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dstrahm

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I didn't realize flat towing a JL was so complicated compared to a TJ/LJ, but I learned quickly. With my LJ, I used a Blue Ox Alpha tow bar and Blue Ox universal brackets that required me to drill holes in my bumper. The brackets looked like this, and were mounted 32" apart (maximum allowed).


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With my JLUR, I initially assumed I could use the same tow bar, and just buy another set of universal brackets. After I discovered the mounting points exceeded 32", and planning to mount a winch, I went with Maximus 3.

After ~5000 miles flat towing, I have had no problems. Installing the crossbar only takes a few moments longer, but hasn't caused me any problems.

My biggest challenge flat towing my JL was getting brake lights and turn signals working. Fortunately, my Jeep came with steel bumper, and I used magnetic lights from Harbor Freight.
Does your jeeep have the LED lighting option, specifically the LED taillight assemblies? Also, jeep wanted to lighten the frame on the JL so chose to make the steel thinner which required harder/stiffer steel to control the frame twist. Unfortunately, harder/stiffer steel is more prone to work hardening which is one of the reasons we are seeing more frame cracks. 😢😢
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Odyssey USA

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I didn’t use them as tow points but as recovery points. As to the part themselves, I was happy with them other than the twice failed factory powdercoating. I stripped them and rattle canned them with a paint I could easily find for touch ups after getting trail rash.
 

LukeDagny

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Does your jeeep have the LED lighting option, specifically the LED taillight assemblies?
Yes. After reading 28 pages of posts on tow lighting for a JL, I came away more confused on what to do. The Harbor Freight lights were a cheap and simple solution.
 

dstrahm

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Yes. After reading 28 pages of posts on tow lighting for a JL, I came away more confused on what to do. The Harbor Freight lights were a cheap and simple solution.
OK then, the short answer. With the LED tail light option there are two sense wires, one from each of the tail light assemblies to the computer. These sense wires need to be disconnected while towing.

Longer full answer.
Whenever the tail light functions are activated, even by a tow wiring setup, those sense wires send a signal to the computer that wakes it up if it’s asleep. The computer stays on for around 10 minutes drawing around 9 amps during that time. Easy to see how the battery can get drained after a long travel day because whenever you tap the brakes or activate the turn signal the computer is awakened. The time is shortened as the battery gets damaged each time it is drained, or even partially drained as operating below 12.1 volts permanently damages a lead acid battery. For three years I took my jeep to dealers across the US (we travel full time) and none of them knew of this issue and the 12v battery was replaced under warranty three times. one dealer even opened a technical case with jeep engineering and nothing ever came back.

There is at least one thread on this forum that mentioned they had found a solution that worked. www.cooltechllc.com has a switch such that you can open these two sense wires when towing so that the computer is not awakened during travel. Bingo, no more drained battery. Unfortunately, it has been reported that jeep made changes in the 2024 models that made this fix not work. Cool Tech LLC reportedly has a updated fix in the works but nothing is mentioned on their website as of the date of this comment.

Why did Jeep feel the need for the sense wires? Just to be cute? No. It’s your wonderful federal government at work. Seems there is a federal vehicle safety requirement that says there has to be a way to let the driver know that one of their signal lights are out. You can see evidence of that when your standard turn signal flashes rapidly. The system is telling you a bulb is not working. The newer LED lamps do not draw enough current to trip the circuit that causes rapid flashing so hence the sense circuit. (This is also why people that upgrade to LED tail lights get a permanent “bulb out” warning. I see the condition that it wakes the computer when this happens to be a design defect/shortcoming. Why when the computer is asleep does it need to wake up?
 

LukeDagny

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dstrahm, I remember reading about the cooltech solution, but $35 Harbor freight lights were a lot less expensive. Plus, not having to flip a switch is one less thing to remember to do when hooking up.

I'm sure the cooltech product works great, and may be added in the future. I was trying to save some money after buying a second towbar, the Maximus 3 tow plates and winch plate.
 

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dstrahm

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dstrahm, I remember reading about the cooltech solution, but $35 Harbor freight lights were a lot less expensive. Plus, not having to flip a switch is one less thing to remember to do when hooking up.

I'm sure the cooltech product works great, and may be added in the future. I was trying to save some money after buying a second towbar, the Maximus 3 tow plates and winch plate.
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houstonstroker

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I replaced my bumper with one from Rock Hard 4x4. It is an aluminum bumper with winch plate and hook ups for my Blue Ox bar. I have towed this Jeep thousands of miles behind my Super C motorhome with no problems. I did add the reinforced frame to bumper brackets for added strength. Just another option.
 

dstrahm

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I replaced my bumper with one from Rock Hard 4x4. It is an aluminum bumper with winch plate and hook ups for my Blue Ox bar. I have towed this Jeep thousands of miles behind my Super C motorhome with no problems. I did add the reinforced frame to bumper brackets for added strength. Just another option.
Rock Hard is one of the few aftermarket bumper makers that will confirm that their bumper will indeed work for flat towing, when you add the plates as you mentioned. I was wanting to stay with the stock steel bumper.
 

Bilymac

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I currently use the Maximus3 tow loops with my plastic bumper, but want to get the cheaper eBay steel bumper everybody is talking about. I’m just wondering if it installs like the factory plastic bumper does?
 

dstrahm

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I currently use the Maximus3 tow loops with my plastic bumper, but want to get the cheaper eBay steel bumper everybody is talking about. I’m just wondering if it installs like the factory plastic bumper does?
In general it does. If you already have a winch with your plastic bumper you’ll have to change out the current winch mounting and get a steel bumper mount.
I haven’t dealt with the “cheaper eBay steel bumper” but waited for a stock steel bumper takeoff from a local shop. The stock steel is a direct replacement for the stock plastic.
 

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mike5

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I used Maximus-3 mounts on my previous Gladiator. I wasn't a fan of the recommended tie rod for the towbar to keep the mounts from bending. The tie rod made hooking up harder, and I couldn't fold the towbar up and cover it when stopped without removing the tie rod. PITA. I now have Roadmaster direct connect mounts on the JLUR and made them work with my steel bumper and winch. They sandwich the frame, and don't hang down any further than the Maximus-3. A little shave on the winch plate sides was all that was needed. I bought Roadmaster adapters for my Blue Ox towbar.
20230928_131117.jpg

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Maximus-3 and tie rod
I used Maximus-3 mounts on my previous Gladiator. I wasn't a fan of the recommended tie rod for the towbar to keep the mounts from bending. The tie rod made hooking up harder, and I couldn't fold the towbar up and cover it when stopped without removing the tie rod. PITA. I now have Roadmaster direct connect mounts on the JLUR and made them work with my steel bumper and winch. They sandwich the frame, and don't hang down any further than the Maximus-3. A little shave on the winch plate sides was all that was needed. I bought Roadmaster adapters for my Blue Ox towbar.
20230928_131117.jpg

20231122_130238.jpg


Maximus-3 and tie rod
20220616_192743.jpg
I'm glad I found your post. I'm trying to decide which base plate for my 2023 Gladiator now. I was leaning hard toward the Maximus 3. The Roadmaster was the competition. I think I have decided.
 

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FWIW, I would talk to Maximus directly. I have the tow hooks but only use them as recovery points. They are near me so I have stopped in there a few times to pick up parts and had a long conversation with them about these. I know they made a change in the design along the way to increase the robustness for the towing. I did not drill the holes which they said was probably fine for recovery points only but those were added for the conditions while flat towing.
Anyway I would talk to them at least to understand their experience and logic. I don’t know if they are the best or not for flat towing but I do know that they put a lot into the engineering of those for that purpose. If nothing else I would suspect you will learn something from talking to them.
 

TJDave

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I'm glad I found your post. I'm trying to decide which base plate for my 2023 Gladiator now. I was leaning hard toward the Maximus 3. The Roadmaster was the competition. I think I have decided.
On my third season with the Roadmaster direct connect towbar mounts. No problems. Looking back on the post you quoted me. The third picture is of the Maximus-3 tie rod I had to order after their mounts were bending. They sent me a tie rod that was too long. 😆
 

mike5

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Demco makes a similar base plate to the Roadmaster. I don't if one is any better than the other though.
 

Siskababa

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I used Maximus-3 mounts on my previous Gladiator. I wasn't a fan of the recommended tie rod for the towbar to keep the mounts from bending. The tie rod made hooking up harder, and I couldn't fold the towbar up and cover it when stopped without removing the tie rod. PITA. I now have Roadmaster direct connect mounts on the JLUR and made them work with my steel bumper and winch. They sandwich the frame, and don't hang down any further than the Maximus-3. A little shave on the winch plate sides was all that was needed. I bought Roadmaster adapters for my Blue Ox towbar.
20230928_131117.jpg

20231122_130238.jpg


Maximus-3 and tie rod
20220616_192743.jpg
TJDave, I too have a Warn winch plate (P#101255) and a Blue Ox tow bar. Can you tell me the part # of the Roadmaster direct connect unit you used (when I searched, I found two different options)? When you say "a little shave on the winch plate sides", did you do this while the plate was installed (mine is)? I would appreciate any close up pics you can provide. Thanks, Nick
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