M200 axle strength??

[word302]

Yeah I guess I dont understand why people pay for used when they can buy new. i guess they dont know that?.

There seems to be a misconception that switching to rubi axles is really cheap compared to locking the sport axles. When you run the numbers it isnt black and white unless you find a good deal on used rubi axles.

The value for your money you get out of the rubi axles, even new, is better than running the stock sport axles. But running stock axles can save you some $$$.

The decision is even trickier than when you have a d44 on the rear and a d30 up front lol. Thats my case. If anything fails on my front axle Id just replace for a short d44.

If I was on OPs shoes tho, I would go with new axles. It isnt an easy choice tho I get it.

Yeah the prices were kind of set before the crate axles were available. That and I just don’t think the masses know about the crate axles and their price point. I mean, if I can get $6k for my 5.13-geared Rubi axles I’m not gonna say no.?

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[Joaquim]

Just realized mopar website sells factory Dana 44 crate axles - also a Dana 60?? The D44s are 2k each https://www.allmoparparts.com/part-model/jeep-wrangler-jl-axle.html

 

[mgroeger]

I've got an '18 Sport S Wrangler JL with an m200 (which is a Dana Super 35?) in the rear with KO2 35s and a 2 inch fox lift kit and a d30 m186 axle in the front all powered by the 3.6L v6 mated to an 8 speed auto. How much power can these axles really take? Should I be worried about off-roading them? What sort of things should I avoid doing to avoid snapping the axles? The weak points of them are the U joints and the axle shaft itself correct? I was also wondering if it would be safe to add aftermarket lockers to this build or if it would be better to save and upgrade to D60s in the long-term? And overall, I was wondering how strong these axles are compared to earlier variations of the Dana 30/35s (from the JK & earlier) - which I have heard so many bad things about.

Thanks,

There are tons of posts here with the info you seek. Back in the day when we had a JL Sahara I called Dana/Spycer and asked these same questions. They said 35s are fine for Mall Crawling and light off roading with the m200 and m186 axles. If you start getting into serious off roading you will eventually have problems.
That being said do not waste your money putting lockers into those axles. Drive it, wheel it, have fun with it and if they break just upgrade to D44 axles. The most I would do to those axles is put Chrome Molly shafts in them to beef them up. It's a cheap easy option.
Unless you are going to SERIOUSLY off road there is no need for D60s IMO. I've wheeled the snot out of D44s with Chrome Molly shafts in rear and RCVs up front and 38x13.5 tires with no problems. The only real reason to jump to a D60 over a D44 is if you want to go to 40" or larger tires.
To answer your last question, the M200 and M186 are way better than their D30/35 counterparts.

 

[Some Random Guy]

Just realized mopar website sells factory Dana 44 crate axles - also a Dana 60?? The D44s are 2k each https://www.allmoparparts.com/part-model/jeep-wrangler-jl-axle.html

You have to bring the hubs, outer knuckles, brakes, etc over.
You also have to source a new tie rod for Rubicon width. I think the drag link can be re-used, but I’m not certain.
Not a bad deal, but you’re getting up there in price/labor/time. Since it’s off the vehicle it would make sense to truss it too. Marginal cost is so low for that extra strength.

 

[word302]

There are tons of posts here with the info you seek. Back in the day when we had a JL Sahara I called Dana/Spycer and asked these same questions. They said 35s are fine for Mall Crawling and light off roading with the m200 and m186 axles. If you start getting into serious off roading you will eventually have problems.
That being said do not waste your money putting lockers into those axles. Drive it, wheel it, have fun with it and if they break just upgrade to D44 axles. The most I would do to those axles is put Chrome Molly shafts in them to beef them up. It's a cheap easy option.
Unless you are going to SERIOUSLY off road there is no need for D60s IMO. I've wheeled the snot out of D44s with Chrome Molly shafts in rear and RCVs up front and 38x13.5 tires with no problems. The only real reason to jump to a D60 over a D44 is if you want to go to 40" or larger tires.
To answer your last question, the M200 and M186 are way better than their D30/35 counterparts.

The majority of the off road community would disagree with you. 37s on a 44 is pushing its limits. Plenty of people blow up differentials with that setup. Can you get away with it? Sure. Is it strong enough for everyone? Far from it.

 

[Joaquim]

The majority of the off road community would disagree with you. 37s on a 44 is pushing its limits. Plenty of people blow up differentials with that setup. Can you get away with it? Sure. Is it strong enough for everyone? Far from it.

Yes but if I want to stick with 35s it is more than sufficient correct?

 

[word302]

Yes but if I want to stick with 35s it is more than sufficient correct?

Yes you’re good. Just realize you can break stuff with any size tire and any axle. The weak link of the advantek axles is the FAD cutout. Depending on what kind of wheeling you do you might consider a front axle truss.

 

[mgroeger]

The majority of the off road community would disagree with you. 37s on a 44 is pushing its limits. Plenty of people blow up differentials with that setup. Can you get away with it? Sure. Is it strong enough for everyone? Far from it.

I should mention that my front D44 is trussed and gusseted. I should also mention that I have already chipped my ring and pinion in the rear because I was bouncing and then hooked up. A lot does depending on driving style and being aware of what's going on. If you are going to jump all over the skinny pedal or punch it when your bound up in the front you are going to have trouble regardless.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

Yes but if I want to stick with 35s it is more than sufficient correct?

How you use/abuse it matters more than axle size. JK with over 200,000 miles with 37s and a D30:

She is running 40s on a D44:
https://instagram.com/rockymountain.jl?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

 

[J0E]

The majority of the off road community would disagree with you. 37s on a 44 is pushing its limits. Plenty of people blow up differentials with that setup. Can you get away with it? Sure. Is it strong enough for everyone? Far from it.

Exactly. It's not premature wear, it's breakage.

I should mention that my front D44 is trussed and gusseted.
If you are going to jump all over the skinny pedal or punch it when your bound up in the front you are going to have trouble regardless.

Trussed and gusseted has nothing to do with tire diameter, that's skinny petal help.

How you use/abuse it matters more than axle size. JK with over 200,000 miles with 37s and a D30:

Right, mild off road like those pics you can get away with it. 200K means nothing, it's not like vastly exceeding torque limits makes it wear out faster, components break as soon as you exceed torque limits.

 

[word302]

Exactly. It's not premature wear, it's breakage.



Trussed and gusseted has nothing to do with tire diameter, that's skinny petal help.



Right, mild off road like those pics you can get away with it. 200K means nothing, it's not like vastly exceeding torque limits makes it wear out faster, components break as soon as you exceed torque limits.

The grille make’s the axles twice as strong ?

 

[J0E]

Youtube How Big of Tires Can You Run on a Dana 44?

At this point in the video they say bouncing is worst case.

 

[J0E]

axles is put Chrome Molly shafts in them to beef them up. It's a cheap easy option.

It's pronounced Chrome Molly but @kah.mun.rah is upset when you spell it like that.

1. It's "chromoly". Start talking Molly and someone is going to get the wrong idea.

Quadratec prefers Chrome-Moly.

axles is put Chrome Molly shafts in them to beef them up. It's a cheap easy option.

About $1,000 for the rear. RCVs $1,400
Not exactly cheap but good insurance.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

200K means nothing, it's not like vastly exceeding torque limits makes it wear out faster, components break as soon as you exceed torque limits.

Miles do matter. Metal fatigue can occur when exceeding elastic deformation during a single event or from cycled deformation over time.

 

[kah.mun.rah]

It's pronounced Chrome Molly but @kah.mun.rah is upset when you spell it like that.

Quadratec prefers Chrome-Moly.

Yes, quadratec comments are a great source for Metallurgy. Check AISI 4130: https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/w...t=AISI 4130,-Chromoly steel is actually alloy

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