Drag link flipped?

[JINO]

I ordered a metalcloak 3.5 mid arm game changer.

A few said to reverse/flip the drag bar.

What does that mean? They never responded or explained what that meant as I am not sure what it means.

I'm having a shop install it. Do I notify them or will they do it on their own?

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[DOOKEY]

I ordered a metalcloak 3.5 mid arm game changer.

A few said to reverse/flip the drag bar.

What does that mean? They never responded or explained what that meant as I am not sure what it means.

I'm having a shop install it. Do I notify them or will they do it on their own?

Possible for you to tell them to shut up?

 

[word302]

I ordered a metalcloak 3.5 mid arm game changer.

A few said to reverse/flip the drag bar.

What does that mean? They never responded or explained what that meant as I am not sure what it means.

I'm having a shop install it. Do I notify them or will they do it on their own?

4.5” is really where you should start thinking about a drag link flip. You’ll want it in the factory location for a 3.5” lift.

 

[Some Random Guy]

A drag link flip switches the knuckle end of the drag link to the top of the knuckle instead of the factory bottom mount. This can make the drag link more parallel to the force exerted when steering, which reduces steering effort. However, it requires the track bar to be relocated upwards about 3 inches on the axle side and also reduces the maximum uptravel because the drag link will hit the frame.
4.5” is the recommended minimum lift, but kits designed for it can do it at less (Maximus-3 works at 3.5” of lift with 3” of bumpstop).

 

[JINO]

A drag link flip switches the knuckle end of the drag link to the top of the knuckle instead of the factory bottom mount. This can make the drag link more parallel to the force exerted when steering, which reduces steering effort. However, it requires the track bar to be relocated upwards about 3 inches on the axle side and also reduces the maximum uptravel because the drag link will hit the frame.
4.5” is the recommended minimum lift, but kits designed for it can do it at less (Maximus-3 works at 3.5” of lift with 3” of bumpstop).

So I don't need to for 3.5"

 

[missionale]

Install the kit exactly like the MFR instructs - "flipping" a drag bar requires a kit - and you shouldn't need to do anything extra if your new Suspension is installed correctly - good luck

 

[Roky]

I ordered a metalcloak 3.5 mid arm game changer.

A few said to reverse/flip the drag bar.

What does that mean? They never responded or explained what that meant as I am not sure what it means.

I'm having a shop install it. Do I notify them or will they do it on their own?

No need to flip drag link…….

 

[word302]

So I don't need to for 3.5"

No, In fact you’d be negating the articulation that you paid for from the Metalcloak kit if you were to flip the drag link.

 

[Some Random Guy]

So I don't need to for 3.5"

Correct, @word302 nailed the issue. You lift 3.5, then lose 3.5 in up travel.

 

[Roky]

When I got my RK steering links (tie rod/drag link) I was considering flipping the drag link because apparently that was the only way to run the SS on top of the tie rod…..for whatever reason this info was not on their site ……. I’ve since fabricated a bracket and it’s working great, but that’s a story for another day…… This is how much room I have at full stuff between the drag link and the frame……

About an inch and a half, keep in mind, my bars are 1-3/4”. So I would have to run at least another puck of bump minimum, but one and a half to be safe….Running long travel shocks, I have only 5 ish inches of up travel, and I didn’t want to run any less……. My point is, your MC GC kit will have similar articulation, and you don’t want to constrict it, you want it to perform as intended, let the big dog eat..

 

[JINO]

They recently emailed me saying I need backspaced wheels.
I was planning on wheels after the lift, but it seems I'll have to do it simultaneously, or get spidertrax spacers.
3 more weeks until metalcloak delivers my lift.

 

[Headbarcode]

No, In fact you’d be negating the articulation that you paid for from the Metalcloak kit if you were to flip the drag link.

My thoughts exactly!

My JLUR is sitting 5.5" over stock height in the front and 6" in the rear, courtesy of Metalcloaks new 4.5" springs. After 15k miles, including a sacked out road trip to Tennessee and a couple days of crawling in Windrock Park, I've yet to see the need to flip the drag link.

Also worth mentioning, is that Will from Metalcloak has stated that they've seen no need to flip the drag link on their shop mule, after a year of testing the 4.5" springs.

If anything, my thoughts and findings have concluded that long arms are a more important thing to consider at this ride height.

 

[Headbarcode]

When I got my RK steering links (tie rod/drag link) I was considering flipping the drag link because apparently that was the only way to run the SS on top of the tie rod…..for whatever reason this info was not on their site ……. I’ve since fabricated a bracket and it’s working great, but that’s a story for another day…… This is how much room I have at full stuff between the drag link and the frame……

About an inch and a half, keep in mind, my bars are 1-3/4”. So I would have to run at least another puck of bump minimum, but one and a half to be safe….Running long travel shocks, I have only 5 ish inches of up travel, and I didn’t want to run any less……. My point is, your MC GC kit will have similar articulation, and you don’t want to constrict it, you want it to perform as intended, let the big dog eat..

It would first raise the thickness of the Reid knuckle mount, plus the 1.75" aluminum bar, and plus whatever small amount the rod end lifts the bar over the knuckle mount. An inch and a half added bumpstop spacing, and the drag link would still kiss the frame. 2" would probably be the minimum require to just clear, and that would suck to lose that uptravel just for the sake of a bit less bump steer feel.

 

[GATORB8]

They recently emailed me saying I need backspaced wheels.
I was planning on wheels after the lift, but it seems I'll have to do it simultaneously, or get spidertrax spacers.
3 more weeks until metalcloak delivers my lift.

What setup did you order?

 

[Roky]

It would first raise the thickness of the Reid knuckle mount, plus the 1.75" aluminum bar, and plus whatever small amount the rod end lifts the bar over the knuckle mount. An inch and a half added bumpstop spacing, and the drag link would still kiss the frame. 2" would probably be the minimum require to just clear, and that would suck to lose that uptravel just for the sake of a bit less bump steer feel.

Well there you go, even more reason not to go there….it was an avenue I visited to correct a problem that was immediately squashed…… I hacked up a MC bracket, now all is well…..lol…

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