Yes sir...
Huge thank youYes sir...
I've been very happy with them over the last 3.5+ years and nearly 65k miles. They are firmer than stock, which is what I wanted, but not so much so to be uncomfortable as a daily driver. Just enough to resist bottoming out under the load of multiple passengers or extra crap in the cargo area. Same for when dripping off of ledges.
They're an excellent option when looking to maximize articulation, but chasing total suspension travel can snowball into other modifications.
First off, a Rubicon that still has the front sway bar edisconnect will need links with upper and lower heim joints to not limit flex when electronically disconnected. I had the Rock Krawler No Limits links, but went with the shorter of the two sets that they offer and they weren't long enough when fully extended. I had to be mindful of not drooping a front tire too much, so as to not invert the sway bar. I definitely recommend their longer links with the 3.5" or taller Metalcloak Gamechanger.
Second limiting factor I ran into was the rear sway bar hitting the frame rails when stuffing my previous 38's. These 2 sway issues snowballed into front and rear Antirocks.
Once the sway bars and links weren't in the way, I found that the front 3.5" springs were unseating at full droop. I had also just went from 38's to 40's, and wasn't liking the loss of uptravel. MC's new 4.5" springs took care of those 2 limitations.
As it sits now, the front is pretty much squared away, but the rear still needs some clearance work. I had to cut out a section of the etorque battery pack skid to clear the driveshaft ujoint from hitting when stuffing the driver side and drooping the passenger side. I still have to address the same clearance issue with the fuel tank skid, but the asymmetrical geometry of the track bar makes the passenger rear droop a bit differently. Simply trimming the fuel tank skid won't be enough because the tank itself is right behind it. The axle side relocation bracket seen in the above pic helps, as it causes the axle to drop down a bit further before swinging right, but the frame side bracket really needs to be lowered and moved inward. This key geometry change will cause the driveshaft to drop lower before swinging outward toward the tank.
At the end of the day, the 6-packs are an all around great set of shocks. It really comes down to how far one wants to chase the rabbit down the hole of suspension travel. Heim joints on the front links, if it's a Rubicon, or anything manually disconnected on a different model will really let the 6-packs shine. Everything beyond that is gaining inches here and there. I'm just a bit hell bent on kicking the rabbit out of his hole, and I won't be able to do that until I get a set of 72.5" wide axles to pair with my 4.5" wheel backspace.
Wow, that was longer than expected. I'll stop now. ?
Ordered! RK should send you some free swag! hahaYes sir...
I've been very happy with them over the last 3.5+ years and nearly 65k miles. They are firmer than stock, which is what I wanted, but not so much so to be uncomfortable as a daily driver. Just enough to resist bottoming out under the load of multiple passengers or extra crap in the cargo area. Same for when dripping off of ledges.
They're an excellent option when looking to maximize articulation, but chasing total suspension travel can snowball into other modifications.
First off, a Rubicon that still has the front sway bar edisconnect will need links with upper and lower heim joints to not limit flex when electronically disconnected. I had the Rock Krawler No Limits links, but went with the shorter of the two sets that they offer and they weren't long enough when fully extended. I had to be mindful of not drooping a front tire too much, so as to not invert the sway bar. I definitely recommend their longer links with the 3.5" or taller Metalcloak Gamechanger.
Second limiting factor I ran into was the rear sway bar hitting the frame rails when stuffing my previous 38's. These 2 sway issues snowballed into front and rear Antirocks.
Once the sway bars and links weren't in the way, I found that the front 3.5" springs were unseating at full droop. I had also just went from 38's to 40's, and wasn't liking the loss of uptravel. MC's new 4.5" springs took care of those 2 limitations.
As it sits now, the front is pretty much squared away, but the rear still needs some clearance work. I had to cut out a section of the etorque battery pack skid to clear the driveshaft ujoint from hitting when stuffing the driver side and drooping the passenger side. I still have to address the same clearance issue with the fuel tank skid, but the asymmetrical geometry of the track bar makes the passenger rear droop a bit differently. Simply trimming the fuel tank skid won't be enough because the tank itself is right behind it. The axle side relocation bracket seen in the above pic helps, as it causes the axle to drop down a bit further before swinging right, but the frame side bracket really needs to be lowered and moved inward. This key geometry change will cause the driveshaft to drop lower before swinging outward toward the tank.
At the end of the day, the 6-packs are an all around great set of shocks. It really comes down to how far one wants to chase the rabbit down the hole of suspension travel. Heim joints on the front links, if it's a Rubicon, or anything manually disconnected on a different model will really let the 6-packs shine. Everything beyond that is gaining inches here and there. I'm just a bit hell bent on kicking the rabbit out of his hole, and I won't be able to do that until I get a set of 72.5" wide axles to pair with my 4.5" wheel backspace.
Wow, that was longer than expected. I'll stop now. ?
Here’s a couple pics showing how much more forgiving, and how they handle the misalignment so much better……pics are at full stuff…….Ordered! RK should send you some free swag! haha
I wouldn't turn down a hat or a shirt, but the real prize is helping fellow forum members. Those longer links should be able to keep up with the 3.5" Gamechanger with 6-packs. I had the shorter links, and they weren't long enough even when extended to their max length. Here's a pic that I took that shows their extended limit...Ordered! RK should send you some free swag! haha
Yeap they are on the way too good intuition, happy to hear the feedback is all positive. The early version of them that had QC issues gave an otherwise great shock an undeserved bad rep.
Great post..I am looking to go to 6-packs as I am chasing full articulation. I took off my rear sway awhile ago. Good info on the Heim joints on links. I am a little concerned about extra body roll but I guess only way to figure that out is get these on and start flexing, testing and probably more cutting lol....I am on a Rubicon JL 2.0 turbo non etorque.Yes sir...
I've been very happy with them over the last 3.5+ years and nearly 65k miles. They are firmer than stock, which is what I wanted, but not so much so to be uncomfortable as a daily driver. Just enough to resist bottoming out under the load of multiple passengers or extra crap in the cargo area. Same for when dripping off of ledges.
They're an excellent option when looking to maximize articulation, but chasing total suspension travel can snowball into other modifications.
First off, a Rubicon that still has the front sway bar edisconnect will need links with upper and lower heim joints to not limit flex when electronically disconnected. I had the Rock Krawler No Limits links, but went with the shorter of the two sets that they offer and they weren't long enough when fully extended. I had to be mindful of not drooping a front tire too much, so as to not invert the sway bar. I definitely recommend their longer links with the 3.5" or taller Metalcloak Gamechanger.
Second limiting factor I ran into was the rear sway bar hitting the frame rails when stuffing my previous 38's. These 2 sway issues snowballed into front and rear Antirocks.
Once the sway bars and links weren't in the way, I found that the front 3.5" springs were unseating at full droop. I had also just went from 38's to 40's, and wasn't liking the loss of uptravel. MC's new 4.5" springs took care of those 2 limitations.
As it sits now, the front is pretty much squared away, but the rear still needs some clearance work. I had to cut out a section of the etorque battery pack skid to clear the driveshaft ujoint from hitting when stuffing the driver side and drooping the passenger side. I still have to address the same clearance issue with the fuel tank skid, but the asymmetrical geometry of the track bar makes the passenger rear droop a bit differently. Simply trimming the fuel tank skid won't be enough because the tank itself is right behind it. The axle side relocation bracket seen in the above pic helps, as it causes the axle to drop down a bit further before swinging right, but the frame side bracket really needs to be lowered and moved inward. This key geometry change will cause the driveshaft to drop lower before swinging outward toward the tank.
At the end of the day, the 6-packs are an all around great set of shocks. It really comes down to how far one wants to chase the rabbit down the hole of suspension travel. Heim joints on the front links, if it's a Rubicon, or anything manually disconnected on a different model will really let the 6-packs shine. Everything beyond that is gaining inches here and there. I'm just a bit hell bent on kicking the rabbit out of his hole, and I won't be able to do that until I get a set of 72.5" wide axles to pair with my 4.5" wheel backspace.
Wow, that was longer than expected. I'll stop now. ?
