fonzie
Well-Known Member
Tazer works. I did the install myself hooked to pins 5 & 7 and it has worked ever since (2+ years now). I did have to toggle the halo option on/off a couple times with Tazer before it finally turned on...
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MOPAR LED FACTORY UPGRADE KIT
- Thread starter l.a.j.o.i.e
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Brendon
Well-Known Member
Was your JL a 2021? I was told the problem with flashing started with the 2021 model year - like mine. I was also told a Tazer would not resolve the issue but I don't know becasue I never tried.
hoag4147
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Can you explain pin 5&7 a little more? Did you run your own wire for Halos to a fuse splitter? Thanks
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hoag4147
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Oh gotcha, the OEM harness. Thanks
Parker1
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Hello everyone.
Have a JL 2018 SPORT S.
Looking to install MOPAR LEDs:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar+Access...fa9T6v0CqSKQ9BnezWS7_ZU9wIMZKyvYaAmVVEALw_wcB
After reading majority of this thread I think I am opting to just get them dealer installed.
For those who have done this, what did they charge you?
Is it better to purchase the part and bring it?
Have a JL 2018 SPORT S.
Looking to install MOPAR LEDs:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar+Access...fa9T6v0CqSKQ9BnezWS7_ZU9wIMZKyvYaAmVVEALw_wcB
After reading majority of this thread I think I am opting to just get them dealer installed.
For those who have done this, what did they charge you?
Is it better to purchase the part and bring it?
StrainedSky
Member
Here, save a little bit
Jeep Wrangler JL and Gladiator LED Headlight Kit Set of Two OEM 82215136AE Mopar | BAM Wholesale Parts, Id imagine they would charge you for an hour labor as these only take about 10 minutes to install and flash.
Parker1
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Thanks! What is the difference between the two parts? One ends in E the other in D.Here, save a little bit
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JL_SargeGreen
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I'm guessing this worked on the JL as well? When I look at the Jscan app on the app store, it only shows JK as an option.
King Mopar
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I am upgrading my daughters 2020 from OEM Halogen to OEM LED headlamps. Did you just install and then use the tazer and that was it? I got them in today and they seemed good until I went to flash the brights. Now things aren't working properly.
Do I just need to order a tazer and turn on/off the Halo settings?
fonzie
Well-Known Member
This is way more than a 10 min job since the halo wire has to be run and wired into the bcm which can be a pita! I would expect 2-3 hr charge...Here, save a little bit
BMB
Well-Known Member
FOR THOSE THAT DO NOT HAVE THE 4TH HALO WIRE PRE INSTALLED:
I have managed to get my Mopar Halos working properly and behaving like stock Halo DRLs using my own DIY wiring harness. Let me start by saying this mod is not for the timid. It involves unplugging some critical connectors located at the BCM, which is not all that hard, but just a bit nerve racking as there is always the chance to damage a wire or bend a pin in the BCM. You'll need two different types of pins. For the headlight side, you'll need MOLEX MX150 females (sourced from eBay). For the BCM side, you'll need Kostal MLK 1.2 ELA SM SN 22-20AWG (sourced from Mouser.com). I originally ordered different terminals from eBay labeled as MLK 1.2, apparently not all MLK 1.2 terminals are the same, and they did not fit the BCM connector on my first attempt. Use two lengths of 22AWG automotive wire, and follow the route in the MOPAR kit instructions. I found some wire harness tape on Amazon, that directly matches OEM wire harness tap, and wrapped my two lengths of wire before install. Once the two wires join each other, go ahead and wrap them together with this tape, so you're only securing and fishing one harness. Getting through the firewall grommet was a challenge, but not impossible. I used a 5 gallon bucket handle, sharped with an angle grinder. I pushed it in (well below the existing wires in the grommet) to create a new hole. Remove your passenger fender to get access in the engine bay side. Once you have the bucket handle half way through, create tear drop shape on the engine bay side and pull a good bit of your wire harness through it. Once you pull the handle far enough to reach the wire on the inside of the cab, pull the rest of your wire harness in. I found it easiest to crimp the BCM terminals once the wire was already fished into the cab. To get to the BCM, you will need to remove your passenger seat and trim. The only way I was able to reach the top left connector on the BCM was to remove all other connectors first, and also take off the mounting bolts to the BCM, so that I could pull it down far enough to reach. When you are inserting your BCM terminals, I found it very helpful to have a angled pick, to help push the terminals down and fully seat them in the connector. Once you have all that done and put back together, use your tazer JL mini to program. There's lots of discussion in this thread of difficulty with this, but it worked for me the first attempt by turning LED Heads OFF first, and then HALOs ON, then LED Heads On. This is truly as close to OEM as we can get, with the harness not being readily available from MOPAR. This install is the only way to truly get the Halos to behave properly, as they are lit dimly during day, and bright at night. They flash with unlock button and are not affected by turn signals.
BCM Terminals:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOSTAL/32140734113000?qs=W0yvOO0ixfG7NlxSITzNtA==&countryCode=US¤cyCode=USD
Headlight Terminals:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265253653623
Crimping Tool:
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Harness-Crimping-Computer-Automotive/dp/B01M1YK5FM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1Q7WAQRT9RKL7&keywords=molex+crimp+tool+iwiss&qid=1665415984&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjQ4IiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ==&sprefix=molex+crimp+tool+iwiss,aps,54&sr=8-3
Wire Harness Tape:
https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Harness-4-Inch-50-Foot-5-Pack/dp/B0821HLWCC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3HDWZJKHIL13Y&keywords=Wire+harness+tape&qid=1665416010&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjM2IiwicXNhIjoiNC4xNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMDQifQ==&sprefix=wire+harness+tape,aps,73&sr=8-3
I have managed to get my Mopar Halos working properly and behaving like stock Halo DRLs using my own DIY wiring harness. Let me start by saying this mod is not for the timid. It involves unplugging some critical connectors located at the BCM, which is not all that hard, but just a bit nerve racking as there is always the chance to damage a wire or bend a pin in the BCM. You'll need two different types of pins. For the headlight side, you'll need MOLEX MX150 females (sourced from eBay). For the BCM side, you'll need Kostal MLK 1.2 ELA SM SN 22-20AWG (sourced from Mouser.com). I originally ordered different terminals from eBay labeled as MLK 1.2, apparently not all MLK 1.2 terminals are the same, and they did not fit the BCM connector on my first attempt. Use two lengths of 22AWG automotive wire, and follow the route in the MOPAR kit instructions. I found some wire harness tape on Amazon, that directly matches OEM wire harness tap, and wrapped my two lengths of wire before install. Once the two wires join each other, go ahead and wrap them together with this tape, so you're only securing and fishing one harness. Getting through the firewall grommet was a challenge, but not impossible. I used a 5 gallon bucket handle, sharped with an angle grinder. I pushed it in (well below the existing wires in the grommet) to create a new hole. Remove your passenger fender to get access in the engine bay side. Once you have the bucket handle half way through, create tear drop shape on the engine bay side and pull a good bit of your wire harness through it. Once you pull the handle far enough to reach the wire on the inside of the cab, pull the rest of your wire harness in. I found it easiest to crimp the BCM terminals once the wire was already fished into the cab. To get to the BCM, you will need to remove your passenger seat and trim. The only way I was able to reach the top left connector on the BCM was to remove all other connectors first, and also take off the mounting bolts to the BCM, so that I could pull it down far enough to reach. When you are inserting your BCM terminals, I found it very helpful to have a angled pick, to help push the terminals down and fully seat them in the connector. Once you have all that done and put back together, use your tazer JL mini to program. There's lots of discussion in this thread of difficulty with this, but it worked for me the first attempt by turning LED Heads OFF first, and then HALOs ON, then LED Heads On. This is truly as close to OEM as we can get, with the harness not being readily available from MOPAR. This install is the only way to truly get the Halos to behave properly, as they are lit dimly during day, and bright at night. They flash with unlock button and are not affected by turn signals.
BCM Terminals:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOSTAL/32140734113000?qs=W0yvOO0ixfG7NlxSITzNtA==&countryCode=US¤cyCode=USD
Headlight Terminals:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265253653623
Crimping Tool:
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Harness-Crimping-Computer-Automotive/dp/B01M1YK5FM/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1Q7WAQRT9RKL7&keywords=molex+crimp+tool+iwiss&qid=1665415984&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIxLjQ4IiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ==&sprefix=molex+crimp+tool+iwiss,aps,54&sr=8-3
Wire Harness Tape:
https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Harness-4-Inch-50-Foot-5-Pack/dp/B0821HLWCC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3HDWZJKHIL13Y&keywords=Wire+harness+tape&qid=1665416010&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjM2IiwicXNhIjoiNC4xNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMDQifQ==&sprefix=wire+harness+tape,aps,73&sr=8-3
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