Plug and Play amp upgrade to basic system

[TJJL19]

winchreadyAZ, I reread the the article on ported subs, after seeing Varilux pictures, of the front pods which are ported.(soundbar included)
Now I am wondering, if replacing the speakers with a non-ported 6 inch speaker enclouser, is a better upgrade over, just replacing the 4 inch, with an upgraded speaker?

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[Varilux]

Just another article on sealed vs. ported speaker enclosures. Unless you're trying to get a bunch of whomp out of a sub, it seems sealed enclosures are the way to go (especially for mid and upper ranges)...
https://www.eminence.com/sealed-vs-ported-enclosures/

 

[Surfwagon]

Yes they are. I was surprised the factory pods were ported (the factory speaker is a midrange component- I guess they were trying to get as much as they could out of a small speaker). The factory soundbar enclosure is ported as well- probably for the same reason.

The Metra pods are not ported, and I made efforts to seal them up pretty tight. Being a considerably larger coaxial with a tweeter, I figured they would benefit from a tightly sealed enclosure to give more clarity to the sound- and I'm happy with the result.

I was a bit concerned there might be a crossover somewhere in the factory wiring- given there is no tweeter in the factory speaker. However, I can definitely confirm the tweeter in the Focal 6.5 speaker is producing very nice high end. Even more surprisingly those tweeters really improve the front staging of the sound (I almost bought component speakers, because high end is very directional, and the speakers actually point ever so slightly downward). I was able to dial down the treble a bit, and my system no longer sounds bass heavy.

The knee panel swap isn't terribly difficult- there's just a LOT of screws to remove (I will say, however, that I appreciate that Jeep uses the same screw for just about every interior component- makes things much easier). This kind of project is where Crutchfield really shines- their Master Build Sheet for the JL is spot on and tells you where every screw and clip is going to be. [Added note: At least with the Focal speakers, you have to clip off the tabs that extend into the opening of the Metra pods- I think those tabs are for mounting speakers smaller than 6.5". I had a moment of concern when the speakers didn't initially sit flush down into the pods.]

While I was in there, I ripped out my original T-Harness and homemade Main Harness. I should have just waited for the main harness to come off backorder to begin with! It is so much cleaner, AND I must have screwed up one of the sub channels in my homemade harness, because now my sub is obviously seeing both channels (sounds noticeably better). I went ahead and also ordered the sub harness, and this time it really was plug and play. I also moved the KTP-445U under the passenger seat next to my powered sub, and ran the power and ground off my sub wiring.

I now have no factory speakers remaining.
Top Dash - 4" Mopar 77KICK25AB speakers
Soundbar - 6.5" SSV coaxials
Knee Panel - 6.5" Focal coaxials
Subwoofer - 8" Sound Ordinance

Not counting ordering the harnesses twice, I have $867.50 invested and 8 hours or so of labor, and my Jeep sounds awesome. The only additional things I could ever see doing to my system would be if Alpine came out with a DSP module for their KTP-445U, or if there was some way to run video to the radio screen. Oh, and at some point if I ever find a deal on an 8.5" head unit... However, I am basically done with audio at this point!

Very similar situation....I should have waited 4 more days for my main harness to come in stock....so I have a modified T harness working on the KTP. Oh well. When I have the patience and extra $50 sitting around, I’ll order a new T harness and do the same.

I didn’t find any benefit of replacing the knee speakers with 6.5’s...little more highs but the mid bass is severely lacking from the coaxials I went with. My next move is the sound bar, but with the recent addition of my powered sub I’m pretty happy With the set up right now.

 

[winchreadyAZ]

So much about

winchreadyAZ, I reread the the article on ported subs, after seeing Varilux pictures, of the front pods which are ported.(soundbar included)
Now I am wondering, if replacing the speakers with a non-ported 6 inch speaker enclouser, is a better upgrade over, just replacing the 4 inch, with an upgraded speaker?

TJJL19 - my opinion - so much about sound is in the ear of the beholder - so, opinion...
I know why Jeep did a tuned port for the knee pods and sound bar - because that’s the only way they could get enough bass out of those dinky 4” drivers. For me, I tend to prefer the tight (non-boomy) bass that a sealed enclosure provides. But if you want to rattle the windows, then a properly tuned ported enclosure will do the trick. Additionally, by putting 6.5” drivers in sealed enclosures where there once was 4” drivers with ports - probably gives a nicer bass. Then when you add the subwoofer in to complement - you’ve got yourself a nice system.

 

[winchreadyAZ]

Additionally - drivers are about moving air and a 6.5” speaker has over 2.5 times the surface area as compared to a 4”. That sounds like more air moved to me...
Sure, lots of it depends — sensitivity, speaker material, input power, frequency, etc... but if everything were equal, the bigger driver moves more air.

 

[TJJL19]

Additionally - drivers are about moving air and a 6.5” speaker has over 2.5 times the surface area as compared to a 4”. That sounds like more air moved to me...
Sure, lots of it depends — sensitivity, speaker material, input power, frequency, etc... but if everything were equal, the bigger driver moves more air.

I think the answer lies with FCA engineers and how much they put into the sound system.
In the Quadratec video, on the PSS-23WRA , it's stated that Alpine thinks the stock speaker put out a good sound.
Did the changes from the JK to the JL interior force the move from 6in to 4in or was it the sound shift? Maybe a cost cut? Alpine or FCA can answer the questions, we just live with it.

 

[TJJL19]

Kicker recalled my Kicker 46HS10 10, did anyone hear of a recall on the 77KICK25AB?

 

[StaindReality]

Installing amp and sub to stock base radio
Question. On the line out converter. Do I connect the remote switch that it has along with the negative and positive on the converter that it has to the amp. Or just the neg. pos. on converter To amp and run a separate remote line to the cigaret lighter up front for the amp? Does it matter? Wouldn’t the remote switch work if used from converter to amp since when the Jeep is off. No power goes to speakers? I guess I don’t see why I wouldnt use it instead of running a remote switch all way to lighter from amp instead

 

[Varilux]

Installing amp and sub to stock base radio
Question. On the line out converter. Do I connect the remote switch that it has along with the negative and positive on the converter that it has to the amp. Or just the neg. pos. on converter To amp and run a separate remote line to the cigaret lighter up front for the amp? Does it matter? Wouldn’t the remote switch work if used from converter to amp since when the Jeep is off. No power goes to speakers? I guess I don’t see why I wouldnt use it instead of running a remote switch all way to lighter from amp instead

If I understand the question correctly, you're asking "Why don't I just hook the remote switch wire (usually blue) to the amp's power- since the amp only comes on when the Jeep is on?" The problem with this approach is the amp is always seeing power (the power feed to the amp usually runs directly to the battery), and therefore, the remote wire would always see a signal and the converter will always be on. What you could do is tie the remote wire to the remote wire you are using for your amp (which might have been what you were actually asking- if I misunderstood, apologies). Just tie the remote wire to the amp's remote wire and both the amp and converter will only come on when the wire you hooked the amp remote to is powered up.

Either way, you don't have to go all the way back up to the lighter (assuming that is where you have the amp's remote wire hooked up- so just tying in to that wire is the same thing).

 

[StaindReality]

Ok. Thank you. I’ll run the remote wire up to lighter. I don’t think I’ll use the converters remote wire at all. The converter hooks to the amps positive and negative (From what I understand) so if the amp is off by the remote wire to the lighter. Then it should all be good.

 

[StaindReality]

If I’m not using the remote wire from the loc. Do I have to connect it’s pos and neg to amp?

 

[Varilux]

Actually, I didn't think line output converters are usually powered. For example, this one from Kicker just has positive and negative speaker feeds and a ground wire that only needs to be connected if you notice noise in the line. If your LOC does have a power, ground, and remote wire, you'll want to hook the power and ground to the amp and the remote to your lighter.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-dxHWm...dfDfSg_5q7GhT2rkWWLm53wSfLQOlqjRoCnKQQAvD_BwE

 

[StaindReality]

Yeah. Mine has all of those. That’s where I’m confused. I didn’t think they did either. I was wondering if it was just for the remote wire use. If I didn’t use its remote wire and just ran one from the amp itself if i needed to still hook up the pos. Neg. from the loc.

 

[StaindReality]

Here is what I ordered. SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LIAHSM4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[StaindReality]

I don’t think im going to hook up the pos. Neg. and remote wire and bass knob. I think I’ll do the remote wire from amp to lighter. And try the included bass knob by hooking to amp instead of loc. This way I don’t have power going to loc. And no worries of failure and running battery down. I trust my amp more than the loc.

does this make sense? Appreciate any opinions and thanks for the help so far.

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