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Need help with death wobble

Sportacus

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The dreaded DW has finally come to visit me!

ive had Dynatrac 2” lift on 37s for a couple years with no issues. Had Mopar lower control arms and a Metal Cloak front track bar.

A few months ago i swapped to some 392 axles out of a 2025 rubicon with only 5k miles.

I then installed Metal Cloak front geometry brackets. It drove great, though i did notice a slight steering wheel shimmy occasionally.

i installed an adams driveshaft in front and rear, no difference.

i then installed metal cloak 3.5” springs…..

Now i have death wobble. Like scary violent steering wheel and front of jeep shaking from left to right. I stick my head out the window and i can see the driver wheel wobbling like crazy.

i tried adjusting the control arm on the geo brackets, that didnt help.

we thought it was maybe the drag link was bad so i installed a Metal Cloak drag link. That didnt help.

i noticd the drag link was coming into contact with my steering stablizer that was mounted with the track bar bolt.

Today i installed the rockjock steering stabilizer relocation bracket that moves it above the trackbar bolt. I also swapped out the trackbar bolts to 9/16” and torqued everything to spec.

took it for a test drive, same issue.

I put an angle finder on the front of the axle and the needle is almost at the 90 degree mark. Looks like 1 degree off. I know you subtract from 6 but im not sure if its going the right way or not lol.

i plan to get metal cloak adjustable control arms during the memorial day sale. I have their DB3 kit with adjustable control arms in the rear already.

heres a pic of the angle finder on the front of the front axle and a video showing movement of the drag link and tie rod (slight). Both are torqued and the movement is in the ball joint ends of the parts. The drag link is brand new so im assuming thats normal…..




Jeep Wrangler JL Need help with death wobble IMG_9240
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Sportacus

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Per chat gpt, my caster angle appears to be between 5-6% of positive caster which it says is a good spot.
 

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So you installed taller 3.5” springs and then it started. Guessing you need longer control arms or other components are warn out.
 

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Check the balance on the tires, and the toe.. there are some great videos on YouTube with all the things to check. And yeah the caster needs to be 6 degrees
 

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Is your floor level?
 

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Sportacus

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Yes the floor is level.
Ive checked the toe as well and its good.

my Patagonias are well worn and chat gpt seems to think that may be the issue. I have brand new tires waiting to go on. I have some 33s that have decent tread i can swap to to see if that makes a difference.

the caster seems good and the MC geo brackets are designed to work with stock control arms.
 

roaniecowpony

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Something has some play in it. Do a static steering test. Get someone in the driver's seat to work the steering wheel back and forth from about 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock, with the engine running, while you put your hand on each joint. Be careful. Make sure the person in the seat only does what you tell them and when. The steering can crush your extremities. A little play is all it takes. I found my 13000 mile Metalcloak draglink end was loose. Trackbar should not move either. Look at the steering box and see if it's moving off of the frame.

is it the aluminum steering box?
 
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Sportacus

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Something has some play in it. Do a static steering test. Get someone in the driver's seat to work the steering wheel back and forth from about 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock, with the engine running, while you put your hand on each joint. Be careful. Make sure the person in the seat only does what you tell them and when. The steering can crush your extremities. A little play is all it takes. I found my 13000 mile Metalcloak draglink end was loose. Trackbar should not move either. Look at the steering box and see if it's moving off of the frame.

is it the aluminum steering box?
yes its the aluminum steering box
 

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Torq down that track bar and check ball joints play
 

roaniecowpony

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yes its the aluminum steering box
Well, still check all the joints. But, you should get rid of that steering box. Are you going to 37s? Sorry, I forgot you had 37s already.
 

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Sportacus

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Torq down that track bar and check ball joints play
the teack bar is torqued. I just replaced the bolts tonight with 9/16s bolts and retorques them.

i have the mc sector shaft brace but havent installed it yet since it requires rivnuts.

think the aluminum steering box can have that much play?

Would the 3.5” springs alone exacerbate a wobble?

i can check for balljoint play tomorrow evening after work. I hope thats not it. I already have a bunch of parts to buy soon. Not to mention the enormous amount ive spent the past six months
 

roaniecowpony

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the teack bar is torqued. I just replaced the bolts tonight with 9/16s bolts and retorques them.

i have the mc sector shaft brace but havent installed it yet since it requires rivnuts.

think the aluminum steering box can have that much play?

Would the 3.5” springs alone exacerbate a wobble?

i can check for balljoint play tomorrow evening after work. I hope thats not it. I already have a bunch of parts to buy soon. Not to mention the enormous amount ive spent the past six months
If those are the OE balljoints, They need to go.
 
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Sportacus

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If those are the OE balljoints, They need to go.
i had oe balljoints on my D30 axle for six years and didnt have any issues. Almost 40k miles on them. I would think these would last a while before needing replacement. Unless the 3.5” lift puts excess strain on them, compared to 2.5” lift.
 

roaniecowpony

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i had oe balljoints on my D30 axle for six years and didnt have any issues. Almost 40k miles on them. I would think these would last a while before needing replacement. Unless the 3.5” lift puts excess strain on them, compared to 2.5” lift.
Do the steering test. If you feel any play in them, they should be changed. It's not always one thing that causes a shimmy. It can be a combination.
 
 







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