Metalcloak drag link

[Mx5red]

last question for you, does this look correct in the steering stabilizer or should the bushing be “pressed” in a little more. This was my next test is to take this off because I’m only touching at full lock by 1/8th of an inch. If the bushing were able to be pressed in more I’d clear it no problem.

what track bar/SS bolt is that? you said that's from Fox?
I bet the MC relocation bracket will fix all this. it moves the SS further from the passenger wheel, so probably give you plenty of clearance from the drag link.

EDIT: My bad, the metalcloak bracket moves it closer passenger (though upward so maybe it’d clear. Have to assume they engineer their parts to work together).

Now if only someone made a THREAD about different stabilizer brackets

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[Jeepless]

what track bar/SS bolt is that? you said that's from Fox?
I bet the MC relocation bracket will fix all this. it moves the SS further from the passenger wheel, so probably give you plenty of clearance from the drag link.

that’s the one that comes with the fox JK ats SS. I read a lot of post about the metalcloak relocation putting the SS at an undesired angle so installed this. I do have that part at my other house that I will try to see the angle and if it fixes it all, I’ll return the synergy bolt I just ordered. The synergy bolt also is about 1/2” shorter the fox, which would also solve this problem

 

[Roky]

that’s the one that comes with the fox JK ats SS. I read a lot of post about the metalcloak relocation putting the SS at an undesired angle so installed this. I do have that part at my other house that I will try to see the angle and if it fixes it all, I’ll return the synergy bolt I just ordered. The synergy bolt also is about 1/2” shorter the fox, which would also solve this problem

I found this pic on the web, give you some idea…..This may work fine, but I prefer the stabilizer as parallel as possible just for my own piece of mind……

 

[Jeepless]

I found this pic on the web, give you some idea…..This may work fine, but I prefer the stabilizer as parallel as possible just for my own piece of mind……

I agree. I may try to find a thinner nylock (trying to find size now) and just chop the bolt tbh. I can’t find the exact size. Otherwise the synergy will be here by Friday and I’ll just run it as is for now. I have 4.5” springs to install as well before official alignment so i have little time.

 

[word302]

I agree. I may try to find a thinner nylock (trying to find size now) and just chop the bolt tbh. I can’t find the exact size. Otherwise the synergy will be here by Friday and I’ll just run it as is for now. I have 4.5” springs to install as well before official alignment so i have little time.

Food for thought: with 4.5" springs you are in the neighborhood where I would start to think about flipping the drag link. While it does involve more work it would solve all of your clearance issues.

 

[JLfromCA]

sorry, what do you mean?

Flip the drank link over and it will correct the angle at the knuckle end.

 

[Hoppy Toad]

I have a question regarding the metal cloak drag link jnstall. I’ve been fighting this thing for some time and removed it once to thread the ends all the way in (second time per metalcloak phone call) and only adjust the center section.

I was hitting the track at steering stabilizer relocation bolt on full lock. I have adjusted and adjusted and the only way to not hit it is to angle the drag link slightly upwards and I’m now clearing by 1/8th’ish of an inch on full lock. However with wheels straight, does this look like too much of an angle in the end connections? Any problem with running the drag link slightly shifted upwards like it is?

You need to change the bolt on the steering stabilizer to a button head and reverse if you can. I had the same issue. The standard bolt wasn't rubbing that much, but I didn't like it, so I swapped it out and for me, at least, that took care of the issue.

 

[Jeepless]

Food for thought: with 4.5" springs you are in the neighborhood where I would start to think about flipping the drag link. While it does involve more work it would solve all of your clearance issues.

I read a lot about that and seems with the diameter of tie rod and flip kit I would be losing most the gained up travel. I read about both @Headbarcode and MC’s shop vehicle running the 4.5’s without a flip kit. I don’t plan to go any higher then this and may do the drop brackets to correct geometry but again most say they haven’t needed that either.

 

[word302]

I read a lot about that and seems with the diameter of tie rod and flip kit I would be losing most the gained up travel. I read about both @Headbarcode and MC’s shop vehicle running the 4.5’s without a flip kit. I don’t plan to go any higher then this and may do the drop brackets to correct geometry but again most say they haven’t needed that either.

Yeah it really depends on which shocks you’re running. Might lose 1”+/-.

 

[CloakedWillys]

Looking at the pic of your drag link it is rotated up at the bend farther that it is should be. The bend should come forward to clear the stabilizer. If you loosen the jam nut you should be able to roll it down a bit.

 

[Jeepless]

Looking at the pic of your drag link it is rotated up at the bend farther that it is should be. The bend should come forward to clear the stabilizer. If you loosen the jam nut you should be able to roll it down a bit.

I originally had it that way but the drag link just just barely hits the SS bolt. I think the fox bolt is too long. Waiting on synergy bolt that is shorter and then I’ll angle out downward again. If that makes sense!

 

[Jeepless]

The only other option I can see working would be to thread the knuckle ends in all the way and then get the length through extending the center portion (like recommended by Will from MC) but then bring out passenger side knuckle end outwards, to place the bolt further into the “bend” of the drag link during full lock. If that makes sense.

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