Towing question, tow dolly or flat tow?

[West_Coaster]

Just bought a JLUR and am working out how to tow it behind my Class A motorhome. I have a tow dolly, but it's 80" wide and my Jeep is 84" with the 37's. I was thinking of maybe buying some stock wheels and tires for the front, swapping them on to get the jeep on the tow dolly, and then changing back to the 37's when I'm at the wheeling place. My tow dolly has brakes at the wheels.

Otherwise, I have to figure out how to get a towbar and hook it up, plus figure out a braking system. My JL has a Poison front bumper with winch, and I've read using the 2 recovery brackets are a no-no. I will be calling poison to see what they say about towing.

Sponsored

 

[3TV]

I think you are going to get tired of swapping wheels every time you want to tow your Jeep.

A lightweight trailer might work. But you may need to find a trailer with drive over fenders to get an 84" wide Jeep on the trailer. The widest width between fenders on a trailer I have found is the 83" width of my current trailer, made by Lamar Trailers. Most trailers are 80" to 82" wide between the fenders. Changing to wheels with a less negative offset would also help. I wanted wheels with a -25 to -38 offset, but my Jeep wouldn't have fit between the fenders of my trailer. Wheels with a -12 offset work just fine.

 

[West_Coaster]

Thanks 3TV, I don't want to use a flat bed trailer, I don't have room to store it here at home. I do have my tow dolly, but I spoke with my buddy with a similar Jeep and he uses a Blue Ox connected to the bumper D ring brackets, using adapters from Etrailers. I checked with Poison Spyder and they say I can use the D ring brackets for towing. So I might go this route. Still, after I get a tow bar and misc parts, and then a braking system I'm near $3K just to tow the Jeep. I don't want to spend that much just to tow.

 

[LukeDagny]

Thanks 3TV, I don't want to use a flat bed trailer, I don't have room to store it here at home. I do have my tow dolly, but I spoke with my buddy with a similar Jeep and he uses a Blue Ox connected to the bumper D ring brackets, using adapters from Etrailers. I checked with Poison Spyder and they say I can use the D ring brackets for towing. So I might go this route. Still, after I get a tow bar and misc parts, and then a braking system I'm near $3K just to tow the Jeep. I don't want to spend that much just to tow.

Check some RV forum classified sections, Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace for used equipment. You're correct about the $3K, but I've seen some barely used equipment for hundreds of $ vs thousands. Blue OX is what I use, but there a few other good names.

I prefer flat towing because storing a tow dolly at a campground is a challenge.

 

[Jeep Wick]

Just bought a JLUR and am working out how to tow it behind my Class A motorhome. I have a tow dolly, but it's 80" wide and my Jeep is 84" with the 37's. I was thinking of maybe buying some stock wheels and tires for the front, swapping them on to get the jeep on the tow dolly, and then changing back to the 37's when I'm at the wheeling place. My tow dolly has brakes at the wheels.

Otherwise, I have to figure out how to get a towbar and hook it up, plus figure out a braking system. My JL has a Poison front bumper with winch, and I've read using the 2 recovery brackets are a no-no. I will be calling poison to see what they say about towing.

I used to tow dolly my YJ... It was not advised but it worked well. For the JL, it seems flat towing it behind the RV is the way to go. I know there are costs involved. Buy once, cry once would seem to apply here. I know there are brackets that will attach behind/below your bumper. I would trust those over any aftermarket bumper recovery points.

 

[rsmith56]

I am towing my 3rd Jeep. Have used Blue OX on all. They make a base plate which attaches to the frame under the front bumper. You would have to check. ETrailer is a good place to start. There are lots of braking options. Using air from you coach is the most expensive. There are others that are electric and work off the brake light. I have never had a problem stopping, even when I forgot to attach the braking device.

 

[RubiBlueJLU]

Towing on a dolly is NOT recommended. Tranny/transfer case damage. If you do, pull the rear drive shaft.

I have a 2021 JLURD w/ LED light package.

4-down is easy and quick.
I use a a Rock Jock base plate. There are versions for factory plastic and steel bumpers. Maybe other bumpers, too. A lot of options out there. Depending on your bumper, you may be able to use the D-ring loops.
I run an obsolete Blue Ox tow bar with integrated braking. Fully mechanical (diesel is limiting). You will need a braking system for the Jeep under tow. There are many options out there.
Tail lights wired up with a Curt wiring kit. Runs front to rear, no splicing.
My setup can be hooked up or unhooked in under 5 minutes. Tow bar stays on RV, other parts in a small storage pouch.
I do run a front cover on the Jeep. That takes another 5 minutes.

 

[West_Coaster]

I had not heard of transfer case damage from using a tow dolly, that's a bummer. This happens even with the transfer case in neutral? Will have to read up on that.

 

[azjl#3]

flat tow, blue ox, etrailers base plate, and RVI3 brake controller.

Do not dolly tow unless you want to disco axle, a pain.

 

[Stetson]

Flat tow is the way to go. I had a ‘19 Sahara I flat towed for years for many thousands of miles with no issue. I sold it last summer and bought a new Willy’s in the fall. I use the same set up. I have flat towed it on three trips so far for a total of about 1,500 miles.

I use the ready brute system from NSA surge towbar and the blue ox base plate. I also use the NSA light kit for the brakes and turn signals. Works great. Easy to hook up and in hook. I keep everything in the rear storage in my RV.

Stetson

 

[au176]

Jeeps aren't supposed to be dollied. Read your manual for info.

IMHO, flat-towing is the way to go. No trailers to store, quickest to go from toad to driver compared to pulling a full trailer, or a dolly for that matter.

My set-up is:

• Blue OX non-binding towbar on the motorhome
• Maximus-3 tow loops on the Jeep (basically invisible when not in use- see pic)
• Cool Tech towing harness for the lights (Flip a switch, and your lights are good to go.)
• RVi towed battery charger (No dead battery when you get where you're going.)
• Patriot Brake system (It's a good choice, but wasn't what I wanted. However, since it came free with the motorhome, it's what I use. It works well, and I'm not spending $1500 to replace something that works!)

I installed everything on the Jeep myself, and while none of it is "Plug-n-play easy", it's not really hard if you like working on your vehicle yourself. You might even use it as an excuse to buy a couple new tools!

Also, if you are going to attach the towbar to your bumper, MAKE SURE IT'S RATED for that. Many are NOT. The nice thing about baseplates and the tow loops is that they are mounted DIRECTLY to the frame.

 

[3TV]

A few people have mentioned that a JL should not be dollied. An explanation of why that is the case would be helpful. I read at some point that the reason is because the front output shaft of the transfer case needs to be turning to provide proper oil distribution. If only the rear output shaft is turning and not the front, then the gears are turning, but without proper oiling. This is even the case with the transfer case in neutral.

I can't vouch for the validity of this, but it makes sense. If someone really knows why the JL shouldn't be dollied, I would like to hear an explanation.

 

[LukeDagny]

Jeeps aren't supposed to be dollied. Read your manual for info.

IMHO, flat-towing is the way to go. No trailers to store, quickest to go from toad to driver compared to pulling a full trailer, or a dolly for that matter.

My set-up is:

• Blue OX non-binding towbar on the motorhome
• Maximus-3 tow loops on the Jeep (basically invisible when not in use- see pic)
• Cool Tech towing harness for the lights (Flip a switch, and your lights are good to go.)
• RVi towed battery charger (No dead battery when you get where you're going.)
• Patriot Brake system (It's a good choice, but wasn't what I wanted. However, since it came free with the motorhome, it's what I use. It works well, and I'm not spending $1500 to replace something that works!)

I installed everything on the Jeep myself, and while none of it is "Plug-n-play easy", it's not really hard if you like working on your vehicle yourself. You might even use it as an excuse to buy a couple new tools!

Also, if you are going to attach the towbar to your bumper, MAKE SURE IT'S RATED for that. Many are NOT. The nice thing about baseplates and the tow loops is that they are mounted DIRECTLY to the frame.

Your installation looks very clean, but there is more than one way to skin a cat.

I have Blue Ox tow bar and brake system, and Maximus 3 tow loops. My Jeep has the steel bumpers, so I use magnetic brake/turn signal from Harbor Freight instead of Cool Tech and RVi equipment. Flipping a switch sounds a lot more convenient, than what I go through.

I wish I could have found a free brake system. The "buy once cry once" applies here. This is the second Jeep I've set up for flat owing using this equipment.

 

[au176]

A few people have mentioned that a JL should not be dollied. An explanation of why that is the case would be helpful. I read at some point that the reason is because the front output shaft of the transfer case needs to be turning to provide proper oil distribution. If only the rear output shaft is turning and not the front, then the gears are turning, but without proper oiling. This is even the case with the transfer case in neutral.

I can't vouch for the validity of this, but it makes sense. If someone really knows why the JL shouldn't be dollied, I would like to hear an explanation.

My answer to this is, "because Jeep said so." As for their reasoning, I have no idea...

 

[au176]

Your installation looks very clean, but there is more than one way to skin a cat.

I have Blue Ox tow bar and brake system, and Maximus 3 tow loops. My Jeep has the steel bumpers, so I use magnetic brake/turn signal from Harbor Freight instead of Cool Tech and RVi equipment. Flipping a switch sounds a lot more convenient, than what I go through.

I wish I could have found a free brake system. The "buy once cry once" applies here. This is the second Jeep I've set up for flat owing using this equipment.

That works too! The "installation of your lights" is a LOT easier than me running the Cool Tech harness, although mines customized to also go to lights mounted on a bike rack on the Jeep's rear hitch. When I do have bikes on it, you can barely see the Jeep's rear lights.

You might be jealous to know that the BlueOx tow bar came with the motorhome also. I like it when something comes with a couple thousand worth of extras buried in a sidebox! I REALLY got lucky when I bought it!

Sponsored