Maximize 3.6 Reliability

[mwilk012]

I’m sorry but you guys are absolutely wrong in using the high octane gas. That engine was built for 87 octane. Not only does it run worse on high octane but it can hurt the engine. Highly recommend you do some research about it. Your wasting so much money on a myth.

Not only did we never mention higher octane gas, but the idea that 91 octane ethanol free could cause engine damage is completely unfounded.

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[jellis4148]

Not only did we never mention higher octane gas, but the idea that 91 octane ethanol free could cause engine damage is completely unfounded.

Preach on brother, lol. Higher Octane isn't going to hurt the engine. You won't gain in HP from it. The combustion chamber might be a little cooler, but I doubt it. Where I live the only way to get 0 ethanol in your gas is to buy 91 octane. You will gain a very small amount of fuel mileage not have ethanol, but that's the only gain. I'm a believer that it is hard on the fuel system and components even if they are designed to deal with it.

 

[bcupton]

O.K., you asked about the 3.6 engine. Below is from one of the Engineers that Designed it:

Nice! As an former Pentastar design engineer I am slightly bias but the engine is really high quality. Few points from the development using tens of millions of dollars in analysis and testing regarding the oil and durability..... The lighter oil was chosen mostly for fuel economy BUT engineering is the science of compromise. You help one thing but hurt another. A thicker oil will reduce timing chain and tensioner wear because the center timing chain idler doesn't go fully hydrodynamic till about 1650rpm on 5w-20. So, a thicker oil will lower that number slightly and with general loads/speeds the engine spends a lot of time around 1500-1750 rpm with the 8 speed. So thicker oil is a win there. Additionally, the earlier engines had what was called the "McDonald's Arches" in the idler bearing which was intended in making a more uniform distribution but in actuality acted as a knife edge. This design was changed around 2014 to a smooth bearing. So overall timing chain issues will likely follow the 2011-2014 engine years more than 2014+. Where you lose.... The head is very complicated with a Type II valve train. Meaning lots of things to pressurize and pump up at start up. A thicker oil didn't do so well here (on long sit times +cold start) and contributed to a overall increased engine wear especially in the head and cam bearings. Last point. This engine needs occasional WOT runs if you want it to last. Granny cycling is bad for it. So bad for it we actually created a new granny cycle test during the cylinder #3 misfire issue. The highest wear is in the valve guides, because of tight valve stem seals (for emissions, reduce oil burn). They basically dry out. When you go WOT/high rpm/load you get some fresh oil in there and this keeps the wear down. Thicker oil might not help this condition but we also change the valves/guides/seals in 2014+. Not sure the impact. Cheers! Kevin PS. Turn off stop start and do not run e85 if you are concerned about engine wear. Eats the engine alive.

What is WOT RUNS?

 

[jack bauer]

What is WOT RUNS?

Wide Open Throttle

 

[bthomp]

This thread derailed pretty bad ? I will help OP with an idea!

So for me (i am going to become a 3.6 V6 owner soon if all goes as planned) it looks like the number one thing this engine needs is proper lubrication

Others have chimed in about the oil change interval but i do not think that is the problem.. I
I think the issue is that this engine dumbs the oil back into the pan every time you turn it off

Which is why they make the following mod to stop it from doing that!

To me this would probably be my first mod to keep the engine lubricated 100% of the time

Is this a mod that voids warranty?

 

[Wicked_JL]

Is this a mod that voids warranty?

That is a solid question and I would say Yes…. But that will probably depend on your dealership and the service people that you deal with.. but very possible yes

 

[NWJeepr]

I’m sorry but you guys are absolutely wrong in using the high octane gas. That engine was built for 87 octane. Not only does it run worse on high octane but it can hurt the engine. Highly recommend you do some research about it. Your wasting so much money on a myth.

I had a 2012 3.6 which I bought new. It would ping (pre-detonate) slightly with 87 in warmer weather, which is a fairly common issue. The owners manual basically says the ECM won’t do anything with the added octane when it isn’t needed—The timing will adjust. Using 89 eliminated the ping. That’s not a myth, it’s science.

 

[bthomp]

We never said a word about high octane. Top Tier fuel has more cleaners and detergents in them to help DI engines from getting carbon build up on the valves. A lot of manufactures actually recommend top tier fuel. The less ethanol you put in an engine the better off it is.

How do you find “top tier”? What levels should people look for? Thx.

 

[1BadManVan]

How do you find “top tier”? What levels should people look for? Thx.

Just go to toptiertgas.com. There will even be a link on the site to show you stations in your area. Most bigger stations are top tier such as chevron, shell, Sunoco, Costco gas etc.

 

[jbcrane]

This is a great thread. Thanks to everyone who offered their thoughts, with special thanks to the gentleman who worked on the engine. I'm interested too in maximizing life of my 3.6L - it's why I bought it. None of this new-fangled, fancy-schmancy, turbo-charged, flux capacitor tech for me. Give me blue-chip, tried and true. Especially because another recent thread of someone losing their 2.0L at 68K miles. I test drove a 2.0LT and thought it was pretty peppy, pretty fun. But then the sales guy told me it was the 2.0L and I quickly lost interest... Intellectually I know every engine can fail - but this is where the Money Ball factor comes in... statistics. History. Track record.

Two questions:
1) Are the 3.6L Pentastars all made in Mexico?
2) Catch Cans: Good idea? Bad idea? What sayeth the tribe??

 

[PBosch]

I’m sorry but you guys are absolutely wrong in using the high octane gas. That engine was built for 87 octane. Not only does it run worse on high octane but it can hurt the engine. Highly recommend you do some research about it. Your wasting so much money on a myth.

As far as I understand, basically all of the major gas stations are top tier (according to the top tier website). 76, Chevron, CITGO Conoco, Costco, Exxon, Marathon, Mobil, Phillips 66, QT, QuickTrip, Shamrock, Shell, SInclair, Sunco, Texaco, Valero. And that is less than half the list. It's seems that it would be almost difficult not to be buying a top tier fuel.

 

[Dusty Dude]

This is a great thread. Thanks to everyone who offered their thoughts, with special thanks to the gentleman who worked on the engine. I'm interested too in maximizing life of my 3.6L - it's why I bought it. None of this new-fangled, fancy-schmancy, turbo-charged, flux capacitor tech for me. Give me blue-chip, tried and true. Especially because another recent thread of someone losing their 2.0L at 68K miles. I test drove a 2.0LT and thought it was pretty peppy, pretty fun. But then the sales guy told me it was the 2.0L and I quickly lost interest... Intellectually I know every engine can fail - but this is where the Money Ball factor comes in... statistics. History. Track record.

Two questions:
1) Are the 3.6L Pentastars all made in Mexico?
2) Catch Cans: Good idea? Bad idea? What sayeth the tribe??

Catch cans are a great idea. Your intake runners/ports stay cleaner for a much longer time, and you are not burning oil along with the gas. IMHO, the only reason they are not standard equipment is because of the maintenance required (draining the can).

 

[jbcrane]

Catch cans are a great idea. Your intake runners/ports stay cleaner for a much longer time, and you are not burning oil along with the gas. IMHO, the only reason they are not standard equipment is because of the maintenance required (draining the can).

On average, how often are you draining the can?

 

[jbcrane]

I'm typically putting less than 100 miles/wk on mine, and popping the hood regularly... and don't mind fiddling (otherwise put: obsessing) with stuff... so I'm thinking this wouldn't be a problem for me.

 

[jellis4148]

How do you find “top tier”? What levels should people look for? Thx.

www.toptiergas.com. As far as ethanol the engine is designed to work with 15% if I remember correctly. Every state and gas station is different. Where I love you have to buy 91 octane to get ethanol free. 87 octane is 15% ethanol. I’ve seen a few stations say all of their fuel is ethanol free, but that’s very few around here.

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