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Guv

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Would the coil boot from the pre chamber plug even fit over the main chamber porcelain? 1.5mm difference.
The way the coils bolt down is also probably different from side to side. It’s almost like you would purposely try to swap plug locations.
Companies have to put “not for human consumption” on all sorts of things that 40-50 years ago would have been considered a joke or an insult. Just more CYA to avoid being sued.
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All of these specs mean nothing if the plugs can be swapped by a “Primitive Pete” mechanic.
Then Pete has no business going under the hood in the first place.
 

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Then Pete has no business going under the hood in the first place.
Agreed 100% , but they will still do it.
 

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Agreed 100% , but they will still do it.
Pete’s problem then.
So let’s say, you’re pulling the plugs because you have a problem with the engine. Most mechanics would note, mark or something to identify the cylinders the plugs came out of.
This way maybe a leak down test would confirm the appearance of the plugs from the cylinder in question.
Kind of a basic mechanical way of doing things.
Old Pete might surprise some of us by following some simple practices like this 🤔
 

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Pete’s problem then.
So let’s say, you’re pulling the plugs because you have a problem with the engine. Most mechanics would note, mark or something to identify the cylinders the plugs came out of.
This way maybe a leak down test would confirm the appearance of the plugs from the cylinder in question.
Kind of a basic mechanical way of doing things.
Old Pete might surprise some of us by following some simple practices like this 🤔
Most mechanics would, but a lot don’t. Our local Mercedes mechanics were so bad that I sold our GL. It took them three tries to properly install a simple seal for the cam sensor. I finally got pissed and did it myself. Once…
 

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Any thoughts on why they'd warn about "serious engine damage" if that was the case?
Cross-threading could be pretty significant in this case, would hate to have to replace the cylinder head because of that.
 

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So I tried to find out more information on the plugs from a MOPAR parts website, no luck.
I do know for a fact that 12mm plugs are typically found in the motorcycle world.
I don't ever remember an automotive application even a twin plug setup that were smaller than 14mm.
Maybe the concern is the J strap on the bigger plug scoring the initial threads on the pre chamber 12mm hole? Could possibly become a nightmare.
Sorry if I insulted you Bert.
 

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Cross-threading could be pretty significant in this case, would hate to have to replace the cylinder head because of that.
Sure, but not "serious engine damage" as discussed in the video / on that page, right? Assuming, of course, it didn't require replacing the head.

Benny @AllMoparParts.com, do you have part numbers / details on these spark plugs?
 

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Would the coil boot from the pre chamber plug even fit over the main chamber porcelain? 1.5mm difference.
The way the coils bolt down is also probably different from side to side. It’s almost like you would purposely try to swap plug locations.
Companies have to put “not for human consumption” on all sorts of things that 40-50 years ago would have been considered a joke or an insult. Just more CYA to avoid being sued.
The boot might be loose, but it looks like the terminal is roughly the same size for both of them. Here's a scenario. Mechanic gets the job to change plugs. Recalls that it takes 8 to do. Looks at his notes from the last time and only sees the one part number. Orders all 8 small ones. They thread right in, the coils snap on the terminals. No harm no foul, right? If they weren't supposed to go there they wouldn't thread in so easily and be able to be used he probably thinks to himself.
 

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I bet having that head replaced is pretty expensive.
We got a 2.0 before they were released to the public in 2017. I had to wait for months just to get the all the special tools needed for holding the cams in place and tension the chain to set the cam timing.
 

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The boot might be loose, but it looks like the terminal is roughly the same size for both of them. Here's a scenario. Mechanic gets the job to change plugs. Recalls that it takes 8 to do. Looks at his notes from the last time and only sees the one part number. Orders all 8 small ones. They thread right in, the coils snap on the terminals. No harm no foul, right? If they weren't supposed to go there they wouldn't thread in so easily and be able to be used he probably thinks to himself.
Hopefully the parts guy would see that it takes 2 different plugs.
It’s pretty hard to envision every problem that someone might have working on a piece of equipment.
 

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Hopefully the parts guy would see that it takes 2 different plugs.
It’s pretty hard to envision every problem that someone might have working on a piece of equipment.
You've been in a shop if your avatar is anything to go by. The reality is like this, the tech orders it, and the guy at parts fills the order. They don't delve into why the tech ordered the parts, or ensure that they are the right ones, they have too many things going on. Paperwork says put 4 ea PN# 35V-4532 in bin DC8, stock location EH15, QOH 14
It's not the parts guy's responsibility.
 

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Not a repair shop but 40 years in an engine research lab. I did all of that work you see in the picture.
My method over the years was to call the dealer myself (usually had a favorite contact) and ask for a fax, email with the parts to be ordered.
There are some awesome parts guys and some not so much.
When the new GM 2.0 came out, the one that was supposed to replace the Ecotech, I had asked the parts guy at the local Chevy dealer for the belt tensioner.
I got a friggen seat belt tensioner. It was the worst, the fuel injector rail and injectors were also dripping gas because they took them off of a completed car!
Anyway, the thing is, from my experience is they would look at the cylinder head breakdown and all the associated components.
A decent parts guy, or gal should be able to see two different spark plugs for the same head.
No guarantees though.
Edit:
That Ecotech was one bad MoFo! The replacement for it was no where close to the original.
 
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jeepingib

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Not a repair shop but 40 years in an engine research lab. I did all of that work you see in the picture.
My method over the years was to call the dealer myself (usually had a favorite contact) and ask for a fax, email with the parts to be ordered.
There are some awesome parts guys and some not so much.
When the new GM 2.0 came out, the one that was supposed to replace the Ecotech, I had asked the parts guy at the local Chevy dealer for the belt tensioner.
I got a friggen seat belt tensioner. It was the worst, the fuel injector rail and injectors were also dripping gas because they took them off of a completed car!
Anyway, the thing is, from my experience is they would look at the cylinder head breakdown and all the associated components.
A decent parts guy, or gal should be able to see two different spark plugs for the same head.
No guarantees though.
The difference here is that you are talking to a parts counter guy, and asking him to look up parts. In a lot of dealerships it doesn't happen that way anymore for their in house repairs. The tech orders the parts, and the parts people that work behind the counter get a request ticket. That ticket might not even say what vehicle it's for, just a work order number or similar. They use the info to pull the parts and put them in the bin. Tech pulls parts from the bin.

The expectation is that the tech is the one working on the equipment, so they should know what they are doing better than some parts guy.
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