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chevymitchell

chevymitchell

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redsyphon

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redsyphon

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Thanks @chevymitchell
75w-140 on rear even when no plans to tow?

Appreciate the help. lol, last time I changed diff oil was on my old TJ and it didn't care what I put in there ;)
Looks like the answer is yes for others on the forum. I'll go with full synthetic 75w-90 up front and 75w-140 for the rear :)
 
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chevymitchell

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Thanks @chevymitchell
75w-140 on rear even when no plans to tow?

Appreciate the help. lol, last time I changed diff oil was on my old TJ and it didn't care what I put in there ;)
Towing isn't just putting something on the hitch and pulling it.

You have to do a net GVW gain when modifying your Jeep.

I have a long-arm, 37's, beadlocks, etc... The net weight gain from mods and putting the Jeep in trail trim puts me around 500-750 lbs over a standard GVW. It's essentially like towing a 750 lb trailer all of the time.
 

redsyphon

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Towing isn't just putting something on the hitch and pulling it.

You have to do a net GVW gain when modifying your Jeep.

I have a long-arm, 37's, beadlocks, etc... The net weight gain from mods and putting the Jeep in trail trim puts me around 500-750 lbs over a standard GVW. It's essentially like towing a 750 lb trailer all of the time.
Great point and with my 10gal water system, full rear platform and drawers, rack, tools, camping gear, etc.... I'm going with 140 :)
 

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So the Jeep is back at the dealership again. Apparently after changing out 3 rear axles someone higher up is tired of paying for axle assemblies. They are going to replace the harness, but don't believe that is the answer. I'll find out tomorrow where they want to go from here.
 

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So the Jeep is back at the dealership again. Apparently after changing out 3 rear axles someone higher up is tired of paying for axle assemblies. They are going to replace the harness, but don't believe that is the answer. I'll find out tomorrow where they want to go from here.
So now they’re going to throw a harness that it doesn’t need and then still have to replace your axle when that doesn’t fix it. Brilliant.
 

redsyphon

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So now they’re going to throw a harness that it doesn’t need and then still have to replace your axle when that doesn’t fix it. Brilliant.
My thoughts too...

If you're tired of wasting time and resources on new axles for a sensor issue... why then turn around and waste time and money on something unrelated?

Do they have evidence of the harness sending incorrect voltages?

If there wasn't an issue with the sensors being compromised, then I'd understand looking further up the chain, but when you're driving on a road full of nails... changing tires and then blaming the tire pressure when they keep poping is kinda silly lol!
 

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Might be time for an aftermarket company to create an OE-Fix part to solve this issue. I'll make a suggestion to a company that is always on the look for ideas like this. Can't hurt to ask as I'll be in this boat before long.
 

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Might be time for an aftermarket company to create an OE-Fix part to solve this issue. I'll make a suggestion to a company that is always on the look for ideas like this. Can't hurt to ask as I'll be in this boat before long.
You could pass on to the company, that the Hall sensor on the printed circuit board is likely either one of these components, or another brand component having the same functions.
https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/AH323xQ_AH327xQ.pdf
 

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I fired off that email along with this forum thread. We'll see what if anything comes of it.
 

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I know Jeep recommends changing diff fluid on the Rubicons every 15,000 miles. I do the rear every 15,000, and the front every 30,000 since the gears only spin when I'm off road. I'm guessing they recommend that to get the metal particles out of the oil so it doesn't get into the electronics. I don know I have seen the fluid drained at 10-15,000 miles, and it is nasty. It's only $50 for me to have them change it. Figure it can't hurt.
 

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I know Jeep recommends changing diff fluid on the Rubicons every 15,000 miles. I do the rear every 15,000, and the front every 30,000 since the gears only spin when I'm off road. I'm guessing they recommend that to get the metal particles out of the oil so it doesn't get into the electronics. I don know I have seen the fluid drained at 10-15,000 miles, and it is nasty. It's only $50 for me to have them change it. Figure it can't hurt.
I can tell you, my lower plug, and sensor were pretty damn fuzzy from shavings at 4K. I planned on 15K, but seeing that changed my thoughts. I will prob do 5K and see what inside looks like on each change.

OEM oil seemed in decent shape.
 

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I know Jeep recommends changing diff fluid on the Rubicons every 15,000 miles. I do the rear every 15,000, and the front every 30,000 since the gears only spin when I'm off road. I'm guessing they recommend that to get the metal particles out of the oil so it doesn't get into the electronics. I don know I have seen the fluid drained at 10-15,000 miles, and it is nasty. It's only $50 for me to have them change it. Figure it can't hurt.
I haven't had a single axle make it past 10k yet. So I don't know how much that would delay the issue. And most dealers charge a lot more than 50 bucks for the fluid change. I helped out a local gal a while back because the dealer wanted over 300 for changing the fluid.
 

jellis4148

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I haven't had a single axle make it past 10k yet. So I don't know how much that would delay the issue. And most dealers charge a lot more than 50 bucks for the fluid change. I helped out a local gal a while back because the dealer wanted over 300 for changing the fluid.

That's crazy to change the fluid. Well, if that's just for one, it's crazy. I do work at the dealer. So I only pay $30 an hour labor rate. I think the actual cost was like $65 with fluid. So far I haven't had any issues. I actually bought the taser plugs in case I get caught in the middle of nowhere and need my lockers.
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