Towing question, tow dolly or flat tow?

[cha lee]

Looking at the manual for my 24 Rubicon, it specifically states for a dolly " not allowed "

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[LukeDagny]

Jeeps aren't supposed to be dollied. Read your manual for info.

IMHO, flat-towing is the way to go. No trailers to store, quickest to go from toad to driver compared to pulling a full trailer, or a dolly for that matter.

My set-up is:

• Blue OX non-binding towbar on the motorhome
• Maximus-3 tow loops on the Jeep (basically invisible when not in use- see pic)
• Cool Tech towing harness for the lights (Flip a switch, and your lights are good to go.)
• RVi towed battery charger (No dead battery when you get where you're going.)
• Patriot Brake system (It's a good choice, but wasn't what I wanted. However, since it came free with the motorhome, it's what I use. It works well, and I'm not spending $1500 to replace something that works!)

I installed everything on the Jeep myself, and while none of it is "Plug-n-play easy", it's not really hard if you like working on your vehicle yourself. You might even use it as an excuse to buy a couple new tools!

Also, if you are going to attach the towbar to your bumper, MAKE SURE IT'S RATED for that. Many are NOT. The nice thing about baseplates and the tow loops is that they are mounted DIRECTLY to the frame.

Just returned from a 4 week RV trip, flat towing my JLUR. I decided to add the Cool Tech harness. My original set up described in post #13, used Harbor Freight magnetic LED lights on my steel bumper. These lights, although inexpensive, weren't the most convenient.

I would route the wiring under my Jeep and use a couple of bread ties to secure the wiring to the Jeep, so the wiring didn't drag on the ground. One day, the bread ties didn't hold and the wiring dragged, wearing through the insulation. Fortunately, we found another Harbor Freight, and for $35, was back in business. Another day, I didn't route the harness with enough slack, and the harness became unplugged when I made a turn.

There was a 15 day stretch where we moved every 3 days. It was becoming a PITA to lay on the ground to secure the LED light wiring harness with bread ties to the underneath of the Jeep, especially if it was raining when we hooked up.

So for the next trip, just plug in the 7 pin to 6 pin umbilical cable, and flip the switch. Cool Tech instructions suggest running their harness down through a floor drain and then along the frame to the front bumper. I ran my cable inside from the passenger seat , along the console, cross over behind the center console, and out through the firewall along the driver's side exterior wall.

I figured along as I pulled the carpet to run the cable, I took the opportunity to remove the passenger seat and add some sound deadening material. I also found $0.35 that worked its way under the carpet, so that made it worth it.

For anybody looking to run any wiring through the firewall, there's a round plastic fitting on the driver's side firewall, just below the brake booster. I used a step drill on a flexible extension to drill a 3/4" hole in the fitting. In addition to the Cool Tech cable, which is 4 insulated wires inside a black covering, I ran the yellow trigger wire for my AMP Research retractable step, and the break away wire to feed in my brake system.

Here's a picture of the hole in the firewall from the inside;

 

[au176]

NIce mod running it inside the Jeep!

I ran the CoolTech harness INSIDE the frame where it comes out under the seat up to the front using existing holes with grommets in them to protect the cable. It took a while longer than zip-tieing it along the frame, but it's protected, and I won't have to worry about zip-ties failing as they age.

 

[Zandcwhite]

A few people have mentioned that a JL should not be dollied. An explanation of why that is the case would be helpful. I read at some point that the reason is because the front output shaft of the transfer case needs to be turning to provide proper oil distribution. If only the rear output shaft is turning and not the front, then the gears are turning, but without proper oiling. This is even the case with the transfer case in neutral.

I can't vouch for the validity of this, but it makes sense. If someone really knows why the JL shouldn't be dollied, I would like to hear an explanation.

With the fad, the front shaft isn't turning in 2wd being driven or flat towing in neutral either. If the front shaft had to turn for proper oiling the FAD would destroy the tcase. Haven't had the new t-cases apart but the 231 and 242s I've rebuilt had the oil pump driven off the main shaft, which has no front shaft/ chain involvement whatsoever.

 

[grimmjeeper]

I had not heard of transfer case damage from using a tow dolly, that's a bummer. This happens even with the transfer case in neutral? Will have to read up on that.

Yep. With the transfer case in neutral, you're not driving enough of the internals of the case and you don't get proper lubrication. This is a "bad thing".

 

[3TV]

I have started using an RV for camping instead of paying for motel rooms. The "RV" is a large slide in camper on the back of a Ram 3500 dually. So, to bring the Jeep my wife would have to drive either the 392 on 40s or the Ram dually with a very tall 5,000 lb camper in the bed. She doesn't really want to do either. To solve that I have been trailering my 392 on our last two four wheeling trips. It is working out great and it is so nice not to wear out a set of 40s on the highway.

 

[JeepinPete]

For a part time transfer case, towing on a dolly would make zero difference compared to flat towing. The FAD is disconnected by default, the front driveshaft is not spinning, on a dolly or with the front axle on the road.

I suspect the auto 4wd cases are to blame for the simple ban. I could see the clutches getting fried due to the actuator not being energized.

 

[Zandcwhite]

Yep. With the transfer case in neutral, you're not driving enough of the internals of the case and you don't get proper lubrication. This is a "bad thing".

But with the FAD you aren't driving any more internals with the front axle on the ground than you would be with it on a dolly? I can't see how it makes any difference? I think the real issue is that most dollies are only rated for vehicles that weigh less than 5k pounds. The pump is driven by the rear output shaft. Any time it is turning it's pumping. 2wd, 4wd, rolling down a hill, being flat towed, or being towed on a dolly. Nothing is different with the fluid in any of those scenarios.

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