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Plug and Play amp upgrade to basic system

winchreadyAZ

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Thats gonna work nice. Well done, looks good!
Are you going to port the enclosure? I guess that depends on what kind of bass you want and also the specific subwoofer and amp you are going to use. Here's a good single page website on choices.

Ported vs Sealed Sub
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TJJL19

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winchreadyAZ, that's a good article on Sub's, ported vs sealed. I am happy with the 10 inch kicker that I added under my drivers seat, it vibrates the seat, now if I only can get my toilet seat to vibrate
 

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I just received a couple pair of 77KICK25AB from Bam, and I'm waiting for bass blockers for the front, but installed one pair in the soundbar and immediately the sound is much better than stock.
So, have any of you with the front crackling/distortion problems had good luck with installing bass blockers on the front pair (I got the 600Hz recommended for 3.5" speakers from Crutchfield).?
I also intend (future project) to install a Cerwin Vega UPAS10 powered sub (one I've had sitting around that I won on online). ;)
 

winchreadyAZ

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I installed mine in the top dash without any bass blockers and didn’t have any issues. The sound bar signal and dash signal I believe are the same. I am also running a pair of 8 inch powered subwoofers (one under each front seat). So I keep the loudness button off and flat bass response on the eq, while tweeking the subs with a bass knob. Those kickers handled everything the factory uconnect 7 could dish out (Not a whole lot comparatively).
 

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TJJL19

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I just received a couple pair of 77KICK25AB from Bam, and I'm waiting for bass blockers for the front, but installed one pair in the soundbar and immediately the sound is much better than stock.
So, have any of you with the front crackling/distortion problems had good luck with installing bass blockers on the front pair (I got the 600Hz recommended for 3.5" speakers from Crutchfield).?
I also intend (future project) to install a Cerwin Vega UPAS10 powered sub (one I've had sitting around that I won on online). ;)
I installed the 77kick25ab in the front and sound bar, with the stock 7 radio,then the Alpine 445u amp was added.
I don't know if ir's my ears but I do hear a tin sound on some songs, I had the same problem with the Quadratec tweeters on my JK, which had a built in crossover.
The stereo imagine was good with the stock radio, then got better with the Alpine.
I have no problem with the bass coming from the kickers.
I did put polyfill in the front speakers when I installed them, I don't know if that keeps the bass tight
 

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Alright peoples, I finally got my Alpine PWD-x5 installed, and I gotta say it is really impressive. If you want an all-in-one easy clean solution, look this unit up. It definitely exceeded my expectations, though of course opinions vary, but I highly recommend checking it out...sorry having problems uploading image, I had it installed where Alpine sub usually is behind right passenger seat, fits perfect...
Jeep Wrangler JL Plug and Play amp upgrade to basic system IMG_8228
 

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Mine(the one I want to order) is slightly smaller, in that it’s not bigger at least. Any words of wisdom for mounting under the seat?
I wanted to show you this shot, of why I put in the Mopar Gap hider and went with the Kicker 10 under the drivers seat, instead of the SSV sub.

Jeep Wrangler JL Plug and Play amp upgrade to basic system Army Dogs
 

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So, I went to install the front 77Kick25ABs today and noticed the capacitors on the factory speakers.
They are on the left side of the factory connector. I also noticed that the 77Kick25ABs have the exact same connector and it is just bridged with a wire (soldered), so... I was able unsolder the wire bridging the connection and solder the Bass Blockers onto the Kicks without modification to the factory wiring harness. :like:

Jeep Wrangler JL Plug and Play amp upgrade to basic system thumbnail_IMG_6245
 

TJJL19

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So, I went to install the front 77Kick25ABs today and noticed the capacitors on the factory speakers.
They are on the left side of the factory connector. I also noticed that the 77Kick25ABs have the exact same connector and it is just bridged with a wire (soldered), so... I was able unsolder the wire bridging the connection and solder the Bass Blockers onto the Kicks without modification to the factory wiring harness. :like:

Jeep Wrangler JL Plug and Play amp upgrade to basic system thumbnail_IMG_6245
Do you know what the capacitors are for? I installed mine so quickly(didn't want to listen to my wife say: why are you spending more money) didn't notice it on the speakers or they didn't have it?
 

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Wolfy

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Do you know what the capacitors are for? I installed mine so quickly(didn't want to listen to my wife say: why are you spending more money) didn't notice it on the speakers or they didn't have it?
I'm pretty sure the capacitor is a bass blocker. I couldn't read the value on the factory cap clearly, but it looks like it might be a 2.2uF, which I think would create a pretty high roll off (>8Khz)?
 

winchreadyAZ

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Yep. The capacitor is a passive high pass filter. Aka Bass Blocker. The formula to calculate the crossover frequency is

freq = ___1___
2Ď€RC

freq is in HZ
R - speaker resistance in ohms
C - capacitor (1 ÎĽF = .000001)
Ď€ - 3.14159

here is a much easier HPF calculator:
HPF Calculator
 

TJJL19

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My wife drove my jeep, she informed me that my drivers seat vibrates! YAHOO!
 

TJJL19

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Yes. ESS has the hidden battery regardless of engine. Here's a good video that describes the whole thing. 3:00 minutes into it shows you exactly how to disconnect BOTH batteries.

Jeep JL Batteries
I think I have ADD, I can't figure out what he is saying in the video, he said to remove the 2nd battery negitive and then if you want remove the positive?
So do you still remove the negitive from the main battery?
 

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OK! I have ADD, I don't know how I missed this email!

Hello Thomas,

Our records show that you purchased a Kicker 46HS10 10" powered subwoofer from Crutchfield. We are writing to inform you that Kicker has discovered an issue with that subwoofer. They are committed to correcting the issue and have issued a product recall.

What's the problem?

The issue centers on the woofer cone's glue joint, which was inadequately primed during manufacturing process. This could cause the woofer to separate if the unit is played at extreme volume for a long period of time. This would, of course, cause the subwoofer to stop working.

This issue only applies to subwoofers manufactured within a specific date range. According to our records, your subwoofer is one of them. Please look for your serial number in the list below.

  • 58045050000356, 58045050000352, 58045050000372, 58045050000376, 58045050000377, 58045050000379, 58045050000381, 58045050000383, 58045050000398, 58045050000408, 58045050000410, 58045050000415, 58045050000435, 58045050000490, 58045050000496, 58045050000497, 58045050000498, 58045050000499, 58045050000010, 58045050000035, 58045050000039, 58045050000042, 58045050000046, 58045050000053, 58045050000058, 58045050000061, 58045050000077, 58045050000086, 58045050000092, 58045050000106, 58045050000134, 58045050000168, 58045050000191, 58045050000243, 58045050000286, 58045050000289, 58045050000292, 58045050000293, 58045050000297, 58045050000299, 58045050000300, 58045050000302, 58045050000303, 58045050000308, 58045050000311, DUP61958045050, DUP60058045050, 58045050000316, 58045050000322, 58045050000324, DUP60158045050, DUP60258045050, 58045050000339, 58045050000341, 58045050000342, 58045050000357
Well My seat vibrates no more, I guess I'm going to look at the SSV now! Dogs, move over!
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