressure if any specs on it.
Having the stat open sooner will help, fan on high speed on start, seal fan shroud so all the air is being pulled through the radiator.

 

[zouch]

changing a thermostat does nothing to change how much heat a radiator can exchange; all it does is change the minimum temp the system operates at.

Thermostat change would be the first step 195* open if one is available anywhere.
2nd is look at what the cfm is on the fan at 1" static pressure if any specs on it.
Having the stat open sooner will help, fan on high speed on start, seal fan shroud so all the air is being pulled through the radiator.

 

[BAKNBLK]

Ya I known that for 60+ years...I also understand how heat transfer works..I stand by my statement.

 

[zouch]

how would you expect that a different temp thermostat would help keep these things cooler when pulling?

it might help coolant start out at a cooler temp, but that would mean it would just be fully open sooner and then we're back to the limitations of how much heat the cooling system could dump.

Ya I known that for 60+ years...I also understand how heat transfer works..I stand by my statement.

 

[BAKNBLK]

Most times if its cooler going down the road with a cooler stat and you hit a hill it gives you more time before you get to the temp limit, that usually allows you to make it up and over . Not gona argue with ya..don't believe it don't do it.

 

[Ratbert]

Most times if its cooler going down the road with a cooler stat and you hit a hill it gives you more time before you get to the temp limit, that usually allows you to make it up and over . Not gona argue with ya..don't believe it don't do it.

If your solution is so simple do you have any thoughts on why they wouldn't be configured that way from the factory?

 

[ChuckQue]

Wouldn’t having a lower temp T stat result in lower overall temps? These engines are designed to run at a specific operating temp range so I can’t imagine that would be good for it. Plus wouldn’t that accelerate fuel dilution in the oil?

With how finnicky these diesels are already, I don’t think that’s the route I’d be willing to mess with. A better radiator or remote oil cooler would be safer, though so far no one has had luck building the oil cooler solution. Just no where to mount the damn thing.

I just turn the fan on high and drop my speed. Seems to work fine.

 

[BAKNBLK]

If your solution is so simple do you have any thoughts on why they wouldn't be configured that way from the factory?

Emissions

 

[zouch]

not arguing with you.

i believe that in the very limited scenario you defined here you might indeed indicate a slightly lower coolant temp for a little while until you generate enough heat that your lower temp thermostat opens and/or you run out of "hill".
but you haven't done anything to increase your cooling systems total cooling potential, and once that 'stat opens (which a lower temp 'stat will do sooner) everything's going to warm up just as fast if you're climbing something more than a "hill".

and don't forget that to start with, we're dealing with a Compression Ignition engine, where our fuel charge is ignited by the heat in the cylinders created by the compression of the fuel charge in the cylinders.
that's not going to work the same (read: as designed) if you're starting out with cylinders that aren't running up to their intended temperature, and you increase the risk of carbon and other contaminant buildup because things aren't getting up to working temps.
(note that there are even warnings in our Users Manual about needing to avoid extended idling to prevent the risk of running too cool and potentially causing damaging buildup.)

Most times if its cooler going down the road with a cooler stat and you hit a hill it gives you more time before you get to the temp limit, that usually allows you to make it up and over . Not gona argue with ya..don't believe it don't do it.

Sponsored