OEM to LED conversion success

[pichenet]

Did what mod? Halogen to LED in the stock housings? I guess you didn't count me in, because as I clearly explained I've never been flashed by oncoming traffic because I didn't use cheap eBay bulbs.

WXman - did you upgrade fogs, rears, or switch lights?

Thanks,

Dennis

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[WXman]

WXman - did you upgrade fogs, rears, or switch lights?

Thanks,

Dennis

I upgraded the halogen headlight bulbs to LED headlight bulbs. I didn't touch any other lights on the Jeep yet.

 

[Dsharp215]

Did what mod? Halogen to LED in the stock housings? I guess you didn't count me in, because as I clearly explained I've never been flashed by oncoming traffic because I didn't use cheap eBay bulbs.

Did you need the resistors for any flicker issues? I assume the answer is no, since it was never mentioned.
Thanks

 

[emilboya]

Did you need the resistors for any flicker issues? I assume the answer is no, since it was never mentioned.
Thanks

The ones by DiodeDynamics have built in resistors so it is plug and play!

 

[WXman]

Did you need the resistors for any flicker issues? I assume the answer is no, since it was never mentioned.
Thanks

Nope, the CrystaLux bulbs don't flicker at all. The output is intense and on high beam it lights up the entire roadway with a flood of bright white light. On low beam the sharp upper cutoff becomes apparent. I really like them and they are simple to install.

There are only two drawbacks, and this will be true of aftermarket and factory LEDs both: 1) there isn't much heat generated which means snow won't melt off the lens in winter and 2) the light transmitted by LEDs doesn't cut through fog very well compared to halogen. The wavelength of light put out by halogen bulbs just does better in foul weather.

Otherwise, these are great.

 

[WXman]

I have discovered one issue with the LEDs.

In order to install them, you need to leave the dust cap off the back of the headlights. You are not supposed to tuck the ballast inside the headlight housing because that is the part that generates the most heat. So you need to leave it hanging outside the headlight housing. Well, that requires leaving the dust cap off. And, that has lead to me having spider webs (and a live spider) inside my headlight housing.

So, I will need to figure out some way to re-use the factory dust caps while making a provision for the LED wiring to run through them.

Just to update, I saw a video where a Jeep aftermarket parts vendor installed these and tucked the wiring and balast/heat sink inside the housing and then reinstalled the dust cap. They said they haven't had any issues. So, I installed mine like that and so far it's working well. So, you CAN reuse the dust cap just like with the factory halogen bulbs. I strongly recommend that you do so. I got spiders and moisture inside mine when I was running with the dust caps off and it's impossible to clean out.

 

[cabnfvr]

I would be interested to see the beam pattern of the LED replacements with the 270° specification mentioned in the ad. Here's a pic of the OEM LED cut off at 30-40'

Everyone should post a similar pic when showing their new lights instead of looking at them. I replaced the H13s with LEDs and then removed then and sent them back the next day. No cutoff and yes, they were blinding everyone else. One vendor on the site even shows a pic with a perfectly round light, zero cutoff. Those should not be legal.

 

[Man-of-methods]

There are only two drawbacks, and this will be true of aftermarket and factory LEDs both: 1) there isn't much heat generated which means snow won't melt off the lens in winter and 2) the light transmitted by LEDs doesn't cut through fog very well compared to halogen. The wavelength of light put out by halogen bulbs just does better in foul weather.

No.1 is not true. The OEM LEDs do generate heat. Enough to melt snow. Have you put your hand in front of an OEM LED headlight? You'd know

 

[Man-of-methods]

The ones by DiodeDynamics have built in resistors so it is plug and play!

I don't think @Diode Dynamics has made headlights for the halogen stocks yet. I'm on the mailing list to be notified as soon as they do. Haven't gotten it yet. @Diode Dynamics? Anything yet?

 

[Dsharp215]

Nope, the CrystaLux bulbs don't flicker at all. The output is intense and on high beam it lights up the entire roadway with a flood of bright white light. On low beam the sharp upper cutoff becomes apparent. I really like them and they are simple to install.

There are only two drawbacks, and this will be true of aftermarket and factory LEDs both: 1) there isn't much heat generated which means snow won't melt off the lens in winter and 2) the light transmitted by LEDs doesn't cut through fog very well compared to halogen. The wavelength of light put out by halogen bulbs just does better in foul weather.

Otherwise, these are great.

Sounds great, not much snow in SE Texas (fingers crossed) and fog is just an occasional issue. So it's all good!....Thanks!

 

[Chipman]

All items below sourced from Amazon & Ebay. No fast blink adapters needed (Shocked) and beyond expectations when installed. Great night time coverage and all same color match. Light bar connected to AUX 3 button - 15 amp lead.

All aftermarket LED upgrades

DRL/Turn signal upgrade
(4) 2 of EA - BEAMTECH 7443 LED Bulb, CSP Chips 6500K 800 Lumens W21/5W 7515 T20 Dual Xenon White

Headlight upgrade
Auxbeam LED Headlight Bulbs NF-S1 Series LED Headlights H13 9008 H13A P264T PJ264T PHILIPS CSP LED Headlight Conversion Kit 50W 8000lm 6500K Hi-Lo Beam

Fog Light upgrade
Auxbeam H16 H16 (JP) LED Light Bulb 5202 5201 H16 PSX24W 9009 2504 LED Bulbs

LED Light bar (Ebay)
(1) 12inch 208W LED Work single row light bar

The beamtech did not work for me, they seem to have been to thick and would not push in, I went down to the auto part store and got some other 7443 LED bulbs and they fit just fine. The auxbeams worked after I sliced off the single raised guide but were a tight fit.

 

[RubiRob]

There's a reason why places like theretrofitsource.com exist, for people who want to truly improve their lighting and not just get the 6k blue light out of their housing.

For example:

This is a s2000 projector retrofit into a housing (any housing doesn't matter) running HIDs which still emit more power than even LEDs. There's no question what's better.

And this is an hid bulb in a reflective housing

 

[wranglerguyman]

There's a reason why places like theretrofitsource.com exist, for people who want to truly improve their lighting and not just get the 6k blue light out of their housing.

For example:

This is a s2000 projector retrofit into a housing (any housing doesn't matter) running HIDs which still emit more power than even LEDs. There's no question what's better.

And this is an hid bulb in a reflective housing

I was just about to post something like this in response to @WXman saying that quality bulbs have a sharper cutoff. Judging by the picture he posted, that doesn't look like a sharp cutoff to me. There seems to be a good amount of glare right where the cutoff should be. Now I do agree that quality bulbs do have a better cutoff vs cheaper ones but still, doesn't compare to what projectors do.

 

[Firstwrangler]

I don't think @Diode Dynamics has made headlights for the halogen stocks yet. I'm on the mailing list to be notified as soon as they do. Haven't gotten it yet. @Diode Dynamics? Anything yet?

They haven't yet. I was on the phone with them today.

 

[JPGirl]

This post has been very helpful - thank to the OP.
I already replaced my headlights with LED's and have had zero flashes from on coming traffic. Would like to add some LED tail lights and turn signals without having to put in those resistors, so hopefully the suggestions here will work for me as well.

If anyone here has replaced their turn signals with the LED switchback kind that are only amber when blinking - I have read somewhere that there are amber-white-amber-white OR amber-off-amber-off variations - anyone have experience with these and which one you like better?

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