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Manual Transmission - Issues shifting into 1st & Reverse (Compilation thread)

Cutterone

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IDK the tranny oil? but that is shared with the brake system right? I'm not saying they were lying about the clutch, but I need my Jeep to just work, I don't have time to mess around with these issues its having, and it just wasn't a good long term bet in my opinion, for my needs anyway. I drove nothing but stick for 30 years, I think I put my time in! I just think the 6sp tranny as a whole, shotty twin disc clutch, odd gear spacing, inadequate final drive ratio (in sport/sahara anyway), just wasn't what should have been put in a Wrangler in the first place. In the least all 6sp should have come with minimun 4.10, and the option to go to 4.56 or 4.88 should have been there from the start. I will certainly miss it at times, my left foot is still constantly looking for that third pedal! When my kids are off on their own and I can go back to a 2dr...yeah it might have to be stick again...
 

Sidewalk

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The fluid is very, very dark. Like black."
My motorcycles with hydraulic clutches turned black within hours of riding, and were never a problem. I had 24,000 miles on my 1000RR in two years (half that time I was out to sea) and it was flawless.


I do not see myself driving an auto jeep...... yet lol
Me neither. If I sell this Jeep, I'm going with something else with a manual.
 

Cutterone

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I've had 5 Jeeps (1 JK with 3.8, 2 JL with 6sp, now JL with auto turbo, and 1 WK1), and all were pretty steadfast reliable, never let me down. But with the clutch issues now at the forefront, I just don't trust it long term, as I am seeing on this forum people still having issues wether it be the new recall clutch, CF2, ACT, etc... So I'm just wonder if its something inherent in the whole transmission design that isn't up to snuff??? Because I thought I was golden putting in the CF2 but issues still arose...
 
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SadRobot

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Well looks like my clutch is coming out yet again but of no fault of its own. I have to transfer it from my current engine to the new engine.

I've been really happy with the performance of the ACT since it got re-installed properly by ACT and @Actman. It's been great offroad and the pedal feel is way better than after original install.

I'm looking forward to getting the Jeep back on the road again soon. 🤞
 

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_olllllllo_

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Ok all I finally have some good news to report. After several weeks of corresponding with @Actman to troubleshoot we were finally able to find a time for me to get my Jeep up to ACT in Lancaster, CA. Here is what we discovered. I forgot to take pictures so I'll describe everything the best I can.

- The issue with my clutch was the grease as Dirk suspected. The transmission shop told me they used the purple grease that comes from the kit but after opening it up it was clear that the grease on my splines was red and had a tacky, sticky and almost sap like feel. They used some sort of bearing grease that mixed with the clutch disc dust and formed this goop that was causing the clutch to drag. It looks like it just took several months and 10k miles for this symptoms to start happening.

- It is still unclear where and when the leak of my hydraulics falls into all of this. I 100% did have a leak at the hydraulic line connection to the master. So once that was discovered and remedied my problem with the spline grease manifested itself again. I don't believe there was ever anything wrong with my original slave and master cylinders that have since been replaced.

- My clutch was removed and bench tested. It all tested fine. There was no issue with the actual clutch parts. The wear on my clutch disc was also very minimal for having at this point about 14k miles on it.

- The croaking sound was coming from inside the bell housing.

yikes-gif.gif


It was not from the hydraulic parts NOR the clutch itself (as the bench test proved). It seems to be caused by the ball that the clutch fork pivots on. There was some uneven wear at the end of the ball and the paint had worn away at almost a point inside the clutch fork pocket. They cleaned this all out and we'll see if the croaking comes back but for now I have not heard that particular sound again (I drove about 60 miles back home).

- The drive home from Lancaster was shift issue free! Jeep is driving/shifting normal again.

It was such a huge relief after 3 months and over 2k spent to finally find out what was going on. A huge thanks to ACT, Dirk and his whole crew. I got to spend the whole day at their facility and they are just a great company with great people who just love clutches and want to make vehicles (including Jeeps) shift better.

Dirk and I talked a lot about what a difference the ACT makes in compared to the stock clutch when wheeling. I can't wait to get my Jeep back on the trails!
I appear to be having a similar issue with a shop that was subcontracted to install my clutch in March 2023. The main shop had so many issues with the sub shop that they switched shops. The new shop worked with Centerforce and the ball/nipple seems to not either press on the pressure plate evenly and there is a buildup of grease from the poor shop. For context they greased the hell out of the splines, but must not have had any left for the ball and fork!!. I am upgrading to the hydraulic throw out bearing, while the transmission is separated from the engine.
 

andrei

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44 pages of LOLs and tears — I made it, and it feels better knowing I’m not alone in this adventure with ACT. Chewbacca groaning sent shivers down my spine after 4000 miles, and now gear lock out/in crap after 7600 miles.

My issue with gear lock out/in is identical to what’s been described here and pictured in the videos, It started with a refusal to engage from 2nd to 3rd at high RPM. Over time, 1st gear also became difficult to engage. Yesterday, things went totally kaput — Reverse, 1st, and 2nd gears wouldn’t engage or disengage without a fight and grinding.

No issues with the hydraulics on my end: no strange sounds, the housing is dry, fluid level in the reservoir is steady, it engages into gear without a roll, and holding the clutch pedal down for 5 minutes keeps the clutch disengaged.

My issue is definitely heat-related. I only have problems with 1st gear after a short 5–10 minute stop, never on the first drive of the day, prolonged drive or after Jeep been parked for hours. The issue goes away once I start driving, and the transmission operates smoothly afterward. That tells me the clutch mechanism stays cool during driving, and heat transfers into it while parked.

Yesterday, the fight with Reverse, 1st, and 2nd began after a trip to the store, while the drive to the store itself was completely smooth. This morning, I drove to work and left without any issues, as if nothing happened the day before. However, I now feel and hear a delay during shifts, each clutch release is followed by an audible thump, like there’s binding and a sudden release.

As for the cause — during installation, I used the grease provided by ACT, and only as much as that tiny packet held. So… make of that what you will.

I’ll be pulling the transmission this Friday and wiping the grease off. If anyone wants specific pictures, let me know.










... my TJ, how much i miss you ...
 

BHank0688

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44 pages of LOLs and tears — I made it, and it feels better knowing I’m not alone in this adventure with ACT. Chewbacca groaning sent shivers down my spine after 4000 miles, and now gear lock out/in crap after 7600 miles.

My issue with gear lock out/in is identical to what’s been described here and pictured in the videos, It started with a refusal to engage from 2nd to 3rd at high RPM. Over time, 1st gear also became difficult to engage. Yesterday, things went totally kaput — Reverse, 1st, and 2nd gears wouldn’t engage or disengage without a fight and grinding.

No issues with the hydraulics on my end: no strange sounds, the housing is dry, fluid level in the reservoir is steady, it engages into gear without a roll, and holding the clutch pedal down for 5 minutes keeps the clutch disengaged.

My issue is definitely heat-related. I only have problems with 1st gear after a short 5–10 minute stop, never on the first drive of the day, prolonged drive or after Jeep been parked for hours. The issue goes away once I start driving, and the transmission operates smoothly afterward. That tells me the clutch mechanism stays cool during driving, and heat transfers into it while parked.

Yesterday, the fight with Reverse, 1st, and 2nd began after a trip to the store, while the drive to the store itself was completely smooth. This morning, I drove to work and left without any issues, as if nothing happened the day before. However, I now feel and hear a delay during shifts, each clutch release is followed by an audible thump, like there’s binding and a sudden release.

As for the cause — during installation, I used the grease provided by ACT, and only as much as that tiny packet held. So… make of that what you will.

I’ll be pulling the transmission this Friday and wiping the grease off. If anyone wants specific pictures, let me know.










... my TJ, how much i miss you ...
Good luck, hopefully something shows itself as the problem and is easily fixed. I’d be mostly curious what the splines on the transmission look like right after being pulled. Have you tried to use a camera scope to see the splines? With mine I am able to see them and have someone push the clutch pedal and can see things moving smoothly. I believe someone had some burs or something on their splines and sanded them down/ cleaned them up and had some success with that fix. I’m curious if each time the transmission is removed if we should all start checking the gap between the transmission splines and disc while cold and then afterwards with applying some heat on it? Then seeing if it slides smoothly still or not? Just something I’ve been thinking I’ll try to do when and if mine comes back apart.
 

LatteSipper

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It’s disappointing to read about everyone’s issues. I began wondering how to maintain mine for the next 6+ years; how many times to bleed the hydraulics, or replace a slave cylinder, or pull the transmission to inspect or clean the transmission input shaft?

2 weeks ago I traded my 21 JLU 6MT with aftermarket clutch for an automatic JT Mojave. Jeep life is good again.
 

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andrei

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It’s disappointing to read about everyone’s issues. I began wondering how to maintain mine for the next 6+ years; how many times to bleed the hydraulics, or replace a slave cylinder, or pull the transmission to inspect or clean the transmission input shaft?

2 weeks ago I traded my 21 JLU 6MT with aftermarket clutch for an automatic JT Mojave. Jeep life is good again.
i will buy Tesla before i buy Wrangler with auto
 

_olllllllo_

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So a follow-up on my Centerforce Dual Friction. The shop identified that the first contracted shop used Red N' Tacky, which caused binding with the throwout bearing. The clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel looked fine and the disc had minimal wear. They replaced the shift fork and installed the hydraulic throw out bearing and new master that came in the kit. What a difference. The engagement is butter smooth and the engagement point is so consistent. It is a different vehicle. The new shop contacted Centerforce and talked through all the permutations and possibilities. I highly recommend the Centerforce clutch, but do yourself a favor and get the kit with the hydraulic throw out bearing. I believe all the Centerforce kits for the JL come with upgraded hydraulics.
 

andrei

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Good luck, hopefully something shows itself as the problem and is easily fixed. I’d be mostly curious what the splines on the transmission look like right after being pulled. Have you tried to use a camera scope to see the splines? With mine I am able to see them and have someone push the clutch pedal and can see things moving smoothly. I believe someone had some burs or something on their splines and sanded them down/ cleaned them up and had some success with that fix. I’m curious if each time the transmission is removed if we should all start checking the gap between the transmission splines and disc while cold and then afterwards with applying some heat on it? Then seeing if it slides smoothly still or not? Just something I’ve been thinking I’ll try to do when and if mine comes back apart.
Dont have borescope.
Thank you for heads up, i purchase a set of files to address that just in case. That has me uncertain thought, if burs develop that means there is deformation happening while some misalignment is trying to work itself out, or used material is not up to spec. Until that mechanical interaction between parts works out, the issue will comeback.

I decided to postpone this job till next week, cant find clutch alignment tool or any dry lube locally, waiting for online order to come in. What is interesting, clutch has been operating normally since my disastrous adventure on Monday, some random clunking due to what i assume a travel delay due to binding, otherwise shifts feel good. Had i dropped it off at the dealer, they would tell me everything operates fine, issue cant be replicated, here is your another fookin $500 rental bill.
 

bjm00se

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So a follow-up on my Centerforce Dual Friction. The shop identified that the first contracted shop used Red N' Tacky, which caused binding with the throwout bearing. The clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel looked fine and the disc had minimal wear. They replaced the shift fork and installed the hydraulic throw out bearing and new master that came in the kit. What a difference. The engagement is butter smooth and the engagement point is so consistent. It is a different vehicle. The new shop contacted Centerforce and talked through all the permutations and possibilities. I highly recommend the Centerforce clutch, but do yourself a favor and get the kit with the hydraulic throw out bearing. I believe all the Centerforce kits for the JL come with upgraded hydraulics.
Lots of folks say their new clutch "feels great" immediately after installation.

Please come back and let us know how it's doing after six months or more. That's when most aftermarket clutch probs seem to be turning up
 

_olllllllo_

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Lots of folks say their new clutch "feels great" immediately after installation.

Please come back and let us know how it's doing after six months or more. That's when most aftermarket clutch probs seem to be turning up
I have had the clutch more than 2 years. The issue I had was the sub contracted shop using red n’ tacky. I had the hydraulic throw out bearing installed and it has made it even better. I have towed a trailer through the Colorado mountains and rock crawled at Moab with the Centerforce Dual Friction.
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